Best Battery for a 1979 KZ650B3?

1979 KZ650B3
1981 650CSR charging system

OK, so it looks like I've FINALLY got all the electrical gremlins sorted out on that @#$%^!!! KZ650.

Over the past 4 1/2 years, I've put three batteries in it, all to be eaten in short order. The current one has been dead as a doornail for the past year, but I was bound and determined not to put another one in until the electrical problems were worked out.

I've always just put the cheap batteries in from Wal-Mart.

I think now's the time to do better.

I checked at Batteries Plus. They list an XT10L-A2 for 1977-80 KZ650Cs, LTDs, and SRs, and 1980 KZ650Es, and an XT12A-A for 1981-83 KZ650H CSRs.

First, neither is a sealed battery, and that is what I would want, isn't it? What about gel? I tried a gel battery in my DR350 and it didn't last very long.

I'd like to spend less than a hundred bucks. What's my best option?

Also, I have no idea what the numbers on batteries stand for. Can someone educate me?

Thanks.

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What martin_csr said +1 !

Bike batteries need to be charged at LOW amperage. For example, the instructions for my Sears Diehard battery read something like this:

Slowly fill each cell to the upper level with electrolyte (acid)
Let battery stand 30 - 60 minutes before charging
Charge at 1.5 amps for 2 - 5 hours or at 2 amps 2 - 4 hours
Monitor battery while charging
Battery should read 12.70 volts
If using automatic battery charger and it shuts off before the time listed on chart do not charge any longer - let battery stand for up to 1 hour then check voltage
Charging your battery at a rate over 2 amps on any battery charge will shorten the life of your battery - do not exceed charging guidelines

seanof30306 wrote: 1979 KZ650B3
1981 650CSR charging system


I'd like to spend less than a hundred bucks. What's my best option?

Get the best quality wet cell, if possible with higher A-hr rating than stock. If you fill, charge, maintain it correctly it will have a long life. The gel cells and other types cost a lot more and have the same A-hr capacity. Their main advantage is they require little or no maintenance.

bountyhunter wrote: Get the best quality wet cell, if possible with higher A-hr rating than stock. If you fill, charge, maintain it correctly it will have a long life. The gel cells and other types cost a lot more and have the same A-hr capacity. Their main advantage is they require little or no maintenance.

Can you tell me
wWhat, exactly is the A-hr, and where do I find that rating in the numbers?

A-hr (or AH) is amp hour. It's a measure that can be used to compare the capacity of one battery to another. So, for example, my KZ650-C1 requires a battery rated at 10 AH, and that's the rating of the battery I am using. If I were compare that to a battery rated at let's say 12 AH my battery would not crank the starter as long as the 12 AH battery (assuming the bike wouldn't start before the battery was drained.) Both batteries would be rated at 12 volts so when fully charged they both would spin the starter at the same speed; it's just that the higher AH rated battery would be able to handle the load of the starter, lights, whatever, longer than the lower rated one before discharging. The AH rating should be marked on the battery.

FWIW... I've always had really good luck with NAPA batteries. I'm sure they are just a rebrand of something else, and they are more expensive than the walmart equivalent. I've had a napa battery in my KZ for 2 years now and have not touched it since. I neglect it all winter and it still cranks over fine after 3 months of sitting in the cold for the 2nd year now. I dont know how much of this good fortune is the battery and how much is my kz's alternator working well to keep it charged, but thats my 2 cents. I'll probably check my water levels soon just to make sure...

If you dont have your electrical gremlins all fixed then I dont think it will matter what battery you buy. And if everything is running well, even a cheap battery should last at least a couple of years I would think.

650ed wrote: Both batteries would be rated at 12 volts so when fully charged they both would spin the starter at the same speed; it's just that the higher AH rated battery would be able to handle the load of the starter, lights, whatever, longer

Not necessarily. Starters draw sp much current that the battery's internal impedance is important: even a brand new battery drops to about 10V cranking the starter. A higher A-hr battery typically has a lower impedance and the voltage doesn't drop as much under crank so it turns the starter a little better (especially cold). Also, longer life since you can push it farther into the wear out zone and still be usable.

A lot of times you can get different A-hr ratings in the same case size for more $$. IMHO, it's money well spent to get the highest and not just the stock replacement.

Thanks for the clarification. Ed