IC-ingiter KZ550B (interchanged with KZ750E)

Hi folks.
Problem is as follows: Spark plugs don't spark, battery has full power. Changed plugs-no change.

Checked resistance of coils.
Primary circuit 2.5 Ohm
Secondary circuit(with the two cables to the two plugs included) 21kOhm
This is close to the standard values of 1.2-1.9 Ohm for the primary circuit and 10.4-15.6kOhm for the secondary circuit. For the secondary circuit I don't know if they included the 5kOhm for each plug-cable so it may be within the range [11kOhm + 2*5kOhm=21kOhm])

Next checkpoint was the IC-igniter.
The handbook states serveral resistances which I measured. Some values don't match the standard so I changed the part. A #21119-1040 was built in so i looked for to replace this one
www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Kawasaki/...050-E1%29/parts.html
Partzilla states the same device (21119-1040) on another bike with a different shape and because this was easier to buy at ebay i chose to get a ic-igniter from a KZ750E

Before I want to build in this part I decided to double check its functionality...and failed
Here's the table for double-check reasons:

#### at the 2119-1040 connector to the ingition coils####
Measured (+/-)	Standard-Value	Value KZ550B	Value KZ750B
black-yellow/ black	inf	166kOhm	inf
black-yellow/ green	inf	166kOhm	inf
black/black-yellow	200-500Ohm	inf	inf
green/black-yellow	200-500Ohm	inf	inf
yellow-red/black-yellow	200-600Ohm	900Ohm	750Ohm
black-yellow/yellow-red	300-700Ohm	900Ohm	750Ohm
#### at the 1040-connector leading to the pulser-coil####
blue/black	25-45kOhm	inf	inf
black/blue	20-40kOhm	inf	inf
red/yellow	25-45kOhm	inf	inf
yellow/red	20-40kOhm	inf	inf

Underwhelming, the seller promised it would work so my question to you is:
1. Has anybody interchanged those two parts?
2. Is the handbook correct (could somebody double check his values on a working bike?)
It's easy, just remove the right side cover and measure two connectors. Would help me alot.
3. I saw some self-made ignitors here in the forum. Looked pretty easy, so maybe i should not rely on others selling _maybe_-good stuff and do it myself?

A lot of text, now some eye-candy
(or eye-cancer if one takes the poor condition of the parts into acount )

Yes, they are interchangeable, but the bigger one is older, and possibly not as reliable. Ohm tests are not reliable for measuring semiconductors. Not to mention internal construction can vary, resulting in conflicting readings from one module to another, from a different time period.

You can just test for spark by connecting the wires, and tapping the pickups. That's probably the best east test to do. Spar should easily jump 1/4" (6mm) reliably in open air.

The details for making an igniter are in my signature. The GM HEI igniter is used on many European cars as well, so maybe check some Alpha Romeo parts, maybe some English cars too.

On my site, there is also info on how to check pickup magnet orientation, in case you need to replace a pickup. Any KZ pickup that looks like yours, will work, even ones from 650, 750, 1000, and 1100 bikes.

If one coil sparks, and the other doesn't, you can swap pickups by swapping blue with red, and black with yellow, on the pickup wiring.

You should probably read the valve train warning in my signature, along with downloading all of the manuals i have there.

I've got all the parts from Loudhvx's list, but haven't gotten around to making the Aluminum heatsink and where to mount it for my bike. I've been ill for the past few days(3) a virus I think. and I'm using my wife's computer, as mine has been hit by a nasty virus that removed my operating system. Hopefully, I can get it running again.

So i simply give it a try.
I won't be online for the next days but Monday should be fine.
reporting later and thanks for ur fast help

You'll need the colored wire,heatsink compound(sometimes called thermal grease), the correct wire terminal crimping tool(don't use pliers, as they make for bad crimps), Aluminum plate, maybe a piece or 6061 about 3/16" thick(but thinner will work)a place to mount the igniter replacements, and 3/16" and 1/4" wide female push on connectors.

If you mount the resistors $ diode, encapsulate them from vibration damage using clear RTV(room temperature Vulcanizing compound) available at auto parts and most home centers.

Thanks again, i guess i will definitely rebuild a ignition as a don't rely on the old parts anymore.

I think I have a bad IC-igniter, my ignition starts to break up at around 7 grand under full throttle. Any help would help me out.
Mark

Mark Wing wrote: I think I have a bad IC-igniter, my ignition starts to break up at around 7 grand under full throttle. Any help would help me out.
Mark

If it used to rev fully at wot, and now doesn't, and assuming it's electrical...

In addition to the igniter, it could be:
1)spark plugs gapped too far (eroded with age)
2)coils failing gradually
3)plug wires and/or caps
4)voltage to the coil is dropping due to connectors or switch losses.

These problems will be worse if 3-ohm coils are used instead of stock 2.3 ohm coils.


1 is easy to check.
4 can be tested by running a wire from the battery directly to the positive side of the coils.
3 just requires physical inspection for age and condition. May be simpler to just replace. You can get wires cheap at auto parts stores. Autoone will sell single wires tat can be cut in half to make 2.
2 is harder to test. You can ohm them out to get an idea if they are bad, but cannt confirm they are good.

I use a test circuit to check coils, as that seems to be the only way to know for sure:
www.kzrider.com/forum/21-tools/561376-true-coil-tester

We should probably start a new thread so as not to jack this one... plus, I may have some paint questions for you.

Changed the parts and engine is working now.
Thanks!

Good news! This will only work for the engines with the mechanical ignition advancer.