Hot fuse problem.

Ya the issue at hand is a hot fuse. I don't think my meter is bad as it's new this is literally the first time it's been used. I'll do the battery test when I get home. So do you think I should just replace the fuse box first with the blade style to see if that fixes my problem?

I respectfully disagree with Ron. Running too much voltage through a fuse can cause it to get hot. If the voltage is higher than it should be, current's going to increase, and it'll get hot. That's how fuses work, when they get too hot they pop, whether or not 17 volts is enough of an overage to cause a notable increase in heat, I'm less sure, but it's a problem that should be corrected either way.

I'd start with the reg/rec, because you need to do it anyways. Then if the hot fuse issue persists, I'd start considering swapping the box. Do check the clips on it like Ron says though, bad connections there can cause it to heat up.

Thanks for all the help. I think I will do both. The strange thing is the fuse gets hot with the ENGINE OFF. When I turn the key on its fine but when I switch on the head light on is when it gets HOT rather the engine is running or not.

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Del_Herring wrote: I respectfully disagree with Ron. Running too much voltage through a fuse can cause it to get hot. If the voltage is higher than it should be, current's going to increase, and it'll get hot. That's how fuses work, when they get too hot they pop, whether or not 17 volts is enough of an overage to cause a notable increase in heat, I'm less sure, but it's a problem that should be corrected either way.

I'd start with the reg/rec, because you need to do it anyways. Then if the hot fuse issue persists, I'd start considering swapping the box. Do check the clips on it like Ron says though, bad connections there can cause it to heat up.

I disagree with your disagreement. One thing I know it's fuses. I've been in the electronics repair business for 33 years. A fuse is just a filiment wire of a certain diameter to safely pass a certain current. Go above that current and the filiment burns open and you have a bad fuse. You could flow 20A through a 20A fuse for eternity and it will barely be warm to the touch until you go above the amp rating and at some point it will open. Still this entire time the fuse is never hot to the touch. The only time a fuse ever runs hot is when the clips are making poor contact to the fuse. There is zero other possibility. However it's a very easy thing to verify 100%. You have a meter, it probably measures DC amps. Most measure 10A DC. You can remove the fuse and hook your meter up set to DC amps, one lead to each fuse clip, measure what current the mororcycle is drawing. I assume we are talking the main 20A fuse here and across the terminals you will be drawing less than 10A. This is 1/2 or more what the fuse is rated for. No way in this world excess volts can bump the amps to 20A or more, only way to draw 20A or more is a wire shorted to the frame, then in this case you get the standard blown fuse, not a heating of the fuse ever. I see the same problem commonly on plasma TVs that generally have 8A fuses and replacing the fuse clips will fix an overheating fuse every time.

I would just change the reg and then if necassary change the fuse block. All i know is 14-15v is to high for the bike not running.

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Thanks guys!!! I orderd the rec/reg combo from z1 Im gonna whate for it to arrive than order the blade fuse box from CWS . I did a check on my fuse box with my fuse out and ignition on and the pic shows what I have. Let me know what you think. Thanks!!!! Paul

Voltage might drop when passing between the main fuse clips, but there are several other connections and switches after the main fuse where voltage may be dropping before reaching the ignition coil.




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