TOPIC:

Also, how do you check if igniter and regulator is good with meter? please let me know. Thanks

Okay, With ignition switch ON and RUN/STOP switch in RUN position, take your meter and make sure it is in DC Volts and in either Auto scale or 24 Volts. Now place the leads in the positions indicated and verify you have voltage at the coils. The pickup and the ignitor work together to ground the coil at the precise moment needed to allow the coil to discharge its energy into the spark plugs and thus creating a spark. You need the battery voltage present at the coil constantly for this to happen. This test will ensure that part of this requirement is being met. If it is not there or is way low then we need to address that first. Here are the points the leads need to go. The black or ground lead on your meter should be able to poke into the connector and touch the pin. Don't disconnect the connector to get to the pin, that would break the circuit. If you don't get a voltage reading, try putting the black lead on the negative terminal on the battery. Let us know what you find.

www.amazon.com/Equus-3320-Auto-Ranging-D...imeter/dp/B000EVYGZA
I have the same product so which one should I turn to? DCV Function? ACV Function? Resistance function? ACmafunction? DIODE function? Continuity function? DCmA function? Battery test function?

DCV

OK, my multimeter is kinda crap. When I turn to DCV and numbers will be like 150+ then when i touch both red and black together it will be back to 0. Anyway I tested it with coil and igniter. It will read at -10.50 but I used my dad's old fashioned meter and it says 20 volts. So is it good?

removed

Those numbers you gave don't make sense. Do you have the leads plugged into the meter correctly? The black lead will be in the center jack and the red lead will be in the right hand jack.
20 volts? The battery should only put out in the neighborhood of 12 volts. I can see the -10.5 volts if you have the lead polarity backwards. If you don't, then your battery is hooked up backwards which will be a real problem.

Sanity check:
Put your leads directly on the battery terminals, red on the positive and black on the negative, what's the reading?
Verify your leads are plugged in correctly to the meter
Verify you are checking for voltage at the points indicated

No, that solid black wire is not a ground!
It's the hot lead going to your starter motor relay.
Whenever you press the starter button, it connects that black wire to the hot lead (the red/yellow wire) that is also feeding your coils and the igniter module.

If you connected it the way you show, every time you press the starter button, you would be shorting your battery to ground and blow your MAIN fuse.
How about that!

I know. I misunderstood the diagram. Should I just ingore black wire since I dont have starter. Sorry, I did it wrong. I checked again and it is 10.5 volt. I checked battery and it was reading at 12.3 Volt. So, coil is fine?

Alright, an occasional sanity check is very valuable. 12.3 for a battery at rest is fine but the coil voltage seems a bit low but it should be workable. Anybody else have any input on that?

Now, let's make sure you have voltage directly to your igniter. It might seem like overkill but remember your harness is suspect.

So, follow this diagram:

If that voltage is good then we will make sure the continuity between the coil ground side and the igniter is good.
To do this, turn your ignition switch to OFF and put your RUN/STOP switch in the STOP position. That is very important!
Now, put your meter in resistance or Ohm mode (that horseshoe looking symbol):



Now put your leads at these points:


You should get a very low reading or zero.