The bike won't start

The carbs are cleaned, so don't think thats the issue. Maybe the jets were changed, but I doubt it since it backfired and only ran with choke. Hmm.. And I hooked up both the vacuum hose from the intake and fuel-hose to the right place, so that shouldn't be the problem either. Filter is installed inside the air box.

I checked plug #1 and #4 though. #1 was completely dry black. #4 was dry black as well but the tip was kind of grayish, but everything else on the spark plug was black. The thing is though the bike started easily without any problems earlier today when I had the POD-filters on, so it shouldn't be the spark plugs, or?

When you try to start it - Choke on, fuel on, ignition on, kill switch in "Run" position, clutch lever pulled in, do not touch the throttle. Ed

Tried that several times - no go!

You didnt by chance have the plug wires off?

Only for #1 and #4. Not the others.

Would assure ignition coils are wired correctly.



Would assure valve clearances are within specs.
Backfiring through carb may result from a too tight intake valve that's failing to completely seal when supposedly closed.

Good Fortune!

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Good Fortune!

Alright. I will check the spark plug wires, and then get back to you. Appreciate all help from you guys!

Is valve-adjustment a mechanics job? I have adjustet valves on a Yamaha XT 500 before, but on that one I just had to adjust a screw to get valves right. On the Z650 it seems to be shims that must be replaced, dismantle cam. etc.

Alright.. So Im sitting here kind of frustrated.

For about an hour ago I went to my local dealer to buy new spark plugs. Came back home and installed the spark plugs. Pushed the starter button, and there was no go.. I was literally about to set the whole bike on fire of frustration, but then I came to my senses and dismantled the tank to start on the valves.. Suddenly I realized that the "Switched battery voltage" wire to the right side coil was off... Then I felt something very likely to hope! I hooked the tank up again and pushed the starter button. The bike started to ignite!!!!! Did not start though, even though it sounded like it was about to... I was able to push the starter for about 6-7 seconds, and then the battery suddenly died..... "%#%&!!!%#4&!!!!!!!!
So now I have hooked up the battery to the charger, and will give it a go again about an hour. Hopefully it will start then....

So my question is... Even though I will get an answer to this the next hour... Do these bikes need full battery voltage to be able to start? Im very impatience, so an hour seems like a year....

It dosent need FULL voltage, However you need at least 10 or 11 volts.

Have you checked what Jet sizes are in the carbs? If the PO had gone to Pod's, then he would have been trying to re-jet. Now keep in mind that just because a number is stamped on a jet, it doesn't mean that the jet has not been drilled.
Also check the fuel level with the clear tube method, this is really important for proper carb function.
Compression test, if you have a low cylinder, tight valve it will show up. Adjusting the valves, yes the cams would need to be pulled to change shim sizes as the shims are under the cam follower bucket/ tappet. The service manual shows how, and while you want to make sure to get the cams back correctly, it is not that hard to do if you are reasonably mechanically inclined. z1enterprises.com will have shims and gaskets.

marcus91 wrote: ...Is valve-adjustment a mechanics job?....

It is relatively simple to measure the valve clearances in order to determine whether or not they are within spec.
• Remove fuel tank and valve cover and points cover;
(Note that each valve has its own separate cam);
(The flat surface under each cam is the bottom of a bucket over the valve stem);
Don't loosen either camshaft;
• Hand rotate the crankshaft by turning the 17 mm nut under the points cover (don't use the smaller 13 mm bolt head) and point the cam directly away from the valve to be measured, which position affords the largest clearance for that particular valve;
• Use a thickness gauge (feeler gauge) to measure the clearance -- also known as gap or space -- existing underneath the cam (between the cam and the bucket);
Would keep a written memo as to the measured clearance of each valve, and the mileage shown on the odometer.

It may be that the valve clearances are all within spec, whereby the measuring job is concluded, and then re-assemble, using a new valve cover gasket if needed. There are separate threads here on KZrider about assembly techniques to avoid oil leakage from the valve cover.

If a particular valve's clearance is insufficient or too large, it indicates that the "shim" located under the bucket is the wrong size and needs to be replaced with a proper size shim.

Changing a shim is known as "adjusting" the valve clearance, which is more involved than the "measuring," because the camshaft must be loosened on some models to allow removal of the bucket for access to the shim (remove the existing shim, determine its size, and replace it with another shim of the needed size).

On other Kawasaki models such as the large fours, the shims are located on top of the buckets, where they are visible under the cams. The camshafts need not be loosened to remove and replace such shims; however, a special tool is required.

Good Fortune!