79 KZ1000 Shaft - ignition problems

Hi, I just recently purchased a 79 KZ1000 just a week ago.
It is actually my first bike, and I'm loving it

Right after buying it, the bike started to have issues.
The battery had been drained to the point that the starter wouldn't ignite.
The battery is somewhat new.
The headlight lights up, but when the battery is low, the horn is not as loud and the blinkers dont blink.

I recharged the battery one time. The bike started fine.
The bike tipped over to the side during a test run, and after that it wouldnt start as easily, had to use the kick start.

I recharged the battery again.
The bike started fine again, and it would do so for the next two days. I did encounter an issue with he bike shutting down when I came to a full stop on a slight uphill.

The last run I made with the bike was when I went to put gas on it.
The bike was on the run, and when I switched up a gear, the bike would start jerking, and the lights would dim unless I kept the revs relatively high. At every turn, if I let down on the throttle, the bike would want to die.

Can someone help me figure out the issue?
Thanks for reading

I'd fully charge the battery, and then get a floating charge indicator(it's a small glass tube with floating balls that indicate the amount of charge) most auto parts stores sell them.

Have the battery load tested too, both tests will tell you the health of the battery. Most motorcycle shops can load test the batery for you, if not, try the local auto part store.

If the battery checks good,re-install it and now with a multimeter, check the voltage on the battery with the engine started, it should be no more than 14.5 volts D.C.

Check all battery cables for being clean and tight & check where the Negative battery cable goes to the engine mounting bolt too.

Using a multimeter is not difficult, but here's how to set the meter up:

Let's assume you're going to use a Digital Multimeter; set the selector switch to VDC(Volts, Direct Current), range of 20.

Put the BLACK probe on either the battery Negative(-) terminal/post and the RED probe on the battery's Positive(+) terminal/post. Having a helper hold the probes will make testing easier.

Now start the engine and let it warm up to operating temperature, if you think it's going to overheat, position a fan for cooling. Air cooled motorcycle engines should not be idled(in my opinion) longer that 5-10 minutes as this puts a lot of stress on the engine components.

If your motorcycle's charging system is working, you should see a higher voltage as the rpm's rise(no more than 4000 rpm).

A very good troubleshooting page can be found here:
www.electrosport.com/technical-resources.../fault-finding-guide

If after testing, it's been determined that your alternator's stator(the wire windings)is bad,I have a procedure written up for roving and re-installing a new one, just ask...

If not already done, would assure valve clearances are within specs.
And that fluid levels in the battery are correct.
Good Fortune!

Update:
I charged the battery. This time when I tried to start the bike... the thing wouldnt ever start!
the bike would make that whirring sound that it wants to start, but it doesnt...
After trying for a minute, the battery was dead.
The kick start on my KZ wont work when the bike is cold... so, no luck there either.

I will take the battery to get checked tomorrow.. but I don't think thats anywhere near the main problem.

I will also note that when the bike is on, the sound on the engine is not smooth (as in, it doesnt keep purring the way it should). And when I am in mid run, I hear a random explosion coming from the exhaust. I hope that is all part of the same problem.

@MFolks, thanks for your information earlier. Could you send me that stator file that you said you had? Thanks so much

Alternator Testing For the Older 4’s(Z1’s,Kz 900’s, Kz1000’s,Kz1100’s ,GPz1100’s
And possibly the 750’s).

To check to see if the alternator is working you need to follow these simple steps:

1. Fully charge the battery as this will be the power source during this test.

2. Disconnect the Regulator/Rectifier at the plug that has the six wires in it.

3. Start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature.

4. If you're worried about overheating, position a large fan for cooling the engine.

5. After the engine has reached operating temperature, have a helper assist you, and using a multi-meter, read the output at the three yellow wires (or the alternator output wires)at the disconnected connector.

6. Raise the engine speed to 4000 rpm, and see what the three YELLOW wire combinations(or any alternator output wires) are(1-3, 2-3 & 1-2). The output will be around 50 Volts A.C.(Alternating Current). BE CAREFUL, AS THERE IS A SHOCK HAZARD HERE!!

7. If any of the combinations are low or non-existent, the stator(wire windings) are bad and must be replaced. Some of the older Z1’s and KZ900’s were reported to be phase sensitive, so check the wire colors carefully.

8. Using an OHMETER, Check the three wire combinations again, looking for a reading of 0.36 - 0.54 OHMS. If the readings are above or below, the stator may be bad and need replacement. Also check from any of the three YELLOW wires to ground, this will show if arcing took place. Check only with the engine off !!

