Time to show off your electrical smarts

So I've got a stock 78 kz 1000 ltd that is rough. It runs, but barely. Over the winter I would like to start going through the bike and thought I would try to budget/plan for the repairs. I've searched and found advise on cleaning all the contacts and electrical connections, but what I would really like to know is what parts and coils and rectifiers and stuff I should get. for fun lets make money no option. Can you please line me out on what stuff I should be rounding up for a stock, non-hot rod KZ? I'm shooting for reliability and low maintanace, oh and not super technical.. Is there such a route for me? Please point me to threads, parts houses, anything that might help. Thanks a ton.

I highly recommend you buy a Kawasaki Service Manual (be sure to get the one for your exact year/model bike). In it you will find instructions on how to test the various electrical (and other) systems and components. You may very well find that your electrical system is operating perfectly. Rough running can be the symptom of a variety of different problems - anything from dirty carbs, leaky carb holders, incorrect spark plug range, bad fuel, poor ignition timing, low compression, etc. etc. - the list is lengthy. The manual will serve as a tool to help you better understand the various systems on your bike and may enable you to diagnose and correct the problem. If you just throw parts at the problem without first diagnosing the cause you can spend a ton of bucks replacing things that are not broken and still not correct the problem. Ed

For a very reliable charging system(rectifier & regulator), go to www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com

I've heard good things about MSD ignition systems: www.msdpowersports.com/Products/Motorcyc...e-Ignition,-Digital/


For crimping tools, read this:
Wire Terminal Crimping Tools
www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination (The Good, Bad, & Ugly of Crimpers))
crimpsupply.com/

The type of solder sleeve(splice) used on Mil-Spec wiring:



(How to splice and repair wires, splicing techniques)


(Heatshrink Terminal Installation)


(Heatshrink Terminals And Connectors, AAA Protection)

Wire Termination Insulation & Sizes

Terminal Insulation Color Wire Sizes
RED

---

22-18 gauge wire
BLUE

---

16-14 gauge wire
YELLOW

---

12-10 gauge wire
RED

---

8 Gauge

The ring terminal holes comes in many sizes, from #4 up to 1/2" in most cases, it's a matter of finding the tightest fitting hole to fit the fastener for the termination.

American Wire Gauge(AWG) is backwards to what many people think; that is 22 gauge is many times smaller than 10 gauge even though the number is bigger.

If while cleaning the right and left handlebar switch pods, you discover failed, or failing solder joints, here's some information about tools needed:

Soldering Information

When hand soldering wires or connections, several tools need to be in place:

1. A wire stripper that will not damage the conductor of the wire when insulation is removed.

2. Rosin core solder of 0.032" diameter and larger for soldering. (Never use Acid core solder for electrical connections as they will corrode and fail). Preferred is solder of 60/40 lead to tin ratio, SN60 or SN63 type.

3. Rosin flux to aid in cleaning the connections for a good joint.
Liquid flux has it’s advantage, but I prefer the paste Rosin flux.

4. 91% rubbing Alcohol to remove excess dried flux after soldering. 70% Alcohol may not have the ability to remove the flux like 91% Alcohol does. Acetone will also remove solder flux after soldering is completed.

5. A ½" wide small paint brush or acid brush with the bristles cut down to make a scrub brush.

6. Needle nose pliers.

7. Straight and curved hemostats to aid in handling small wires, and can also be used as heatsinks to prevent wire insulation damage.

8. A selection of different diameter heat shrink tubing to protect and insulate the soldered connections(the best are the type with an internal adhesive that melts when the tubing is shrunk, sealing the ends from moisture).

9. A wire holder to be able to position the wire(s) for correct soldering.

10. Solder removing braid (Soder Wick): www.chemtronics.com/products/product.asp?r=1&m=2&id=91

11. Solder removing procedures:
www.aaroncake.net/electronics/desolder.htm

12. Variable temperature soldering station:
www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Pa...&utm_source=googleps

id check wire resistance along coil power wires etc, dont do the relay mod, its a patch job imo. and a dyna s will eliminate the points and the need for constant maintenance. also like stated a quality reg rect unit is a good investment.

Your bike came stock w points ignition, so you could upgrade that to electronic ignition.

There's a lot of good how to advice being given here, but I think Ed really hit the nail on the head. Maybe you've already done some diagnostics, but as Ed says your problem may not be electrical. "Running rough" could be just about anything.

