78 kz1000 lighting issues

I recently bought a 78 kz1000, when I bought it, the only issues were that the neutral and oil lights were not functioning. I haven't looked into that yet but last night when I started my bike I had no low beams and about two minutes down the road I lost my high beams. Are these issues at all related? Where should I start? fuses?

Open up the headlight, loking for loose/corroded electrical connections. Most headlights have a three prong connector. Your bike's headlight might be sealed beam, requiring the entire assembly to be changed. Later years, had the popular H-4 type bulb, so only the bulb was replaced.

Your instrument and indicator bulbs may be burned out. To avoid $$$ for motorcycle bulbs, after you've removed the smaller bulbs, visit a local auto parts store, comparing what they've got with your needs.

Do this too:

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

1. Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website. It can be purchased at most Radio Shack Stores or any electronic supply places. Or use any plastic safe electrical contact cleaner(NOT WD-40 !).

2. On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

3. Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

4. However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach. Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

5. Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

6. Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

7. Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

8. If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

9. The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start. The older Kawasaki’s have reports of the soldered connections crumbling, if your bike has this problem, just ask, as I’ve got a repair procedure for this.

10. Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

11. The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

12. If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you, along with boating supply stores.

13. Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting). I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

14. All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt

15. Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.

16. If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation. Inspect all heavy duty battery cables and the smaller wire terminations(Bullet Connectors), for failed crimps, and those used in the electrical connectors, as they can fail over time.

17. Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

18. The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

20. The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

21. Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

22. Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........

“I spent a weekend going through every electrical connection and switch on the bike with a little scotchbrite pad and DeOxit - what a difference! Everything was brighter, gauge backlights, indicator lights, turn signals, I was getting a nicer spark, it fired up quicker, etc. Well worth my time. WELL worth it! “

From a forum member at www.kzrider.com

thetrikerace wrote: I recently bought a 78 kz1000, when I bought it, the only issues were that the neutral and oil lights were not functioning. I haven't looked into that yet but last night when I started my bike I had no low beams and about two minutes down the road I lost my high beams. Are these issues at all related? Where should I start? fuses?

Symptom of the system regulator not working letting the voltage get too high. Same thing happened to me. Smaller bulbs blow first, larger later.

Get a voltmeter and check the battery voltage with the engine revving at about 3000. Should be 14V. Anything higher than 14.5V means the regulator is not working.

I took my light out and I could see that it was burned out. I checked the voltage up to about 3500rpm but never got higher than 13.7. Replaced the bulb, went for a ride and it's all good so far. It may be unrelated to the dash lights

Some Digitals are sensitive to the magnetic fields around the alternator magnets. If possible test it again with the meter further away.

my new light burned out yesterday with under 100km on it. Is the regulator specific to the bike? can they be had at a Kawasaki dealership?

Two places to look:
1. www.electrosport.com They also have a good troubleshooting PDF : www.electrosport.com/technical-resources.../fault-finding-guide
2. www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com

I got a little more in depth with my multi meter. Was getting as high as 14.9 at the battery terminals. I talked to a guy at an auto electrical store and he said a headlight should withstand as high as 18. So I went home and checked for ac at the headlight, sure enough, 28 ac volts. I believe this means my rectifier is shot. I ordered a new one Which will take 2 to 4 weeks, I'm optimistic that this will solve my problems.