charging issue

so my battery keeps dying, i charged it today and checked the voltage as i held the revs to 3k, came up to 12.3, should i check the reg rec first or stator? i know how to check the stator at ac volts and i have a used spare reg just tryin to save leg work

Check for the AC out of the Yellows coming from the stator. 2 yellows, single phase you should get 75ACV. 3 wires three phase, should be 56 ACV out of any pair of the three.

lushbaugh wrote: so my battery keeps dying, i charged it today and checked the voltage as i held the revs to 3k, came up to 12.3, should i check the reg rec first or stator? i know how to check the stator at ac volts and i have a used spare reg just tryin to save leg work

Am recalling installation of reg/rec under battery box as a minor pita.

Rather than unbolt the reg/rec, could unplug it and patch in the spare for a repeat voltage check at 3000 rpm.
Am uncertain if reg/rec body must be bolted on to ground against chassis, so could use temporary wire with alligator clips to connect spare to chassis (instead of bolting it to chassis).

Same 12.3 would improve odds of reg/rec being okay.

Good Fortune!

If your reg/rect has a black ground wire as one of its main wires, the reg/rect case doesnt have to be grounded, if it doesnt, ground it(and not to electrical carrier plate that is rubber mounted, pick a good frame ground or batt. negative.
A/C testing stator wires will increase A/C voltage as you rev motor, maybe around 35 volts low rpm and increasing to 70-90 per leg.

Check each stator wire to ground also with ohm meter, they should all be very close to same ohms.
Reg/rect has an ohm test procedure. Voltage flows one way and not the other. Also, if you look at the back of the rectifier, look for melted or burn plastic where they seal it. Often you'll see a black crusty hole(that sounded bad) if it has burnt a one way diode.

i checked the stater with resistance and replaced the reg. still draws the batt down, i even refilled the acid and charged it. i dont know what to do im pissed.

Used this method of troubleshooting to see if there's a intermittent short/drain in the bikes electrical system:

The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!


Here is the most basic method I know(Taken from www.kzrider.com by member Patton)

1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.

2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one. Just 1, not both!

3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.

4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.

5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go off/stop buzzing.

6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).

7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.

8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.

9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).

10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.

11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.

12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.

quick update for anyone with similar problems, stator had a nag leg, only pushing 3v ac. so anyone know if a j model kz750 stator will work?

What's voltage across battery posts at 3000 rpm?

Good Fortune!

www.customrewind.com
www.rmstator.com Are two places to ask about having your stator rewound.

Have a look at this old KZR thread in the Archives: kzrider.com/archive/viewthread.php?tid=28294
Thanks OnkelB for the post.

If Vac output is to spec and unless your rect/reg is not putting out ~ 13-14.5Vdc....
Poor ground (rec/reg) throughout charging circuit is most likely your culprit...

With key in off position, battery still be loaded down thus discharging, then have a partial short somewhere... Follow the advice what Mfolks gave you...

Maybe these will help

Ohms Law & KZ electrical-theory ....

electrical-faultfinding

Ohm's law is good info.

Here's Ed's law on electricity:



Be careful.