650ed wrote: I highly recommend you buy a Kawasaki Service Manual (be sure to get the one for your exact year/model bike). In it you will find instructions on how to test the various electrical (and other) systems and components. You may very well find that your electrical system is operating perfectly. Rough running can be the symptom of a variety of different problems - anything from dirty carbs, leaky carb holders, incorrect spark plug range, bad fuel, poor ignition timing, low compression, etc. etc. - the list is lengthy. The manual will serve as a tool to help you better understand the various systems on your bike and may enable you to diagnose and correct the problem. If you just throw parts at the problem without first diagnosing the cause you can spend a ton of bucks replacing things that are not broken and still not correct the problem. Ed

Genuine thanks for all the great info. MFolks - awesome write-up and the vids help a bunch. This is all food for thought. I had www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com on my list of places to shop. I'm sure that after I go through all the electrical contacts and test continuity, the electrical side of the bike will be working properly (I hope) because it functions pretty well now. I'm more wanting to know about upgrades. I've read some on Dyna coils, green wires, points swapping . . . how much better are these things than stock parts if I'm shooting for a stock bike? Should I get stock replacement parts or are the upgrades worth the investment? I'm such a newb, but I guess you learn through asking questions.

Some say the stock coils weren't that great in the first place. Not sure about that, but I recently installed green Dyna coils on my 81 KZ650 (stock elec ignition) & they are definitely an improvement.

Ignition Coils And Sparkplug Wire Choices

What came with the bike, were ignition coils that even when new were marginal, add years of cooking under the tank in the stop and go traffic, and the coils will probably fail when hot.

Replacement coils can be bought at www.z1enterprises.com I believe “Emgo” is the brand. They also carry the popular Dyna 2.2 and 3 ohm coils, along with replacement sparkplug wires.

Now, you have a choice on sparkplug wires:

1.Copper plug wires with no supression caps (the best choice, but will produce audio noise on Radio’s and TV’s). Not only do the copper core wires deliver better spark, they will also deliver a much longer lifespan - carbon core wires are prone to erratic spark delivery and early breakdown, & short lifespan.

2.Copper plug wires with supression caps (a built in 5000 ohm resistor, that can sometimes fail, like what came with the bike). These should be checked with a multimeter now and then, as heat can cause them to become intermittent.

3.Copper plug wires with no supression caps, but using resistor plugs(the “R” in the plug number).

4.Supression plug wires with no supression caps.

NEVER use resistor plugs combined with supression caps along with supression plug wires, as now there will be possibly three (3) sources of resistance in the secondary windings of the ignition coils, greatly reducing the spark energy.

Another choice is the Accel 3 ohm coils, with a similar, primary(small wire)electrical connection, using ring terminals as the Dyna ignition coils do. Whatever brand of coil you go with, make sure the primary wires will clear the mounting hardware, as the spacers come close, possibly blowing a fuse. Some riders have replaced the metal spacers with non conductive Nylon spacers, reducing the chance of an electrical problem.

7mm sparkplug wires will fit the stock ignition coils(if they have replaceable wires, indicated by screw off caps on the coils with ridges). The sparkplug wires fit into a port with a brass ”Stinger” that goes into the sparkplug wire or lead(the Brit’s. Canadians, and other countries call the sparkplug wires (“High Tension Leads”).

For a stronger starter motor in your Kz/GPz 1000/1100, read this:

Using A Honda Starter In A Kawasaki

Buda from the www.kzrider.com forum wrote:

Will not turn the engine over....10.25 10 1 comp 1170 cc......took starter out and ran it with a battery....the starter spins strong but starts to squeal after a second.....also the shaft has a lot of play side to side. Bad starter I’m guessing What do you guys think?

Took the starter apart.....the bushing on the drive end is cracked

MFolks Wrote:
For a stronger starter motor, read this:

Using a Honda Mitsuba SM-220 Starter in the Kz (copied from the KZ rider website)

The CB F's used 2 different starters. Look for the one marked .8kw. They also have one that is .7kw. This owner noticed a difference when he installed his. He read that you can remove the outer housing, and rotate it. this will re-align the outer power terminal, to a better location. if you don’t do this, you will need to grind some metal from the chain cover to gain clearance. Also install a heavier gauge wire to the starter , I’d recommend 6 AWG(American Wire Gauge) welding cable with the correct terminal ends to match the treaded studs for the solenoid and starter motor. Don’t forget the cable from the battery to the solenoid.

The stock KZ starter is .6kw in size

www.stockers.com/index.php?dt=HS-29 (Mitsuba SM-220)

Buda Wrote:
Thanks MFolks, Just ordered the rebuild kit before I read your post....If that doesn't work out I'll give the Honda starter a shot.

Got a the Honda starter MFolks recommended (SM 220 12 volt 0.8 KW) on ebay...hell of a difference.....Turns over like the plugs are missing....I'm sure the new battery doesn't hurt, but its a hell of a difference.