1977 kz900 w/kz1000 motor starter and charger prob

  • donthaveakawman
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02 Nov 2011 09:16 #486672 by donthaveakawman
my next door neighbor has a kz1000 engine on a kz900 frame 4 cylinder it wasnt holding a charge so we took it into a shop and the tech there tested the wire connector with an ohm meter and said he is going to be $500 down the drain to fix it he still rides on it though. it starts right up with a kickstart i dont think the starter is working either we are going to tinker with the timing when later today i found my timing light- we adjusted the timing so its not sputtering at 3k rpms and above so much- still needs help and we have a kz 550 owners manual that explains how to do such a thing on a bike. what i am wondering is; why is there a large wire that is exposed and touching metal coming out of the cover on the oposite side from the timing cover under the cylinders? is that where the starter or alternator is at mine has three not exposed wires coming out of that spot and it does fine. also if we pull that cover off are we going to need to drain the oil and find a gasket for it too? if anyone has seen agent skilly and agent motor from the kz files let them know to give us a call. thanks

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  • TeK9iNe
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02 Nov 2011 12:06 #486691 by TeK9iNe
Sounds to me like you need to purchase some correct manuals.
$500 is a hell o lot, to replace a stator, or Rectifier/Regulator and rewire some shit.
Find a real mechanic.

Good luck.

B)

Motorcycle Shop Owner/Operator

79 Kawie Z1000 LTD
81 Kawie Z1000 CSR
83 Honda VT750C A
85 Kawie GPZ900 A2
86 Zukie GS1150 EG
93 Yamie XV1100 E
Lucky to have rolled many old bikes through my doors ;)

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02 Nov 2011 14:44 #486706 by MFolks
Starter Motor Removal

Looking at my shop manual it says to remove:

1.The fuel tank.

2.Carbs.

3.Cam chain tensioner cap and pull out the spring and push rod stop.

4.Remove the shaft and reduction gear.

5.Remove the starter motor retaining bolts (2).

6.Pry the starter motor loose from the crankcase with a screwdriver.

7.Slide the starter motor off towards the right side of the engine and lift it upwards.

There's a note stating "DO NOT TAP ON THE STARTER MOTOR SHAFT OR BODY, TAPPING MAY DAMAGE THE SHAFT OR MOTOR.

8.Slide out the rubber cap, remove the starter motor terminal nut and lock washer, and take the lead off the motor.



Starter Solenoid/Motor Checkout Procedure

Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:

1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).

2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.

3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight. If the cables feel “Crunchy” when flexed, they may have corrosion inside the insulation, requiring replacement.

4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.

6.Try again to start the bike, keep in mind some Kawasaki’s have a clutch interlock to prevent cranking the engine while it’s in gear, so the clutch lever must be squeezed.

7.If no luck, go to step #8

8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.

9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. A website for starter motors is:

A. www.psep.biz/store/mitsuba_starter_motors_page_2.htm

B. www.nationsautoelectric.com/Kawasaki.html

C. www.whitedogbikes.com/cat--Kawasaki-Star...-Starter-Motors.html

D. www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/starters.php

10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit. Be aware that the new solenoid from the lawn mower shop may require a ground wire for it to work.

11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.

12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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02 Nov 2011 15:18 #486708 by Jack
I'll go along with using the best cable you can for battery connections- another source for high quality wire & terminals etc. is high end audio shops. That's where I found the ring end terminals for the #6 wires in my starter system.

79 KZ 1075 MKll
79 KZ 1500 MKll dragbike
Gone but not forgotten:
3 X 73 Z1's
1 X 74 Z1A
1 X 75 Z1B

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  • donthaveakawman
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07 Nov 2011 05:08 #487385 by donthaveakawman
Replied by donthaveakawman on topic 1977 kz900 w/kz1000 motor starter and charger prob
well i found my multimeter and it shows volts going to the bare wire that goes in the side of the motor from the starter solenoid with the key off so that tells me its a bad solenoid

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  • donthaveakawman
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31 May 2012 02:21 #526042 by donthaveakawman
Replied by donthaveakawman on topic 1977 kz900 w/kz1000 motor starter and charger prob
well he got it fixed at the shop thanks anyways.

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