Weird...!!!

Swap your video over to another site.
What about the Light, being effected by RFI?
Does the engine actually Miss? Hick-up/ stutter/ crap out?

loudhvx wrote:

TeK9iNe wrote: ...You can see, i even turn off the ignition and kill switch, it still runs off just Dyna2000 and coils, and carbs...

There is a possible damger with running the bike this way.
If alternator is a permanent magnet type, and if the regulator requires a switched sense-line for battery voltage, turning off the ignition kills that line. If the bike is then revved up steadily, the battery voltage can go well over 20 volts in that case.

If you do this definitely don't rev the bike much, and definitely don't ride it that way.

Thanx lou ,I actually forgot about that possibility in my frustration... It was first time and I havnt ridden it. Everything else seems to be ok still.

TeK9iNe wrote: ...
Too lean/too rich causing spark to go out? Head gasket leak? Leakdown seemed ok...
What sort of engine conditions cause the actual spark to dissapear then come back... I thought plugs fire all the time regardless...
Never should have started using the timing light for diagnosis - the old ear and power feel was more comforting!

Spark should happen every revolution for each cylinder all the time. IT should never cut out unless you have a rev-limiter installed.

Spark blowout is really just too much resistance in the gap preventing the spark from happening. As you said, that is usually on motors with higher than normal compression, or with oil fouling. If your plugs come out relatively clean, then I wouldn't think that was the cause.

Incidently, that type of spark failure won't usually happen at idle since there is not enough air in teh cylinder to produce the resistance required to prevent the spark. That type of failure tends to happen at higher RPMs, AND wider throttle openings.

Right, this is what I have come to know over the years. Never really encountered this problem with all new stuff

I was pretty sure it wasnt blow ou or oil fouling, cause the plugs look pretty good and uniform when inspected, and it doesnt stall... revs freely.

Thanx again for all the input!

Motor Head wrote: Swap your video over to another site.
What about the Light, being effected by RFI?
Does the engine actually Miss? Hick-up/ stutter/ crap out?

Yeah, video is going down to another place asap!

The light could be effected by RFI I suppose, but it hasnt really had any issues otherwise, and I can use it on other bikes just fine.

I beleive i'm hearing slight misses in the idle and when i rev it up and hold it, but it could just be my mind trying to correlate what im seeing to what im hearing...

It seems at times to skip fire/spark everyother rev sometimes when rev holding...

Thnx!

TeK9iNe wrote: ...The wires and plug caps are suppression type. New wires. All caps between 5-6 kohms....

Perhaps irrelevant to the case at hand, but isn't having both suppression wires and resistor caps putting too much resistance in the secondary loop?

What is the ohm measurement in the secondary loop for each coil, and how do the measurements compare with FSM specs?

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

TeK9iNe wrote: ...The wires and plug caps are suppression type. New wires. All caps between 5-6 kohms....

Perhaps irrelevant to the case at hand, but isn't having both suppression wires and resistor caps putting too much resistance in the secondary loop?

What is the ohm measurement in the secondary loop for each coil, and how do the measurements compare with FSM specs?

Good Fortune!

BINGO!

Motor Head wrote:

Patton wrote:

TeK9iNe wrote: ...The wires and plug caps are suppression type. New wires. All caps between 5-6 kohms....

Perhaps irrelevant to the case at hand, but isn't having both suppression wires and resistor caps putting too much resistance in the secondary loop?

What is the ohm measurement in the secondary loop for each coil, and how do the measurements compare with FSM specs?

Good Fortune!

BINGO!

Nooooo! It better not be! :laugh: i wish lol!

I got to put this down for today, but i'm picking up a timing light tomorrow for extra verification...

Here's that video! :

Clarify a couple of things if you will. the switches, they are or are not in the circuit? Also when you touched the Black test lead to ground, was this supposed to kill it? Is this wired to the Dyna 2K as a Kill?
That light fluctuation could be the high secondary resistance causing the light to have poor pick-up. Secondary voltage would be lowered if you doubled up on the resistance, caps and wires.

Understanding so far ---

Missing with previous igniter system.
Same missing with the new Dyna 2000 system.
Therefore missing is likely due to the same cause with either system.

Same missing with new Dyna 2000 system when wired to bypass stock circuitry.
Seems to rule out stock circuitry as cause of the missing.

So the missing is presumably common to the previous igniter system and the new Dyna 2000 system, but not due to stock circuitry.

Seems to leave precious few ignition elements common to both the previous igniter system and the new Dyna 2000 system wired to bypass stock circuitry. Maybe the battery, but what else?
If the same battery has been used with both old and new systems, wondering if the battery itself might be at fault due to an intermittent internal failure of some kind?

Good Fortune!

Motor Head: All the switches have been taken out of the circuit and a new (used a couple months/known good) battery was used for the Dyna2000 and coils.

The black test lead was an additional ground to the case that I was using. i touched the case top bolt to see if it would have any effect.

I'm thinkin scrap the wires and caps and go all new one piece... They ohm ok, but as with all electrical, whats good on the bench can be bad in the bike lol!

Patton: Correct understanding

Still a few things to try... new battery was attempted.

Gonna have new timing light tomorrow and see if i'm just paranoid right now, and perhaps spark is fine, or just weak from too much suppression.

The red and white wire I disconnect at teh end of video, are the power for Dyna2000 and coils.

Thanx all!

OK, so in my crazy over-tiredness, it appears I have overlooked the KISS method and went straight to the hardball approach.

Working from the Patton/MotorHead BINGO approach: I discovered tonight that the secondary resistance from cap to cap thru the coils was 35-38kohms!

The wires that were used were 5-7kohms by themseleves. The plug caps measured out at about 5 -5.5kohms and the coils were almost at thier limit of around 15kohms.

Put it all together with apparently not so great connections... :blink: 35-38kohms -WAY too much.

I'm gonna go out on a limb, and say that its pretty likely this is the issue.

Picking up some new stuff tomorrow and will have an update ASAP.

Once again, thanx for all the help this tired fool can handle! :lol:

TeK9iNe wrote: OK, so in my crazy over-tiredness, it appears I have overlooked the KISS method and went straight to the hardball approach.

Working from the Patton/MotorHead BINGO approach: I discovered tonight that the secondary resistance from cap to cap thru the coils was 35-38kohms!

The wires that were used were 5-7kohms by themseleves. The plug caps measured out at about 5 -5.5kohms and the coils were almost at thier limit of around 15kohms.

Put it all together with apparently not so great connections... :blink: 35-38kohms -WAY too much.

I'm gonna go out on a limb, and say that its pretty likely this is the issue.

Picking up some new stuff tomorrow and will have an update ASAP.

Once again, thanx for all the help this tired fool can handle! :lol:

:blush: :whistle: :huh: :silly:
Heh, we all overlook something easy from time to time. On Thursday I spent an hour trying to figure out how to mount a License Plate Bracket to the rear of a Healy 3000, once I figured out it Relocated it. It took 5 min.

New plug wires and good caps and connections all around.

Problem resolved! :woohoo: :pinch: :blush:

Thanx for the patience LOL!