1980 KZ250 Blowing Main Fuse

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08 Aug 2012 19:00 - 08 Aug 2012 19:01 #541435 by theantichris
1980 KZ250 Blowing Main Fuse was created by theantichris
Long time reader, first time poster.

I have a 1980 kz250, the bike has been running amazing for the past 6 months, untill this past weekend. I was on my way home from the beach on the hottest day of the year it was (28c) and hit traffic. Sat in traffic moving very slowly for about an hour. As soon as I get an opening to get out of traffic, I give the bike some gas to pick up some speed and help cool things down and I lose all power, and my dash lights go out. No starter, no neutral, no nothing. After letting the bike cool down a bit and checking under the seat I discovered that my main fuse blew. Luckily I had a spare 20a fuse so I toss it in, and the bike fires right up, My girlfriend jumps on the back and we continue our way home. After maybe 10 blocks, the bike dies again, same symptoms so I immediately check the fuse and once again blow. So I throw in the 10a headlight fuse as at this point I just want to get the bike home. Turn it on, it runs maybe a min and blows that fuse. Frustrated I take a walk and let the engine cool down even further, take the 10a tailight fuse that remains and through it in, the bike fires up and I make it home.

Now the bike has sat for 2 days, I went to Canadian Tire and picked up some new fuses, replace all the blown ones and put another spare 20a in for safety. I go to drive to meet my gf for lunch (about 5km's away) and just as I'm pulling up to her work, the bike dies again, another blown fuse. Today is much much cooler (only about 19-20) so I'm starting to rule out engine temperature as a cause of this. I'm not too sure what the cause of this would be and so far locating an valid repair manual has been difficult. I've found manuals online, but they don't seem to refer to my bike as a lot of the ones I've found have been 2 cylinder 250's and mine is a single.

Any suggestions or recommendations would be great. I've been in love with the bike untill this point, and now I'm starting to regret the purchase. Its hard enough finding these glass fuses, what are other parts going to be like when it comes their time.

SYD - 1980 KZ 250
Last edit: 08 Aug 2012 19:01 by theantichris. Reason: spelling

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08 Aug 2012 19:47 #541440 by JR
Replied by JR on topic 1980 KZ250 Blowing Main Fuse
You have a short circuit somewhere in the wiring. When I had the same problem I had to go through the wiring inch by inch - after pushing the beast a km home. I took the gas tank and side panels off and looked at every piece of wireing I could find. I eventually found the problem in that snakes nest of wiring behind the headlight. A piece of electrical tape - blame the previous owner - on a connection had fallen off and bare wiring was intermittently grounding on the metal headlight shell. A proper connection and heat shrink tubing fixed the problem

Stick around. I'm sure somebody posted a step by step how to find a short.

Good luck

1980 kz750E1, Delkevic exhaust

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08 Aug 2012 21:31 #541461 by theantichris
Replied by theantichris on topic 1980 KZ250 Blowing Main Fuse
Thanks for the quick reply, after doing some research, I came to the same conclusion of having a short somewhere. I'll start by looking around the headlight for exposed wires, to see if a similar wire is exposed for me. The bike is a bike of a frankenstein as the previous owner restored it with a lot of what I'm now seeing are generic ebay parts, hopefully it just the short.

If anyone can make any recommendations to common places these bikes tend to get shorts that would be great, and once the weather improves I'll get out there and start taking it apart

SYD - 1980 KZ 250

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08 Aug 2012 21:33 #541463 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic 1980 KZ250 Blowing Main Fuse
The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!


Here is the most basic method I know(Taken from www.kzrider.com by member Patton)

1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.

2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one. Just 1, not both!

3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.

4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.

5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go off/stop buzzing.

6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).

7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.

8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.

9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask).

10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.

11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.

12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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08 Aug 2012 21:37 #541464 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic 1980 KZ250 Blowing Main Fuse
You might have to open up the handlebar switches, as some of the older Kawasaki's are suffering failed or failing solder joints.

