Advise needed coils/ignitor/pick-ups??

Hi everyone, some background.....

A while ago I planned to re-wire the old bike from top to bottom, but in the last few weeks didn't have any time to look at it, never mind touching any wires.
well last night I assembled the starter clutch and after I assembled everything else, switched on and hid the starter button to see if I made any progress.....and wtf!!
Nothing from the starter button. Short out the started selinoid (spelling??) and the engine turns BEAUTIFULL!!!

Now. After some investigation, I found the lights don't work at all. But the real issue is that I test over 12v on all 4 primary coil wires and the pick ups.

Does this mean that the coils,ignitor or pick-ups are shot?? Or hopefully! just a wiring issue?

Any advise will be hugely appreciated! (I don't have a manual yet, but who needs one if the best advise comes kzr!!)

Try to work on one circuit at a time. Then you can isolate the problem better.

The start circuit is completed by applying 12v to one of the small wires on the solenoid, while the other small wire is grounded. If the wiring is stock, then there is likely at least one interlock circuit on the clutch lever. On many KZ's, the 12v from the start button must go through the clutch switch before it goes to the solenoid.

Thanks
I did a quick check on them and got no reading from the starter button/clutch switch wires and up to the solenoid. Will work on that this weekend.
I'm still worried about the ignitor though. If it is burned, would that cause a 12v reading on all the negative wires at the coils and pick ups??

gmarais wrote: Thanks
I did a quick check on them and got no reading from the starter button/clutch switch wires and up to the solenoid. Will work on that this weekend.
I'm still worried about the ignitor though. If it is burned, would that cause a 12v reading on all the negative wires at the coils and pick ups??

It may be normal, but it could also be a lost ground connection to the igniter.

Ohm Checking Pickup(Pulsing) Coils

The pickup(Pulsing) coils on the Kawasaki’s with the factory supplied electronic ignition can sometimes fail or become intermittent due to heat and vibration.

1.Trace back from where the pick up coils are mounted,(BEHIND A RIGHT SIDE, CD SIZED COVER) locate and disconnect a small 4 pin connector. Using a multi-meter set on OHMS and range of 2K, check between the BLUE and BLACK wires(#1 and #4 sparkplug wires) for between 360- 540 OHMS.

2.For #2 and #3 sparkplugs the wire colors will be YELLOW and RED, again 360-540 OHMS. The 550’s,650’s & 750’s may be backwards to the Z1’s,Kz900’s,Kz1000’s & Kz1100’s.

3.If the pickup coils are suspect of failing due to heat, they can be stressed using a hair dryer without the need of the engine running.

4.A replacement set of pickup coils might be obtained from a dealer who serviced the police Kawasaki’s.

5. If replacement pickup coils are not available, your next choice would be to order a Dyna “S” electronic ignition system from www.z1enterprises.com It replaces the IC igniter with a smaller module located where the mechanical ignition advancer was mounted.

6. Checking with Kawasaki.com website has determined that the Pick up(pulsing) coils are available . The pulsing coil # is 59026-1133 and replaces the older # 1002, 1012 which were used from the MKII motors until the 2005 P24.

7.Check the small 4 pin connector that the pickup coils connect to for corrosion/loose pins too.

Thanks lou & mike. It turned out that I lost the ground connection close to the negative terminal. Cleaned it, tinned it and put the necessary back together again for a test. And it started up!!!!

What a relieve I don't have to go and search for electronic parts to replace!!!!

I guess I have to start a proper threat on the projects page as I'm asking questions all over the place.

Thanks again you guys are the best!

For ease of mind, do this to the many and various electrical connections:

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website. Or use any plastic safe electrical contact cleaner(NOT WD-40 !).

On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach. Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start.

Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you.

Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting). I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt

Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.

If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation.

Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........

“I spent a weekend going through every electrical connection and switch on the bike with a little scotchbrite pad and DeOxit - what a difference! Everything was brighter, gauge backlights, indicator lights, turn signals, I was getting a nicer spark, it fired up quicker, etc. Well worth my time. WELL worth it! “

From a forum member at www.kzrider.com

Yes I've seen this post before and I'm busy cleaning contacts and replacing damaged or hard wires from head to tail. During this process I also established that the front and back indicator wiring is missing, but will get that sorted sometime in the coming weeks.

Another question though: after I fixed up all the wiring, what would be the best way to cover the wiring from the headlight to the back? The PO wrapped it up with normal isolation tape and I don't want to go that route again if possible. After weeks gathering info from this site and spending almost as much time on the wiring, there should be a better way?

These are non sticky harness(or loom) tapes, designed to stick to themselves, rather tham make a oozing mess when they get hot like normal black tape does:

Electrical Wire Harness Tapes
www.pcsconnectors.com/harness_tape.aspx
www.deadnutson.com/catalog/item/2965331/6122491.htm
www.tapebrothers.com
www.wiringharness.com
www.findtape.com/shop/product.aspx?id=32...&width=1436&height=0


Another choice will be to use either the split or spiral wrap coverings available at auto parts stores with some tape sealing the ends.

I guess I would prefer the loom tape for beter protection to the harsh African conditions.

You are truly a mountain of knowledge and not shy to share any of it. With the advise from you and a couple others here I will get this beauty on the road in good time....budget permits

I have a good data base to tap, & knowledge from building wire harness from stratch for a defence contractor in San Diego when I lived there.

My background:

USAF 1966-1974, Aircraft Weapons Mechanic, troubleshot & repaired aircraft weapons release systems.

Elgar Corp, San Diego Ca. 1974-1983, wired & built large electrical power conditioning equipment.

General Dynamics/Convair division 1983-1993, initially built/wired missile test equipment for BGM-109 Tomahawk Cruise Missile, later the AGM-129 Advanced Cruise Missile, later did mechanical assembly on the last mentioned missile system.

WOW

That surely must have been amazing times for you. You're right, with that kind of platform I guess there's not much that anybody can teach you about wiring.

I'm more a mechanical type of guy, but I am about to reach that point where working out/sorting out the wiring is becoming more fun than frustrating...or rocket science. LOL