9. Before ordering a new stator, check the connections from the stator as there are electrical "Bullet" connectors that may be damaged or dirty.
Inspect the wiring for signs of shorting or overheating too. www.z1enterprises.com sells replacement rubber grommets for the alternator output wiring, they get hard and could leak oil after a while.

10. Check the wiring coming out of the grommet as there have been situations where the wires were damaged causing a short(I.E. twisted together with insulation damage).

11. The sprocket cover will have to be removed to access the electrical connectors coming from the alternator, the left foot peg assembly and shifting lever will have to come off also.



Alternator Stator Replacement On the Older 4’s
Source for replacement Stators

A. www.electrosport.com/technical-resources.../fault-finding-guide
B. www.customrewind.com
C. www.rmstator.com
D. www.regulatorrectifier.com

1. If by testing either by checking the output voltage from the stator or by using and ohmmeter for resistance and the stator is determined to be bad, replacing the stator is not a difficult job.

2. The motorcycle owner should have on hand a replacement alternator gasket as it will tear on removal and leak if reused.

3. Put the bike on the center stand if possible and lean it to the right to minimize the oil volume that could come out when the alternator cover is removed.

4. Have selection of Metric wrenches and sockets along with Metric Allen keys to be able to accomplish this repair. ¼" and 3/8" ratchets and extensions may be needed along with Allen bits.

5. Remove the gear shift lever, the sprocket cover and possibly the left foot peg assembly.

6. A catch pan for what little oil will be lost should be positioned under the alternator on the left side. Newspapers will soak up any oil lost or some kitty litter will do as an absorbent.

7. Remove the alternator cover fasteners, some bikes use a socket head cap screw(Allen type) and others use the Phillips head type, the #3 screwdriver bit fits best for those. Use a small dish or can to collect the removed fasteners from the parts to prevent loss/damage.

8. The alternator stator is secured to the inside of the cover usually with three Allen headed bolts, Some bikes may have Torx style fasteners, Remove them and disconnect the three yellow wires that have bullet connectors on them from the bundled wires inside the sprocket cover.

9. If your bike has some color other than yellow for the alternator output wires, make note of what goes where as the older Kawasaki’s were phase sensitive in regard to the regulator/rectifiers.

10. When installing the replacement stator, clock or position the output wires and grommet so they fit into the small port under the alternator cover without being pinched or damaged.

11. Tighten the three Allen or Torx fasteners, securing the replacement stator to the cover. I like using the BLUE Loctite # 242 for hardware that can be removed with hand tools.

12. Remove the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the alternator cover and engine case by scraping with a piece of sharpened plastic like Lexan or Plexi-glass as these will not gouge the soft Aluminum Cases. Avoid using a metal gasket scraper for this.

13. Position the alternator cover, checking for pinched wiring and install the fasteners with a little silver anti-seize on the threads, tightening to the correct torque.

14. Connect up the output wires to the mating female bullet connectors and while you’re in there, check the routing of the wire bundle that runs through there.

15. Inspect for signs of heat damage to the wire insulation and vibration damage too.

16. The side stand switch, neutral switch, and oil pressure switch wiring are all bundled with the alternator output wiring running above and behind the engine output sprocket. This bundle runs in a channel as it goes up toward the various electrical connections.

17. The regulator/rectifier plug on the 80’s bikes usually has six wires in it:

A. One (1)WHITE with RED stripe, this is the bikes main power wire usually 12 gauge in size.

B. One(1) smaller Brown wire, probably 18 gauge or so, the voltage sense wire for the regulator/rectifier, helps keeping it from overcharging the battery.

C. One(1) BLACK with YELLOW stripe wire, part of the ground circuits, maybe 16 gauge in size.

D. Three(3) YELLOW wires, maybe 14 gauge in size, the alternator output wires going to the regulator/rectifier which converts the Alternating Current(A.C.) to Direct Current(D.C.) using rectification, producing the power to run the motorcycle and charge the battery.

18. Reinstall the sprocket cover, again checking for pinched wires before tightening. Install the shifter on it’s splined shaft checking for proper location, and the left side foot peg assembly.

19. Except for the minor oil spill and reluctant fasteners, it’s not a very difficult job to do.

I have yet to check do the electric check, just got me a multimeter today, but i didnt have the battery... so had to postpone until tomorrow since the sun had set.

