won't charge after four day vacation

Hi guys. New owner of an 81 kz 1000 ltd.... Just got it out the shop... New starter, starter clutch , alternator rotor , rode great for a week then i parked it for four days and now it isn't charging. Would the stator just go out like that? Just dropped 1000 into it... Im broke please help!!!

Go to this website for troubleshooting:
www.electrosport.com/technical-resources.../fault-finding-guide

And here's a testing procedure I wrote up:

Alternator Testing For the Older 4’s(Z1’s,Kz 900’s, Kz1000’s,Kz1100’s ,GPz1100’s
And possibly the 750’s).

To check to see if the alternator is working you need to follow these simple steps:

1. Fully charge the battery as this will be the power source during this test.

2. Disconnect the Regulator/Rectifier at the plug that has the six wires in it.

3. Start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature.

4. If you're worried about overheating, position a large fan for cooling the engine.

5. After the engine has reached operating temperature, have a helper assist you, and using a multi-meter, read the output at the three yellow wires (or the alternator output wires)at the disconnected connector.

6. Raise the engine speed to 4000 rpm, and see what the three YELLOW wire combinations(or any alternator output wires) are(1-3, 2-3 & 1-2). The output will be around 50 Volts A.C.(Alternating Current). BE CAREFUL, AS THERE IS A SHOCK HAZARD HERE!!

7. If any of the combinations are low or non-existent, the stator(wire windings) are bad and must be replaced. Some of the older Z1’s and KZ900’s were reported to be phase sensitive, so check the wire colors carefully.

8. Using an multimeter set on OHMS, Check the three wire combinations again, looking for a reading of 0.36-0.54 OHMS. If the readings are above or below, the stator may be bad and need replacement. Also check from any of the three YELLOW wires to ground, this will show if arcing took place. Check only with the engine off !!

9. Before ordering a new stator, check the connections from the stator as there are electrical "Bullet" connectors that may be damaged or dirty. Inspect the wiring for signs of shorting or overheating too. www.z1enterprises.com sells replacement rubber grommets for the alternator output wiring, they get hard and could leak oil after a while.

10. Check the wiring coming out of the grommet as there have been situations where the wires were damaged causing a short(I.E. twisted together with insulation damage).

11. The sprocket cover will have to be removed to access the electrical connectors coming from the alternator, the left foot peg assembly and shifting lever will have to come off also.





Alternator Stator Replacement On the Older 4’s
Source for replacement Stators

A. www.electrosport.com/technical-resources.../fault-finding-guide
B. www.customrewind.com
C. www.rmstator.com
D. www.regulatorrectifier.com
E. www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com (Rectifier/ Regulators Only)

1. If by testing either by checking the output voltage from the stator or by using and ohmmeter for resistance and the stator is determined to be bad, replacing the stator is not a difficult job.

2. The motorcycle owner should have on hand a replacement alternator gasket as it will tear on removal and leak if reused.

3. Put the bike on the center stand if possible and lean it to the right to minimize the oil volume that could come out when the alternator cover is removed.

4. Have selection of Metric wrenches and sockets along with Metric Allen keys to be able to accomplish this repair. ¼" and 3/8" ratchets and extensions may be needed along with Allen bits.

5. Remove the gear shift lever, the sprocket cover and possibly the left foot peg assembly.

6. A catch pan for what little oil will be lost should be positioned under the alternator on the left side. Newspapers will soak up any oil lost or some kitty litter will do as an absorbent.

7. Remove the alternator cover fasteners, some bikes use a socket head cap screw(Allen type) and others use the Phillips head type, the #3 screwdriver bit fits best for those. Use a small dish or can to collect the removed fasteners from the parts to prevent loss/damage.

8. The alternator stator is secured to the inside of the cover usually with three Allen headed bolts, Some bikes may have Torx style fasteners(looks like a star), Remove them and disconnect the three yellow wires that have bullet connectors on them from the bundled wires inside the sprocket cover.

9. If your bike has some color other than yellow for the alternator output wires, make note of what goes where as the older Kawasaki’s were phase sensitive in regard to the regulator/rectifiers.

10. When installing the replacement stator, clock or position the output wires and grommet so they fit into the small port under the alternator cover without being pinched or damaged.

11. Tighten the three Allen or Torx fasteners, securing the replacement stator to the cover. I like using the BLUE Loctite # 242 for hardware that can be removed with hand tools.

12. Remove the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the alternator cover and engine case by scraping with a piece of sharpened plastic like Lexan or Plexi-glass as these will not gouge the soft Aluminum Cases. Avoid using a metal gasket scraper for this.

13. Position the alternator cover, checking for pinched wiring and install the fasteners with a little silver anti-seize on the threads, tightening to the correct torque.

14. Connect up the output wires to the mating female bullet connectors and while you’re in there, check the routing of the wire bundle that runs through there.

