To coil mod or not?

That is the question...

650ed wrote:

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Good one!
Much better to Fix the underlying issue with your wiring.

Just out of curiosity, why are you needing/wanting to accomplish...?

In case you're interested... or bored...
coil mod write up....

The bike I have bought has this mod done. I want to get it back to original if possible, new harness might be in the works.

geobass wrote: That is the question...

Fix the real problem instead.

I did it. This might get mixed thoughts for sure, but the bypass of the crud with a direct wire to send juice to those coils isn't a band-aid. The relay allows you to turn power on and off with your key. And that power is a direct wire form the battery. So is it a band-aid? I was getting 10.5 volts at the coils and now I get whatever the battery has roughly 12 or so. The bike fires without a choke. Imo good idea.

It's a band aid because you didn't fix the problem, you just bypassed it.

WARNING: in my 50+ years in electronics, I could not begin to count the number of bad relays I have had to replace when the points fused shut. The current arcing across the points sometimes welds them shut.

If you have that happen on your bike, it leaves you with a straight wire from the battery to the coil. That will leave you with a melted coil, dead battery, and maybe a fire if you don't see the smoke in time. :ohmy:

bountyhunter wrote: WARNING: in my 50+ years in electronics, I could not begin to count the number of bad relays I have had to replace when the points fused shut. The current arcing across the points sometimes welds them shut.

If you have that happen on your bike, it leaves you with a straight wire from the battery to the coil. That will leave you with a melted coil, dead battery, and maybe a fire if you don't see the smoke in time. :ohmy:

There is no power unless key is on.....

if it jumped over the relay terms without key on the power wire has a 10 amp fuse that would blow before a fire....

Ive ran relays on go carts, tractors and cars with no problem......

lets scare the guy abit more..... :dry:

I run it on my bike and recommend it.

I have heard allot about this coil mod in my couple of years on here bandaid shorting to potential fire. This is not quite as controversial as pods but I am still amazed at the confidence and matter of fact beliefs in the eenigineers who couldnt conceive blue tooth technology accelerometers the computer needed to process even minute portions of what an Iphone is capable were housed in climate controlled rooms as lage ar apartment building back then

with that said come on seriously the early KZ'z are not state of the art electronics with miltary tolerences bad wiring bad connections and even worse charging systems

I moved into a house built in the 20's 1 receptacle in most rooms the craftmanships was to die for oak floors hardwood studs etc... Lets face it putting a new 200 amp serevice in adding recepicles to handle todays demand on electricity is a bare minimum before overloading the wore out circuits

not saying the demand on the bikes has changed like holmes but its 30 plus years old and been exposed to 30 years of heating and cooling as you see the evolution of motocycle technology the electonics have made the largest leap sensors computers modules etc... they make more calculations per second than the 1st space shuttle the alternators have greatly improved by the higher demands but lets face it the battery really hasnt changed

I could go on for hours about the advancement in 12v technology which started by relay modifactions to exhisting equipment before design changes made them the norm. Not sure Why you want to do the mod unless the bike has a problem but repairing the real problem as they say would includ a modern higher output altenator and replacement of all wiring and switch connectors with modern parts.

Do the Mod Bandaid smandaid if it makes you feel better about the voltage to your coils

The whole point of the relay mod is to bypass the switches and connectors. If the relay contacts fuse together, the ignition switch position becomes irrelevant.

It won't blow a fuse since there is no over-current condition (and there is likely no fuse in the path anyway). The relay contacts fuse due to arcing and/or heat, but not over-current unless some other fault exists, such as a short in the wiring or the coils.