the key inside my starter keeps breaking

my starter key keeps breaking in my 1976 kz900z1. i have spent over 2,000 dollars in trying to fix it but that key never lasts longer than a month i have replaced the key 5 times and the starter twice, so what do i do?

KZ_900_Z1 wrote: my starter key keeps breaking in my 1976 kz900z1. i have spent over 2,000 dollars in trying to fix it but that key never lasts longer than a month i have replaced the key 5 times and the starter twice, so what do i do?

Hello, Z_900_Z1, and WELCOME to KZrider!

Until better advice comes along, here's an excerpt from the FSM.




Good Fortune!

I've heard of people lapping the crank nose and then applying red loctite. Some of the high compression, big-bore push button dragbikes are done like this.

I think Mark has similar issues on his bike.

Later, Doug

KZ_900_Z1 wrote: my starter key keeps breaking in my 1976 kz900z1. i have spent over 2,000 dollars in trying to fix it but that key never lasts longer than a month i have replaced the key 5 times and the starter twice, so what do i do?

Did this issue already exist when the bike was acquired?
Or was everything okay until the issue unexpectedly occurred?

What repairs have been attempted, other than replacing the key?

Is the keyway in good condition, or wallowed out?

What other parts have been replaced underneath the alternator cover?

Does the same shop keep supposedly repairing it over and over, and how do they diagnose the issue?

Good Fortune!

The correct WOODRUFF KEY Part No. 92038-001 should be available at any Kawasaki dealership.

And is also listed at Z1E
Click > www.z1enterprises.com/ListItems.aspx?keywords=92038-001

Good Fortune!

I would imagine the thicker rubber piece would cause the woodruff to shear.

If the rubber dampener is to thick, the starter clutch gear won't freewheel. That would be your first clue its to thick. It would sound like the starter staying engaged, as it would be.

The procedure for correct fit is to use a piece of clay and place it behind the flywheel/stator magnet and tighten the parts down to specs and then remove the parts and measure the thickness of the clay.

Just trying to help out without digging out the manual.

After working on the newer design 1000 engines I found this procedure to be a pain on the 900 engines. Roy

What does the tappered portion of the crankshaft look like? Is it scored from the rotor spinning on it? I had a similar problem and used some emery cloth to smooth the crank and put red lock tight on the shaft. It has worked so far.

BINGO.

this is actually more common than u may think. i believe that is why Ma kawi changed the crank design in 77.

the 73 to 76's had a small 6mm (18ftlbs.)bolt holding the stator on and the woodriff key. the 77 on up use a large bolt that torques on at 105 ft lbs. even some of the j models had problems.
the key can sheer and when the stator spins on the crank, it can damage the matting surfaces. if the mating surfaces of the crank and stator r not near perfect, they will NEVER LOCK together as they should. u can try to repair it by using lapping compound, but i have never been successful with it. the only way i have over come a scored crank, is to have the crank end changed or replace the crank. also replace the stator if it has any scoring, u dont want to ruin another crank.
Hope this helps.

the only time i have ever had e a woodruff key sheer off is when it was not torqued up correctlly...

I wonder if there is a recall on those, mine seems to make a grinding noise after sitting for a little while when I restart the engine.