So far, I've done some research, and I keep finding through the forums and mechanics that the stator is the more likely issue (not 100%, will know that tomorrow)

Question:
I have found a bunch of stators being sold online.
I've found a number of places at different prices. Which one would be the better site to visit to get the stator that I need?

so far I have these options:
www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/1979-...000A-KZ-1000A-Stator
www.z1enterprises.com/Stator--Kawasaki-KZ1000-7980-4132.aspx
www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-Motorcycle-KZ100...cm_cr_pr_product_top

the z1 enterprises and the amazon link seem to be OEM...

Also, what is the difference between these two?
www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/1979-...-Stator-Cover-Gasket
www.z1enterprises.com/Gasket--Alternator...-85-KZ1100-2650.aspx

I just cant find the difference between them no matter how much I look...

thanks!!

Update:
tried starting the bike... but now it wont even do that
with the multimeter on the battery posts; I noticed that the battery's voltage would get very low as i turned on the starter - maybe I should have tried with the kickstart when the battery was on full, but i tried that before, and it didnt do much for me.

I could hear the engine do its cycles, but no fire...
so ill assume the starter engine and other components are still working.

Anyways, I just went ahead and ordered the new stator and gasket from z1enterprises.. seemed like the right choice...

Update:

ayayay... I guess the day I fully be enjoy my KZ is yet to come..
I replaced the alternator stator sucessfully (well, at my best ability to follow the instructions by MFolks and the Clymer manual)..
The AC voltage read at 35 volts @ 3000 rpm - I live in a complex so did not want to get too loud.
Btw, I did check the resistance on the old stator, and yes, it was a goner.

But, the problems didnt stop there. My battery still keeps getting drained; just as before.

I ran the bike for 5 miles (at times the bike would shut off when I'm near idle -no, the clutch is fine) One time, when I was trying to go at higher rpms (talking 40mph at 3rd gear), the bike almost died on me. And the bike would constantly wanted to shut off at idle, and it sometimes did when i let got of the throttle...
And the electric starter stopped working.. thank goodness there is the kick start..

PLEASE, help! i have no idea what it could be anymore, maybe another piece of the electric?

And just an extra question, how long does it take for you to take the choke completely off? my bike takes a whiiile, even on this florida 80f heat. My carburetor, from what I know, was modified by the guy whom i bought the bike from... and when I do take the choke out, the bike wants to stall sometimes...

Thanks

Go to this website for a good troubleshooting of your bike's charging system:
www.electrosport.com/technical-resources.../fault-finding-guide

With the engine up to operating temperature, put a multimeter set on VDC(Volts, Direct Current,) range of 20. with the RED probe on the battery Positive(+) terminal, and the BLACK probe on either the battery Negative(-) terminal or a good chassis ground(it's the same as the battery is connected to an engine mointing bolt). This should be done at 4000 rpm.

You should see no more than 14.5 volts D.C., if lower than that, I'd suspect the regulator/rectifier as bad.

Was battery load-tested?
What were results?


Good Fortune!

the battery was tested a week ago, and its good.

i ran the battery test on running, and it gives 14.5 volts at 4000rpm and it goes higher
but on idle, the voltage fluctuates between 12 and 11.5

Again, i took the bike for a lap today
when is rather cold, everything on the bike is rather hard to control
as it heats up, the bike rides like a charm (i encountered no issues this time)
The problem came when I parked and shut the bike down, tried starting the bike, once again, the electric starter wouldn't work, so I could only use the kick starter

Maybe its the wires?

Several places to inspect and clean:

1. All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer, check the engine mounting bolt that has a cable from the Negative(-) post/terminal of the battery.

2. Check the cables going from the starter solenoid to the battery, and starter motor for corrosion and tightness.

3. The starter motor has carbon brushes that may be original, they may be worn down, or the commutator has burned/wornspots in it.

Do this too for good electrical operation of your bike's systems:

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website. Or use any plastic safe electrical contact cleaner(NOT WD-40 !).

On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach.
Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start. The older Kawasaki’s have reports of the soldered connections crumbling, if your bike has this problem, just ask, as I’ve got a repair procedure for this.

Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you.

Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting).
I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt

Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.

If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation.

Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........

“I spent a weekend going through every electrical connection and switch on the bike with a little scotchbrite pad and DeOxit - what a difference! Everything was brighter, gauge backlights, indicator lights, turn signals, I was getting a nicer spark, it fired up quicker, etc. Well worth my time. WELL worth it! “

From a forum member at www.kzrider.com