Read this for a primer on hand soldering: technologyinterface.nmsu.edu/fall97/electronics/solder.html

Repairing Motorcycle Soldered Connections on the older bikes.

When repairing soldered wires on motorcycle switches or light bulbs sockets, have the following on hand:

1. A 25 Watt soldering iron or one that the wattage can be adjusted.

2. Rosin core solder of 60/40 type. SN60 or SN63 is preferred.

3. Rosin flux or soldering paste (Never use solder or soldering paste designed for plumbing work, as it contains an acid that will corrode the electrical joint, ruining it).

4. 91% rubbing Alcohol, or 70%. The lower percentage will clean up flux residue, but not as good as the higher percentage stuff. Acetone does a good job of removing excess solder flux too.

5. A cut down ½” paint brush, or acid brush for scrubbing the repaired solder joint.

6. Clean rags or paper towels

7. A damp sponge to keep the soldering iron tip clean.

8. Some “Solder Wick” a braided bare copper wire designed to collect heated excess solder, aiding in joint preperation, available at electronic supply stores.

9. Some wooden toothpicks.

10. Small Hemostats or clip on heatsinks.

A. Before soldering, “Tin” the soldering iron tip by plugging it in or turning the iron on, allowing it to get to operating temperature(2-3 minutes).

B. Unroll about 3” of solder from the roll of rosin core solder & then using a clean rag or paper towel moistened with Alcohol, wipe the unrolled solder, removing the finger print oils that will create a poor solder joint.

C. Apply a small amount of solder to the now heated soldering iron tip, wiping the excess off with the wet sponge, keeping a thin layer on the soldering iron.

D. The soldering iron is now ready for use, but before applying the heated tip to a wire, wipe the tip on the damp sponge, this removes any oxidized solder and makes for a much better connection.

E. If the joint to be repaired is grey in color or appears “Crumbled”, apply some rosin soldering paste or flux to the joint with a small toothpick or screwdriver, and then apply the soldering iron tip for a few seconds.

G. The fluxed joint should clean up, allowing for a better connection. If no luck, use the solder wick to remove all traces of the old solder by apply in it between the soldering iron tip and the bad joint.

H. Hemostats and clip on heatsinks will be used to prevent the wire insulation from burning, overheating & pulling away from the connection.

I. Apply a small amount of flux to the joint to be repaired & then a very short duration of heated soldering iron tip & solder(like a few seconds or so).


J. Clean off the repaired joint with the brush & rubbing Alcohol or Acetone, the newly repaired joint should appear clean and bright, almost as if it were polished, with no voids or holes.

K. When repairing the bad or "Cold Solder Joints" (as the Electronics industry calls them), it takes really no special skills, just patience, and a place to work(along with the mentioned tools. You've got to be sober, and not stoned, as the soldering tool can be at 700 F, possibly giving the impaired bike owner severe burns.

L. If you have fine muscle control problems, have a friend do the soldering for you. Moving a wire before the electrical joint has properly set up, can create "Cold Joints" too. If possible, practice on the bench top with some scrap wires before attempting repairs on the bike.

M. This information comes from years of missile test cable and equipment assembly, when I worked at General Dynamics/Convair Division in San Diego California, on the BGM-109 Tomahawk and later on the AGM-129 Advanced Cruise Missile. This was from 1983-1993. The company had a week long soldering school, where you learned to solder meeting “Mil-Spec” standards.

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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08 Aug 2012 22:05 - 08 Aug 2012 22:08 #541467 by Patton
Replied by Patton on topic 1980 KZ250 Blowing Main Fuse
www.kzrider.com/forum/13-bike-related/47...test-download#472519
I just downloaded the KZ200 single manual, which took about 7 minutes of staring at a blank screen until it suddenly pops up on-screen.
Likely very similar to the KZ250 single.
It's an official Kawasaki Factory Service Manual

Would go have a beer and watch the news while it's downloading. :cheer:

Good Fortune! :)

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Last edit: 08 Aug 2012 22:08 by Patton.

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