kz1000 no power

The button assembly is made up of a backing plate with a wire coming off it inside, then the spring sits on top of the backing plate. The button itself has a brass contact in the button. When pushed the buttons brass contact pushes and connects the circuit by touching the backing plate. When you put the screw driver in there, you touched the handle bar or switch housing and blew your fuse.
If you connect the 2 contacts on the backing plate it should spin the starter.
Often the push button and backing plate get really corroded and need to be thoroughly cleaned and greased to prevent more corrosion.
Hope that helps.

Should have the new rh switch on monday. Any advice on taking off the throttle cables? I read the book and know i need to losen the cables. After that how do I get the cables off? It looks like a tube that the throttle cables are in. Do the cables connect to this tube or do I push the tube out one side and turn it sideways to get it out?

Sorry for these dumb questions just trying to make this as smooth as possible.

Thank you for all of your guys help so far

All good man. Its easier usually to lift your gas tank and disconnect one throttle cable from the carb bracket. You shouldnt have to totally disconnect it from carbs, Your just looking for slack to open the switch after screws removed. With the adjusters on the cables you can add more slack also.

The cables do connect into the throttle pipe on the rt, handlebar and then you can disconnect them.
Cheers

Alright new problem since bike got wet. I started the bike and ran it after it got wet. Drove it around for about 10 min parked it. The next day I started it with the kick start it ran for about 20 seconds and died out. Since then I have not been able to restart. I rigged the starter button so I can crank. I pulled the far left and far right spark plugs and am seeing no spark? What gave way during the 20 seconds it was idling?

The bike cranks hard

Do you have ignition points, or the Kawasaki supplied electronic ignition? To find out, remove a CD sized right engine cover. If the points are there, they might be stuck together, or need cleaning & regapping, plus setting the dwell.

Post back on what you've found...

If your bike has the electronic ignition system, the pick up or pulsing coils(not the ignition coils under the tank)may be going bad.

To check them, follow these steps:

Ohm Checking Pickup(Pulsing) Coils

The pickup(Pulsing) coils on the Kawasaki’s with the factory supplied electronic ignition can sometimes fail or become intermittent due to heat and vibration.

1.Trace back from where the pick up coils are mounted,(BEHIND A RIGHT SIDE, CD SIZED COVER) locate and disconnect a small 4 pin connector. Using a multi-meter set on OHMS and range of 2K, check between the BLUE and BLACK wires(#1 and #4 sparkplug wires) for between 360- 540 OHMS.

2.For #2 and #3 sparkplugs the wire colors will be YELLOW and RED, again 360-540 OHMS. The 550’s,650’s & 750’s may be backwards to the Z1’s,Kz900’s,Kz1000’s & Kz1100’s.

3.If the pickup coils are suspect of failing due to heat, they can be stressed using a hair dryer without the need of the engine running.

4.A replacement set of pickup coils might be obtained from a dealer who serviced the police Kawasaki’s.

5. If replacement pickup coils are not available, your next choice would be to order a Dyna “S” electronic ignition system from www.z1enterprises.com It replaces the IC igniter with a smaller module located where the mechanical ignition advancer was mounted.

6. Checking with Kawasaki.com website has determined that the Pick up(pulsing) coils are available . The pulsing coil # is 59026-1133 and replaces the older # 1002, 1012 which were used from the MKII motors until the 2005 P24.

7.Check the small 4 pin connector that the pickup coils connect to for corrosion/loose pins too.

I am not seeing a cd sized tray? I have the book and have not seen anything in there about points with a 1980kz1000. Through reading this forum I did find that 1 and 4 would be on the same coil. Going to try to get to 2 or 3 spark plug and see if that sparks? Any better description of where the tray would be located?

no spark to the inside cylinders either. I am guessing the gas tank is going to have to come off. Am i correct in that assumption?

ok after starring for a bit i realized what you were talking about. It could have hit me in the face. When i took the plate off I have two black rectangles with wires coming from them. Guessing these are not points. If i would take the three screws off(cant on way to tight) there is a spring behind it.

My boat has points and nothing i saw looked like points after pulling the cover off. It i need to go one layer deeper let me know. I will have to put some penetrating oil on the screws to get them off.

