High RPM's=burnt bulbs???

  • BMAC-Z1900
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High RPM's=burnt bulbs???

29 Jul 2012 01:01
#539302
Hey guys. Finally got my 74' Z1-900 running again and I'm having a weird problem. I keep burning bulbs, but I didnt figure out how until tonight. I left a stop light and cracked down on the throttle. At about 8k RPM's the headlight got really bright for a second, popped, and burnt out. It also burnt out the brake light filament on the tail light as well. Any ideas?

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  • Motor Head
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Re: High RPM's=burnt bulbs???

29 Jul 2012 01:11 - 29 Jul 2012 01:32
#539310
Sounds like a bad Voltage Regulator. Maybe try a new Combo unit from Z1enterprises.
www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?item=RI10-515 ;)
1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
Last edit: 29 Jul 2012 01:32 by Motor Head.

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  • MFolks
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Re: High RPM's=burnt bulbs???

29 Jul 2012 01:49
#539322
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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Re: High RPM's=burnt bulbs???

29 Jul 2012 04:32
#539331
Voltage regulator is failing, battery voltage is going up to 18V.
1979 KZ-750 Twin

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  • wireman
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Re: High RPM's=burnt bulbs???

29 Jul 2012 05:01
#539332
Check reg/rect and ground connections B)
posting from deep under a non-descript barn in an undisclosed location southwest of Omaha.

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  • Old Man Rock
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Re: High RPM's=burnt bulbs???

29 Jul 2012 10:44
#539362
"battery voltage is going up to 18V"... Bingo!




Just out of curiosity, why peg her to 8Krpm @ stop light while in neutral yet...? :huh:
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter

Phoenix, Az

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Re: High RPM's=burnt bulbs???

29 Jul 2012 13:09
#539379
He was coming off the stoplight,or just doing one hell of a burnout! :woohoo:
posting from deep under a non-descript barn in an undisclosed location southwest of Omaha.

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  • BMAC-Z1900
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Re: High RPM's=burnt bulbs???

30 Jul 2012 00:47
#539500
@Old Man Rock haha no I took off from the stop light in first gear and got on it.

But I appreciate the help guys! I'll take a look at the voltage regulator issue!

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  • 74ullc
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Re: High RPM's=burnt bulbs???

30 Jul 2012 01:03
#539502
Whats involved in going from the original separate Regulator/Rectifier to the new combo unit from Z1?
Gulf Coast, Texas
1977 KZ1000LTD
1984 VF700F

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Re: High RPM's=burnt bulbs???

30 Jul 2012 01:18
#539506
This may show a "Blank Page", but some good pictures on a failed regulator/rectifier:
www.redlinecycle.com/rectifiers.html
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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Re: High RPM's=burnt bulbs???

30 Jul 2012 10:24
#539539
Simple plug a& play for the most part....
The combo unit w/connector I got from Z1 plugs right in. The only issue was the mounting posts holes are slightly different where you'll need a little mod to attach it securely and w/heat sink configurations to the frame.

~1/8th" - 3/16" thick flat plate (aluminum plate would transfer heat well) with studs to hold her firmly in place will do just fine. Heat sink compound between combo unit and aluminum plate, hell she'll be golden!

1 hour job at the most (attachment mod) and you're all done. As for operations/charging, no issues on my end for over 2 years now.
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter

Phoenix, Az

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Re: High RPM's=burnt bulbs???

30 Jul 2012 12:43
#539555
Thanks for the tip on the heat sink OMR. Aluminum plate would be very easy to fab up and would work great.

I went out and took a look at my bike. Looks like I will just unplug and remove the original rectifier and regulator. Mount the new RR combo (on plate) in place of the old regulator, plug it into the original regulator connector (green), ground it, and plug into the red/white bullet connector to feed the juice back into the battery.

Sound correct? Do you know of a good way to cap off the connector (white) where the original rectifier was plugged into?

I need to do this because after reading this thread I checked my voltage and I am getting almost 20v at around 4-5K rpm. I will check/clean the regulator connections and ground first but I bet its toast.
Gulf Coast, Texas
1977 KZ1000LTD
1984 VF700F

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