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  • Motor Head
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08 Nov 2011 01:06 - 08 Nov 2011 01:09 #487529 by Motor Head
Replied by Motor Head on topic almost
OK just had another clearer look at the diagram I posted for you. The Wire that is the Red/ white with bullet, should got to a connector, to the fuse panel. At the Main fuse, where here it turns white and runs up to the Ignition switch.
Here is the section of the wiring diagram.



The wiring diagram I posted, can you view that very well? If not, Drag it to the desk top of your computer, and then go to that copy and open it with a picture viewing editing program. If you don't have one Picassa From Google is free to down load.

1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
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Last edit: 08 Nov 2011 01:09 by Motor Head.
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16 Nov 2011 15:53 #488804 by locolobo
Replied by locolobo on topic almost
got it....everything is fine except no running lite or liscense plate light and when i press on rear brake pedal nothing....when i hit front brake lever have brake lite...this is the only thing holding me up...thanx to everyone for their help...couldnt have gotten this far without it....
doug

locolobo

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28 Nov 2011 01:09 #490471 by locolobo
Replied by locolobo on topic almost
a...yel/blk dble male b..wht/red hooked to itself ....i swear.....c....ignitor...blk and blu 2pin connector cant find where it connects to anything.....d....wht/rd dble male positive to batt
e...wht/red male....assumes it attached to the dble male to pos on batt
f...goes to rect.....g....2 orange wires connects to nothing.....

plus i think my starte clutch is shot...not enuff power to turn starter fast to fire....i guess i dont knw...im as newb as newb can be...i do knw im ready to give up.....cant get none of my so called bike friends to help...so now i dont have any bike friends left...i helped them enuff...who needs em....thanks guys....u dont knw how much...
peace

k22 is from the ignition cover....looks a lil worn to me....cant really tell in pic but its barely above the black silicone casing?

locolobo
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28 Nov 2011 01:17 #490473 by Motor Head
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"k22 is from the ignition cover....looks a lil worn to me....cant really tell in pic but its barely above the black silicone casing?"
That is the Pick-up coil, that connects to the Ignitior box. It looks normal in your somewhat fuzzy picture. But your Book will have a test for it. You measure the amount of resistance with an OHM meter. A hand held test meter, Volts, OHM's, etc. Called a DVOM, Digital Volt OHM Meter.
But if it Started and ran, I wouldn't suspect an Issue with the Pick-up coil. It would not start, or act up when hot, if it had problems.

1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
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28 Nov 2011 01:18 #490475 by Patton
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1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD

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30 Nov 2011 15:30 - 30 Nov 2011 15:33 #490847 by loudhvx
Replied by loudhvx on topic almost
Your bike, if it is like the West GErman bike, has an ignition interlock system. This kills the ignition if the kickstand is down and you are in gear. The system controls the ignition through the pink wire on the ignition module. To bypass the interlock, I'm pretty sure you can just ground the pink wire on the igniter. That means connect the pink wire to the black/yellow wire on the igniter.

The interlock system has been known to get flakey and cause erratic ignition.

You may also want to bypass the starter interlock as I have it drawn on the bare bones diagram.

I don't see a yellow/black wire on the diagram (thanks to Biquetoast for posting it, and MotorHead for finding it). At least I haven't found it yet.

I will post another diagram for you in the mattylight thread including the pink wire on the igniter.

And yes, (from PM) you can use the HEI igniter mod. According to Kawasaki.com, you have the mechanical advancer. The details for the HEI mod for twins are in the link on my signature. It's down at the bottom of the page. If you use that mod, you will just be eliminating the pink wire.
Last edit: 30 Nov 2011 15:33 by loudhvx.
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  • TeK9iNe
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30 Nov 2011 16:14 #490852 by TeK9iNe
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The battery should be between 12.6 - 12.8 Volts DC after resting several hours (no trying to start or charging). If the battery is low - charge with a powersport rated intelligent maintenence charger that wont go over 2amp, anything higher will fry the battery.

The charging system on the old bikes just maintain the battery while running, and dont really charge it till the rpms are up some around full advance like 3500rpm+, while cruising just maintains.

If after the battery is fully charged and has sat for a while, it should read good 12.6+. If it reads 12V - its only going to put out about 2/3rd power under heavy load (most cases) - getting old battery. If it reads 11 anything is almost shot and should be replaced.

Make sure batt is filled correctly to full line on each cell only with distilled water for top up.

Goodluck!

B)

Motorcycle Shop Owner/Operator

79 Kawie Z1000 LTD
81 Kawie Z1000 CSR
83 Honda VT750C A
85 Kawie GPZ900 A2
86 Zukie GS1150 EG
93 Yamie XV1100 E
Lucky to have rolled many old bikes through my doors ;)

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