Those would be the electronic ignition pick up coils(or what Kawasaki calls, pulsing coils). They work along with the IC Igniter(it's usually a small, heatsink finned device) to provide the grounds to the ignition coils, producing the spark.

Testing Kawasaki Ignition Coils For Input Voltage

When voltage testing Kawasaki Ignition Coils, the following needs to be done:

1. Remove the fuel/gas tank to access the coils.

2. Fully charge the battery.

3. Using a multimeter, set it up for VDC(Volts, Direct Current), range of 20.

4. Turn on the ignition switch and the run/stop switch to “Run”(on the right handlebar switch "Pod").

5. Put the multimeter’s RED probe on where the red or red/yellow wire goes on the ignition coil.

6. Put the multimeter’s BLACK probe on either the battery Negative(-) post/terminal or a good frame ground.

7. You should be able to see battery voltage at the ignition coil connection, but this depends on the current draw of other items in the same circuit.

8. If the tested voltage is down to 8-9 volts, you probably need to clean the many and various electrical connectors.

9. To check the spark output at the sparkplugs, use these:

Ignition Spark Testers
www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?pr...ivision=1&category=8
www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?pr...ivision=1&category=8 Instead of grounding the sparkplug with the sparkplug wire attached, looking for a spark. This method puts the IC Igniter and ignition coils at risk of failure due to high currents, and possible internal shorting.


Another step for to do:

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

1. Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website. It can be purchased at most Radio Shack Stores or any electronic supply places. Or use any plastic safe electrical contact cleaner(NOT WD-40 !).

2. On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

3. Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

4. However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach. Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

5. Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

6. Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

7. Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

8. If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

9. The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start. The older Kawasaki’s have reports of the soldered connections crumbling, if your bike has this problem, just ask, as I’ve got a repair procedure for this.

10. Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

11. The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

12. If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you, along with boating supply stores.

13. Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting). I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

14. All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt

15. Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.

16. If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation. Inspect all heavy duty battery cables and the smaller wire terminations(Bullet Connectors), for failed crimps, and those used in the electrical connectors, as they can fail over time.

17. Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

18. The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

20. The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

21. Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

22. Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........

“I spent a weekend going through every electrical connection and switch on the bike with a little scotchbrite pad and DeOxit - what a difference! Everything was brighter, gauge backlights, indicator lights, turn signals, I was getting a nicer spark, it fired up quicker, etc. Well worth my time. WELL worth it! “

From a forum member at www.kzrider.com





Why WD-40 Should Not Be Used On Motorcycle Electrical Items.

For many years, I was proponent of the use of WD-40 on fuse clips, fuses, switches and connectors. After hearing of other peoples experience with intermittent and sporadic activity, I shrugged it off as maybe they did something wrong in the application of the product.


It wasn’t until the time I rode my 1982 GPz1100 B2 model to downtown San Diego that I encountered the problems others had gone through.

After concluding my business downtown, I walked to where my bike was parked, turned the key to unlock the forks, and prepared to start the engine. The key was in the "On" position, yet I had no lights in the dash panel, the fuel pump was not running(I have FI), and the horn and tail light were not working.


Puzzled as to why nothing electrical was happening, I remember my earlier conversations about how WD-40 will over time become a non-conductor(more like an insulator). I had some pieces of 400 and 600 grit sandpaper in my tool kit and with them was able to scratch away the coating from the WD-40 on the fuses and clips.

After removing the insulating film, the bike started and ran like it should. Since that time, I’ve told people about the problem with WD-40. If you must use a contact cleaner, I recommend getting some "De-oxit" from Radio Shack Stores or any good electronic supply store.

I am doubting it being the coils as I dont have spark on all four coils. This happend after it ran for about 20 seconds.

When you talk about the grease are you mainly talking about all of the plugs?

Some people use the Di-electric grease as a water proofer for the electrical connectors and switches.But not on the sparkplugs.

Remove the gas tank, and then trace back from the ignition coils to where the voltage comes from, usually the run/stop switch on the right handlebar. It might be RED, or RED with YELLOW stripe.

The older Kawasaki's are suffering failed solder joints, actually crumbling, so open up the right switch pod, or replace the entire assembly if you don't feel confident in doing a solder joint repair if it's found bad.