Weird...!!!

you would be able to see your problem with a scope, if it is electrical. Anyone you know have one? Maybe borrow or use for a small fee, like some cold beer?

Is the same battery being used with the new Dyna 2000 as was being used with the old stock Igniter that had the same misfire issues?

Good Fortune!

Take any multimeter you have, place it on its lowest ACV scale and measure the ACV in the DCV system, across the battery is fine.

I presume, then, that the pickups are the usual Hall-effect type, with a rotating magnet rotor. I don't think the air gap in that case would make a lot of difference.

(I mentioned it because if you were using the original pickups, crank play vibration can use up a really close gap causing the rotor to collide with a pickup. This sudden shock causes extra (ghost) firing, which makes the engine occasionally make a puff sound at idle. (The factory system sometimes does this even without pickup/rotor collision.))

But since your misfires are an actual loss of spark issue, then that makes things different.

What you want to do is eliminate the possibility that the charging system is losing voltage in short spikes, or that the wiring elsewhere in the bike is intermittently shorting out (which is also what Motorhead and Patton are alluding to). Without a scope that is difficult to nail down, however, you can determine if it's the ignition by isolating the wiring.

By that, I mean run the entire ignition off an auxiliary car battery. Don't share any wiring except the engine as ground if the Dyna 2000 requires it.

Then if it still happens, you know it's not the bike's electrical system causing the problem. Then it would have to be mechanical, or the Dyna 2000 system.

Obviously that means testing on a center stand, so if the problem is not there while standing still, you may have to rig up a second, small AGM battery somewhere on the bike to ride with. By small, not too small, you don't want the voltage to drop too much while testing.

All very good and relevent info, thanx!

I didnt think charging system yesturday, (tired) but that could be...
What would be max acceptable VAC across the DC-batt (leakage from poor rectification)?
Seems to be regulating correctly...

I could run the whole ignition off a seprate battery and actually turn the ignition key off and have the engine still runing off just the dyna 2000 and coils...

Video coming...

VIDEO:

In the video, you can see that i've got the Dyna 2000 hooked up directly to a new battery.
(The power lead for the dyna is connected to the left side coil)

I put the old coils back in as they work fine (tested on another bike, and are correct ohms).
Wired coils directly to battery as well.

Connected an additional engine ground. All plug wires new and caps measure 5-6 Kohms.

Fire up the bike, and you can see - starts easily/no choke - already warm.


Light connected to 1-4 wire.
The timing light clearly shows random drops in the spark that last quite a while sometimes.
(When light looks solid in video, it is actually flashing at a nice usual rate.)

Connected to 2-3 - same thing, except more frequent/looks worse.

You can see, i even turn off the ignition and kill switch, it still runs off just Dyna2000 and coils, and carbs...

Too lean/too rich causing spark to go out? Head gasket leak? Leakdown seemed ok...
What sort of engine conditions cause the actual spark to dissapear then come back... I thought plugs fire all the time regardless...
Never should have started using the timing light for diagnosis - the old ear and power feel was more comforting!

Thankx all!

Your video link,
My Laptop running Avast Anti-virus said It blocked a Trojan horse when attempting to download. So no video viewing for me, sorry.
Do you have a second timing light to see if it is a issue with the light and maybe some RFI? Are those wires/ plugs/ caps resistor suppression type?

Sorry about the virus video thing!?!? I believe its an add. You can just close it and try to re-download. If still virus - omit of course! - I will delete link.

I dont have another timing light - it broke This light works perfectly fine on other bikes, cars etc.

The wires and plug caps are suppression type. New wires. All caps between 5-6 kohms.

The plugs are new D9EA. Old ones were fine, same result.

Video is exactly as i describe anyways.

Still buggered... Could mechanical issues other than obvious flooding cause spark to go intermittant?

Weird... I just downloaded video fine :huh:

The problem with AC voltmeters is that they are only giving an average approximation of the AC content on a voltage source. That won't necessarily show if the power is entirely dropping out for an instant.

Because cheaper AC voltmeters approximate the AC RMS voltage in different ways, different meters will report wildly different values for ACV in all but pure sinusoidal waveforms. More info for the curious: My notes on AC voltmeters

A scope is really the only thing that is going to show you brief, but total, dropout in power.

TeK9iNe wrote: ...You can see, i even turn off the ignition and kill switch, it still runs off just Dyna2000 and coils, and carbs...

There is a possible damger with running the bike this way.
If alternator is a permanent magnet type, and if the regulator requires a switched sense-line for battery voltage, turning off the ignition kills that line. If the bike is then revved up steadily, the battery voltage can go well over 20 volts in that case.

If you do this definitely don't rev the bike much, and definitely don't ride it that way.

TeK9iNe wrote: ...
Too lean/too rich causing spark to go out? Head gasket leak? Leakdown seemed ok...
What sort of engine conditions cause the actual spark to dissapear then come back... I thought plugs fire all the time regardless...
Never should have started using the timing light for diagnosis - the old ear and power feel was more comforting!

Spark should happen every revolution for each cylinder all the time. IT should never cut out unless you have a rev-limiter installed.

Spark blowout is really just too much resistance in the gap preventing the spark from happening. As you said, that is usually on motors with higher than normal compression, or with oil fouling. If your plugs come out relatively clean, then I wouldn't think that was the cause.

Incidently, that type of spark failure won't usually happen at idle since there is not enough air in teh cylinder to produce the resistance required to prevent the spark. That type of failure tends to happen at higher RPMs, AND wider throttle openings.

The video only gave me a virus pop-up as well. I could not watch it.

I would try Youtube instead.

loudhvx wrote: The problem with AC voltmeters is that they are only giving an average approximation of the AC content on a voltage source. That won't necessarily show if the power is entirely dropping out for an instant.

Because cheaper AC voltmeters approximate the AC RMS voltage in different ways, different meters will report wildly different values for ACV in all but pure sinusoidal waveforms. More info for the curious: My notes on AC voltmeters

A scope is really the only thing that is going to show you brief, but total, dropout in power.

yeah, ur right, I know. I should get another scope... Used to have a nice Fluke.