testing charging system?

Patton wrote: Will the engine run well enough to obtain voltage measurements across the battery posts at idle and at 3000~4000 rpm? And if so, what are the readings?

Good Fortune!

9.4 @ idle
12.4 at 4000rpm

The low, 6v across the battery at key ON, sounds like the battery is in question. Charge the battery at a slow rate overnight, and take it to a shop to have it tested. Most likely you will need a new one from the sounds of it.
It looks like the Voltage is increasing from Idle to 4K when checking at the battery terminals, maybe still low, hard to say with a possible bad battery. Get it checked out next.

Motor Head wrote: The low, 6v across the battery at key ON, sounds like the battery is in question. Charge the battery at a slow rate overnight, and take it to a shop to have it tested. Most likely you will need a new one from the sounds of it.
It looks like the Voltage is increasing from Idle to 4K when checking at the battery terminals, maybe still low, hard to say with a possible bad battery. Get it checked out next.

battery is 2 days old. I put on tricl charge each night.

davem wrote: ...Volts at battery across post key off 11.5v....

Imo, battery is deficient, for whatever reason.

Could also have the battery load-tested.
And would suggest having this done somewhere other that where the battery was acquired.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

davem wrote: ...Volts at battery across post key off 11.5v....

Imo, battery is deficient, for whatever reason.

Could also have the battery load-tested.
And would suggest having this done somewhere other that where the battery was acquired.

Good Fortune!

I was having this problem before i bought this battery but I will take it to be tested to be sure.

something else I just noticed...the conector that goes from stator to rectifier regulator is melted just a tad where the black and yellow wire plug in.

What is battery voltage without cables connected (or with one of the cables disconnected)?

davem wrote:

Patton wrote:

davem wrote: ...Volts at battery across post key off 11.5v....

Imo, battery is deficient, for whatever reason.

Could also have the battery load-tested.
And would suggest having this done somewhere other that where the battery was acquired.

Good Fortune!

I was having this problem before i bought this battery but I will take it to be tested to be sure.

something else I just noticed...the connector that goes from stator to rectifier regulator is melted just a tad where the black and yellow wire plug in.

Any heat damaged wiring will have to be repaired. This may require a new R/R, as it could be 1 leg of the Rectifier, Diode, is bad. This will allow partial charging. You will not get full charging if one of the three internal rectifier circuits has a bad diode. A Diode is like a one way door, inside the rectifier it turns the ACV into DCV. So if one section is bad, then it will drop 30% of its charging current.
Get the battery tested. I assume it is full of electrolyte? That is an Acid pack that can very well be sold separately from the battery. You fill, then let rest, then charge, again resting before install/ use.

Patton wrote: What is battery voltage without cables connected (or with one of the cables disconnected)?

right now its at 10.8v across terminals with out cables on. I didnt get to check it after I charged it. rode it to my shop and did my test.
Its the same reading when cables are hooked up.
.......I did the alternator stator resistence test thet is in my manual. with key off i get .9 ohms per 2 yellow wire combos of the three. The book says it should be between .5 and .7 what does it mean if its higher.(.9)?
as you recall the test with engine running was to spec.

:sick: :sick: :sick:

Motor Head wrote:

davem wrote:

Patton wrote:

davem wrote: ...Volts at battery across post key off 11.5v....

Imo, battery is deficient, for whatever reason.

Could also have the battery load-tested.
And would suggest having this done somewhere other that where the battery was acquired.

Good Fortune!

I was having this problem before i bought this battery but I will take it to be tested to be sure.

something else I just noticed...the connector that goes from stator to rectifier regulator is melted just a tad where the black and yellow wire plug in.

Any heat damaged wiring will have to be repaired. This may require a new R/R, as it could be 1 leg of the Rectifier, Diode, is bad. This will allow partial charging. You will not get full charging if one of the three internal rectifier circuits has a bad diode. A Diode is like a one way door, inside the rectifier it turns the ACV into DCV. So if one section is bad, then it will drop 30% of its charging current.
Get the battery tested. I assume it is full of electrolyte? That is an Acid pack that can very well be sold separately from the bat
tery. You fill, then let rest, then charge, again resting before install/ use.

I replaced damaged wires. I actually went through the entire wire harness. I replaced the r/r with a spare I had from another bike.
I have the battery charging again and will take tomorrow to be tested without putting in the bike first.... I keep charging it than doing my own testing and so its no longer fully charged so they tell me they can only test it if it is fully charged........

OK.... i may have found something but not sure and not sure of solution.

I bypassed the right hand controls(electric start/ kill switch/ect.

when I did this I took the yellow wire that connected to red and yellow to right contols and ran ran it directly to red and yellow bypassing the kill switch. the black wire that came from right controls I grounded to the frame.(this is where i think i made my mistake) I assumed the black was ground. Is it or is it not? On my wire diagram it shows black coming from pos. side of battery.
With that black wire to ground and a fully charged battery the bike will start right up.....
today I tried to rehook up right hand controls (with a spare from another kz) so eliminating my work around. I cant get the bike to start not even fire. but I ground that black wire and she starts right up with the kicker.
But im still having my battery drain fast with key on.
any thoughts?

I hope i explained this all well enough.

thank you all for your help?

Black/yellow is usually the ground.

Would check FILEBASE for a wiring diagram.




Good Fortune!

Black (Battery Vdc ~)is your conductor from the starter button to the starter relay in reference to black/yellow ground.