To coil mod or not?

what coil mod is the one in question, geobass?

loudhvx wrote: The whole point of the relay mod is to bypass the switches and connectors. If the relay contacts fuse together, the ignition switch position becomes irrelevant.
......

That is an important point. The ignition switch and circuitry controls the operation of the relay as long as the relay is functioning properly, but if the relay fails in the "closed" position the ignition circuitry is not going to force it open, so current will flow from the battery, through the closed relay, to the coils.

To compound the problem, the engine will still run as normal, so the rider most likely will not know this condition exists. However, since current will continue to run to the coils when the engine is shut off damage will eventually be done to the coils.

I'm not trying to be an alarmist; relays are very reliable, but they are not bullet proof. Anyone who has owned vehicles long enough has probably seen a relay fail. I have had it happen in a car and a truck; one failed in the "closed" position; one in the "open" position. Ed

Just have to LUV the Coil Mod Posts aye... :laugh:
Early Sunday morning, household still asleep and I'm bored so here goes... BTW, several of us here actually do have degrees/engineering work history in electrical/electronics....

As provided in the write up and mentioned by others in sooooooooooo many postings :pinch: :whistle: on the subject matter at hand, does it provide increased power to the coils, sometimes yes but usually not without issues still existing in other electrical circuits such as lights and charging circuits.

Case in point:
"I was getting 10.5 volts at the coils and now I get whatever the battery has roughly 12 or so."
As provided here, a 1.5Vdc increase to coils, awesome but does anyone else see a problem in this...?

Hint, 12Vdc is not to specifications, should be 13 to 14.5Vdc while running pending rpm.... Thus there's still a problem in this charging system, wiring, switches etc...
@ 12Vdc only, this battery will eventually drain for requires at least 13Vdc to keep the battery topped off in charge.

With that in mind, are the coils receiving increased power (voltage/current) yes but other circuits are still not operating to specifications henceforth you've only band aided the coil power but not the rest of the power issues most likely occurring.

Now if it works for you guys and you're happy with the results, awesome good for you...
On a perfectly operating electrical system doesn't hurt it one bit... Can it bite you if the relays latch closed, yup but if using a 10-20amp relay on the contacts or solid state relay, you'll be ok....

RIDE ON....

So maybe that is the reason the bike started to stutter above half throttle yesterday? Because it should be charging at 13 to 14.5?Carbs freshly rebuilt and points are within spec. The battery has 12.5 volts with the bike shut off.

4TheKZ1000 wrote: There is no power unless key is on.....

Nope, the "coil mod" diagrams I have seen show power straight from the battery through a fuse to the relay. The whole "advantage" is to get around the voltage drop through the wiring to the ignition switch and across the switch itself.

can't have it both ways. If you use the wiring and ignition switch, the coil mod does nothing since the voltage drops will be the same.

4TheKZ1000 wrote: Ive ran relays on go carts, tractors and cars with no problem......

If you've never had a relay fail, you should buy a lottery ticket because you're the luckiest man I ever met.

The fan control relay on my new Chevy failed eight months into it's life. Saturn has had a bagful of relays replaced over it's life.

For reference, from WGcarbs:

www.wgcarbs.com//index.php?option=com_co...sk=view&id=Itemid=89

Good Fortune!

As I said previously: the mod draws power from the battery cable attached to the starter relay main power bolt, which comes directly from the + battery terminal. Relay problem = dead battery and cooked coil. See attached schematic where I have marked with large arrow.

On one of my bikes, I use relays for an integrated brake/turn signal controller. The first place I had the relays mounted suffered from vibration. They vibrated open/closed rapidly at high RPMs.

So, this revamp of an old topic has got me thinking now, thanks. I've done this mod but it was early in my build and I was frustrated with a bad coil and some connections so in a sense, was desperate.

I have since installed a ground cut of switch with a key so no matter what the electrical failure the fault would have to find ground and then jump across my keyed switch. Does this sound safe pending a relay failure to everyone?

If the ground cutoff is only to isolate the battery, as those type of devices usually are, then under certain circumstances, the bike may continue running off of the charging system.

At high speed, this is bad since the regulator will not function properly when the battery is removed from the system. Light bulbs, coils, and other electric components have been known to melt under these circumstances.

That type of disconnect, made for batteries, will typically prevent the bike from starting, but won't prevent them from running if they are already running at high speed. But they will usually stop the motor if the motor is idling.

Thank you for the info. I do have my relay, ignitor, main ground and regulator hooked up to it. Would this help?