15. Inspect for signs of heat damage to the wire insulation and vibration damage too.

16. The side stand switch, neutral switch, and oil pressure switch wiring are all bundled with the alternator output wiring running above and behind the engine output sprocket. This bundle runs in a channel as it goes up toward the various electrical connections.

17. The regulator/rectifier plug on the 80’s bikes usually has six wires in it:

A. One (1)WHITE with RED stripe, this is the bikes main power wire usually 12 gauge in size.

B. One(1) smaller Brown wire, probably 18 gauge or so, the voltage sense wire for the regulator/rectifier, helps keeping it from overcharging the battery.

C. One(1) BLACK with YELLOW stripe wire, part of the ground circuits, maybe 16 gauge in size.

D. Three(3) YELLOW wires, maybe 14 gauge in size, the alternator output wires going to the regulator/rectifier which converts the Alternating Current(A.C.) to Direct Current(D.C.) using rectification, producing the power to run the motorcycle and charge the battery.

18. Reinstall the sprocket cover, again checking for pinched wires before tightening. Install the shifter on it’s splined shaft checking for proper location, and the left side foot peg assembly.

19. Except for the minor oil spill and reluctant fasteners, it’s not a very difficult job to do.

If you don't know for sure yet that it's the alternator causing the problem. My first step would be to get the battery tested. It isn't necesarily common, but I've seen batteries just quit before, and the testing is free. Bring it by an auto-parts store or a wal-mart, and they can charge test it. If that's not the problem, just listen to MFolks. As a plus, when they test the battery, if it is good, they'll have it charged as well, so step one of his test is completed for you.

MFolks gave you a good write up. Most stators that are fried will ground out normally. When it happens you can put an ohm meter between each yellow stator terminal and ground if any of the 3 are showing flow, its fried.
I had a 81LTD years ago. If batt is good and stator shows good, most likely rectumfrier.

If you don't have the Service manual, you can download one from the link in my signature.
So do you have a DVOM? Digital Volt Ohm Meter? If so all of the tests are in the service manual. If not your gonna have trouble figuring it out.
These bikes suffer from overcharging also. There is a 6 wire Regulator/ Rectifier for the charging system. The small brown colored wire is the voltage sense wire, if it has resistance in its circuit, it will see a lower voltage. Then it will make up the difference. So you could end up boiling dry a battery, as well as popping some bulbs. Just something to be aware of.
Start by checking the connections, behind the left hand side cover and under the seat near the fuse panel, and battery connections. The electrical connector holder on the left side, can have wires pinched behind it also. make sure that all fuses are good, not just by sight but that voltage flows through, and should not have a drop in voltage.

Yea. I work on cars so im not totally in the dark here... With a jump box it fires right up and puts out about 10v and rises with the rpms as it should just not nearing 14v at all. 11.2 usually... So it is charging and as long as its being ridden will sustain itself but isn't even putting enough juice back into the battery to even start back. the battery is brand new also. Important putting a charge on it in the shop right now....

Open up the sprocket cover & look at the yellow wiring coming out of the alternator grommet, this is the output going to the rectifier/regulator. If one of the three phases has a bad connection, or is burned, this could be why your not charging the battery. Look too at the main fuse connector, and the one going to the rectifier/regulator for burned pins in the connectors.

i would check the wiring like already stated could be a wire.Could be a dead leg on the alternator like mine was. 11.2 is low, should be higher. I also replaced the three wires because they looked bad shape, charging great now tho.

Whatever you do, dont jump your bike off a running car or truck, they can spike 50-100 amps through your bike system and fry things. If you jump off a vehicle, make sure the vehicle is NOT running when you do. Jumper boxes can be dangerous also, careful with the high amps.

ok. took the side cover off... checked all connections, cleaned all connections, our multimeter is evidently broken so i couldnt check the resistance or amp output. put everything back together and it worked fine. rode around last night, went to lunch today and on the way back i noticed it started missing.. like it wasnt firing all the cylinders... got home cut it off and again, wouldnt start. everything appears to be fine. also thanks so much for that service manual... incredible. thanks for your guys helping... this is my first bike and it has just been one thing after another....i may just replace the stator coils and the regulator anyway. i found them for about 60 bucks a piece.... im at a loss for time money and patience at this point. im thinking about just selling it and starting with something newer. i almost certainly wont be able to get my money back though especially if it isnt charging.

If you disconnected or moved wires, and now it charged, I'd think you may have a broken wire or two inside the insulation, or possible bad crimps on the male or female pins in the connector going the the rectifier/regulator.

You'll need a multimeter for continuity and voltage checks. Can you borrow one from a friend for this testing? Radio Shack Stores,Sears,Home Depot, and Lowes all sell basic multimeters.

If you don't know how to use a multimeter, watch this:

The Best Mutimeter Tutorial

The robotroom mentioned the VC97 digital multimeter (do an internet search for multimeter reviews).
I got one about a year ago on ebbaayy for <$30 shipped. So far, so good.
The RSR MS8268 mentioned in the article might be a better one to get (among others).