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Time to show off your electrical smarts
- Spudrider2511
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- MFolks
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I've heard good things about MSD ignition systems: www.msdpowersports.com/Products/Motorcyc...e-Ignition,-Digital/
For crimping tools, read this:
Wire Terminal Crimping Tools
www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination (The Good, Bad, & Ugly of Crimpers))
crimpsupply.com/
The type of solder sleeve(splice) used on Mil-Spec wiring:
(How to splice and repair wires, splicing techniques)
(Heatshrink Terminal Installation)
(Heatshrink Terminals And Connectors, AAA Protection)
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- MFolks
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Terminal Insulation Color Wire Sizes
RED
22-18 gauge wire
BLUE
16-14 gauge wire
YELLOW
12-10 gauge wire
RED
8 Gauge
The ring terminal holes comes in many sizes, from #4 up to 1/2" in most cases, it's a matter of finding the tightest fitting hole to fit the fastener for the termination.
American Wire Gauge(AWG) is backwards to what many people think; that is 22 gauge is many times smaller than 10 gauge even though the number is bigger.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- MFolks
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Soldering Information
When hand soldering wires or connections, several tools need to be in place:
1. A wire stripper that will not damage the conductor of the wire when insulation is removed.
2. Rosin core solder of 0.032" diameter and larger for soldering. (Never use Acid core solder for electrical connections as they will corrode and fail). Preferred is solder of 60/40 lead to tin ratio, SN60 or SN63 type.
3. Rosin flux to aid in cleaning the connections for a good joint.
Liquid flux has it’s advantage, but I prefer the paste Rosin flux.
4. 91% rubbing Alcohol to remove excess dried flux after soldering. 70% Alcohol may not have the ability to remove the flux like 91% Alcohol does. Acetone will also remove solder flux after soldering is completed.
5. A ½" wide small paint brush or acid brush with the bristles cut down to make a scrub brush.
6. Needle nose pliers.
7. Straight and curved hemostats to aid in handling small wires, and can also be used as heatsinks to prevent wire insulation damage.
8. A selection of different diameter heat shrink tubing to protect and insulate the soldered connections(the best are the type with an internal adhesive that melts when the tubing is shrunk, sealing the ends from moisture).
9. A wire holder to be able to position the wire(s) for correct soldering.
10. Solder removing braid (Soder Wick): www.chemtronics.com/products/product.asp?r=1&m=2&id=91
11. Solder removing procedures:
www.aaroncake.net/electronics/desolder.htm
12. Variable temperature soldering station:
www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Pa...&utm_source=googleps
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- lushbaugh
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- everybodys a pro......
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79 kz1000 ltd all apart
the best advice i can give is dont take dnthavakawmans advice..
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- martin_csr
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- Topper
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650ed wrote: I highly recommend you buy a Kawasaki Service Manual (be sure to get the one for your exact year/model bike). In it you will find instructions on how to test the various electrical (and other) systems and components. You may very well find that your electrical system is operating perfectly. Rough running can be the symptom of a variety of different problems - anything from dirty carbs, leaky carb holders, incorrect spark plug range, bad fuel, poor ignition timing, low compression, etc. etc. - the list is lengthy. The manual will serve as a tool to help you better understand the various systems on your bike and may enable you to diagnose and correct the problem. If you just throw parts at the problem without first diagnosing the cause you can spend a ton of bucks replacing things that are not broken and still not correct the problem. Ed
Permanent and perpetual noob.
1979 KZ750 Twin
2009 Kawasaki Versys
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- Spudrider2511
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- martin_csr
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- MFolks
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What came with the bike, were ignition coils that even when new were marginal, add years of cooking under the tank in the stop and go traffic, and the coils will probably fail when hot.
Replacement coils can be bought at www.z1enterprises.com I believe “Emgo” is the brand. They also carry the popular Dyna 2.2 and 3 ohm coils, along with replacement sparkplug wires.
Now, you have a choice on sparkplug wires:
1.Copper plug wires with no supression caps (the best choice, but will produce audio noise on Radio’s and TV’s). Not only do the copper core wires deliver better spark, they will also deliver a much longer lifespan - carbon core wires are prone to erratic spark delivery and early breakdown, & short lifespan.
2.Copper plug wires with supression caps (a built in 5000 ohm resistor, that can sometimes fail, like what came with the bike). These should be checked with a multimeter now and then, as heat can cause them to become intermittent.
3.Copper plug wires with no supression caps, but using resistor plugs(the “R” in the plug number).
4.Supression plug wires with no supression caps.
NEVER use resistor plugs combined with supression caps along with supression plug wires, as now there will be possibly three (3) sources of resistance in the secondary windings of the ignition coils, greatly reducing the spark energy.
Another choice is the Accel 3 ohm coils, with a similar, primary(small wire)electrical connection, using ring terminals as the Dyna ignition coils do. Whatever brand of coil you go with, make sure the primary wires will clear the mounting hardware, as the spacers come close, possibly blowing a fuse. Some riders have replaced the metal spacers with non conductive Nylon spacers, reducing the chance of an electrical problem.
7mm sparkplug wires will fit the stock ignition coils(if they have replaceable wires, indicated by screw off caps on the coils with ridges). The sparkplug wires fit into a port with a brass ”Stinger” that goes into the sparkplug wire or lead(the Brit’s. Canadians, and other countries call the sparkplug wires (“High Tension Leads”).
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- MFolks
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Using A Honda Starter In A Kawasaki
Buda from the www.kzrider.com forum wrote:
Will not turn the engine over....10.25 10 1 comp 1170 cc......took starter out and ran it with a battery....the starter spins strong but starts to squeal after a second.....also the shaft has a lot of play side to side. Bad starter I’m guessing What do you guys think?
Took the starter apart.....the bushing on the drive end is cracked
MFolks Wrote:
For a stronger starter motor, read this:
Using a Honda Mitsuba SM-220 Starter in the Kz (copied from the KZ rider website)
The CB F's used 2 different starters. Look for the one marked .8kw. They also have one that is .7kw. This owner noticed a difference when he installed his. He read that you can remove the outer housing, and rotate it. this will re-align the outer power terminal, to a better location. if you don’t do this, you will need to grind some metal from the chain cover to gain clearance. Also install a heavier gauge wire to the starter , I’d recommend 6 AWG(American Wire Gauge) welding cable with the correct terminal ends to match the treaded studs for the solenoid and starter motor. Don’t forget the cable from the battery to the solenoid.
The stock KZ starter is .6kw in size
www.stockers.com/index.php?dt=HS-29 (Mitsuba SM-220)
Buda Wrote:
Thanks MFolks, Just ordered the rebuild kit before I read your post....If that doesn't work out I'll give the Honda starter a shot.
Got a the Honda starter MFolks recommended (SM 220 12 volt 0.8 KW) on ebay...hell of a difference.....Turns over like the plugs are missing....I'm sure the new battery doesn't hurt, but its a hell of a difference.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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