2001 KZ1000p starter grinding

Hi all, a couple of weeks ago I picked up a KZ1000p at auction.I got it home threw in a battery and went riding When I first started it the starter would work and then grind a little but would always start it. Then all of a sudden lots of grinding and the engine would not even turn over then just a click. I did some research and figured it was the starter clutch, remove and replace that check everything out put it back together. Now we turn over for a second or two but then grind eventually ending ina click where nothing turns until I tap the starter then I start the whole process over again. What do you think the problem could be? I have two ideas but not enough experience to determine which or if either is correct. My first thought is the bearing in the starter could be bad allowing the starter shaft to skip over the intermediate gear between the starter and the clutch. The second is that the shaft that holds the intermediate gear could be worn either inside the case and cover or where it meets the gear. I dont believe its the second because the shaft was smooth and tight in both but again I dont know what that tolerance should be. I woud appreciate any input or ideas. I dont just want tokeep buying and installing new parts and not solve the issue I want to ride. Thanks all.

Starter Solenoid/Motor Checkout Procedure

Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:

1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).

2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.

3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight. If the cables feel “Crunchy” when flexed, they may have corrosion inside the insulation, requiring replacement.

4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.

6.Try again to start the bike, keep in mind some Kawasaki’s have a clutch interlock to prevent cranking the engine while it’s in gear, so the clutch lever must be squeezed.

7.If no luck, go to step #8

8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.

9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. A website for starter motors is:

A. www.psep.biz/store/mitsuba_starter_motors_page_2.htm

B. www.nationsautoelectric.com/Kawasaki.html

C. www.whitedogbikes.com/cat--Kawasaki-Star...-Starter-Motors.html

D. www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/starters.php

E. www.dbelectrical.com/

F. www.stockers.com/index.php?dt=HS-29 (Mitsuba SM-220 12 volt 0.8KW Starter Motor)

G http://.www.nationsautoelectric.com/Kawasaki.html

H http:// www.dbelectrical.com/


10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit. Be aware that the new solenoid from the lawn mower shop may require a ground wire for it to work.

11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.

12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.


And here's a repair procedure with a video at the end:

Over Running Starter Clutch Repair On the Older, Bigger 4’S

1. When preparing to repair the starter over running clutch have a few items on hand:

A. New alternator cover gasket.
B. New springs (3).
C. New spring caps (3).
D. New rollers (3).

2. If possible, put the motorcycle on the center stand and tilt to the right to reduce the oil volume in the alternator cover.

3. Place an oil catch pan under the left side of the engine to collect what small amount of oil that will escape when the alternator cover is removed.

4. Remove the foot shifter lever, left foot peg assembly and the sprocket cover.

5. Some Kawasaki’s have socket head cap screws(Allen type) and others may have fasteners with a Phillips type. If the latter is there, a # 3 bit seems to work the best for removal.

6. Remove the alternator cover and take care with the three wires coming from the alternator stator. These are the voltage supply wires for the motorcycle. Rest the cover on some newspaper or rags to prevent damage.

7. The magnetic Rotor or flywheel will probably require a removal bolt or puller. NOTE, SOME ENGINES HAVE LEFT HAND THREADS ON THE ROTOR!!

8. The over running clutch is bolted to the back of the rotor with three Allen head fasteners.

9. Separate the rotor from the over running clutch and inspect for damage in the springs, rollers, and spring caps. Replace any worn parts.

10. Re-assemble in reverse order taking care when re-installing the Alternator cover not to pinch any wires. If the cover will not re-install without force, check before any damage occurs.

11.One caution. These tend to get the skips and have difficulty with the one way clutch on the starter holding once they have been taken apart if the old parts are reused. They may not look that worn, but as a matter of course I would replace the entire part # 13193-1006 and part # 92026-112.

12.Also, if you presently have a follow-on rattle or growl once the bike has started take a good look at the starter motor gear, Part # 21167-002, and the pin on which it rotates. That gear and pin tends to wear the center bearing surface after only thirty or so years and then cocks under load and puts the starter clutch assembly in a bind causing it to skip or rattle. One problem looks like the other.

13.Use assembly lube when putting the starter gear back together with the pin.

14. Read this procedure from Red Line Cycle:
redlinecycle.com/Starter%20Clutch%20Tech.html
(It may show a blank page, but information is there).


15. A video on how to do this repair:

So replacing the starter gear and shaft should solve my problem as the clutch has already been replaced. I appreciate the info, I will order the parts and let you know how it turns out.

Burglary5 wrote: Hi all, a couple of weeks ago I picked up a KZ1000p at auction.I got it home threw in a battery and went riding When I first started it the starter would work and then grind a little but would always start it. Then all of a sudden lots of grinding and the engine would not even turn over then just a click. I did some research and figured it was the starter clutch, remove and replace that check everything out put it back together. Now we turn over for a second or two but then grind eventually ending ina click where nothing turns until I tap the starter then I start the whole process over again. What do you think the problem could be? I have two ideas but not enough experience to determine which or if either is correct. My first thought is the bearing in the starter could be bad allowing the starter shaft to skip over the intermediate gear between the starter and the clutch. The second is that the shaft that holds the intermediate gear could be worn either inside the case and cover or where it meets the gear. I dont believe its the second because the shaft was smooth and tight in both but again I dont know what that tolerance should be. I woud appreciate any input or ideas. I dont just want tokeep buying and installing new parts and not solve the issue I want to ride. Thanks all.

Possible worn starter bushings on either end of the armature shaft, causing the armature to ground out. Pull the starter and disassemble inspect and rebuild, or get a good used one.

I was wondering about the starter bushings. I ordered the new starter gear, shaft, and also ordered new spacers for the flywheel. Hopefully they will show up tonight and I can get them in. The starter works well everytime so I dont think grounding out is the issue, the click I mention is the starter binding on something which I now believe is the starter gear. It's impossible to tell how much play there is because I cant get to it with the cover on so thats what I'm hoping it is right now anyway. If this doesn't fix the issue I will pull the starter. I guess if the bushings were bad it could allow the starter shaft to move enough to bind on the starter gear. I appreciate the input.