TOPIC:

www.z1enterprises.com/DynaS-Electronic-I...Z900-KZ1000-200.aspx
Yes it does, but the Plate would not fit directly to your bike. The pick-up would have to be bolted, probably to your Stock plate. Then there is still the Cam, yours is for the points to open and close, where you need the one for trigger. Maybe the one I posted from Feebay will fit? Don't know, thought Steele would.
Dyna has a good web site and an email could answer questions.

Been busy

Just happen to have the ignition pickup and the igniter laying here on the desk, and I think I know where the advancer is. I think I have another complete electronic ignition on a parts 750 twin, if I do then I'll have an extra one I can let go.
Won't be able to look until Tuesday though, medical crap in Indy tomorrow.

750steve wrote: This is a run on from another thread which was getting off subject so it was suggested i start a new thread. I didn't even know you could convert my bike to an electronic ignition. What are it's advantages besides less adjustment & wear on the points?, does it give a better spark & run better?

I then came across this on the Twins Owners Forum & it seems quite good. I was wondering which would be the better setup?
www.armbell.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12...start=0&mforum=kz400
This also seems to have an electronic Tacho output, i'll be needing that too as im replacing my clocks.


Thank you for all your help so far guys.

IMHO, no a 750 B2 will not run any better with electronic ignition COMPARED TO THE STOCK IGNITION WORKING CORRECTLY. That last caveat escapes many, 30 year old coils often do not work very well but that doesn't mean you need a conversion to electronic ignition or a giant bypass wire + relay to put the battery voltage on the coil terminal. Spend $36 on the EMGO (4 Ohm) coil at Z1 and install that first.

Electronic igs do have the grace of no points to wear out which means less frequent maintenance. They do not increase spark energy which is defined by the primary inductance of the coil winding.

\DYNA makes an add on electronic ig for the older points style ignitions that eliminates the high current through the points so they last forever. About $50 on ebay.

www.dynaonline.com/skins/products/sportbikes/boosters/

steell wrote: Been busy

its that Avatar isn't it

That avatar puts me in a trance as well sometimes!


So, differing opinions here, strong ones too!

Steell, when you're able to & in your own time let me know how much you want for the bits we're talking about please. Do i need to buy a new coil as well as your CDI bits?

Just a thought;

Would it be a good idea to replace the points & condensor (not the coil) for the minute & then pick up the CDI bits as i go along, then i can compare the 2 for myself? After all this is a learning curve for me.

An update from the other thread for peoples future reference;

loudhvx wrote: There are several options. In the order I would choose them:

1. Convert to a stock electronic ignition from a 440 or 750 twin. This requires the timing advancer/rotor, the pickup/timing plate, the igniter, and a 2.3 or 2.2 ohm coil. The factory coil for this type is 2.3 ohms. Dyna sells a 2.2 ohm,(gray)coil that matches nicely. You might be able to use a 3-ohm coil with no problem as well. You can get most of the parts on ebay. Last year, someone on the twins forum was a selling a collection of these parts cheap, except for the igniter. But you can easily make the igniter from an HEI ignition module, and it's cheap. home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/Ignition/GPZgmHEImod.html
Advantages: More reliable. No electronic components mounted to engine. No points to adjust. Parts available. Igniter is cheap and abundant. Coil does not use any power when crank is not turning, even if ignition is turned on. Very efficient with power consumption especially at idle, while still giving strong spark.
Disadvantage: Still uses mechanical advancer for timing. If HEI module is to be used, requires sourcing a couple of common electrical parts.


2. Convert a 4-cylinder Dyna S ignition for use on a twin. You should be able to find details for this on the twins website. Basically you take a Dyna S ignition, (I'm not sure if you take one for a 900/1000/1100 or one from a 550/650/750), and use 1/2 of it. I think you have to drill a couple holes to get it to line up. You can buy one that is broken where only one of the pickups works, and you can probably get that dirt cheap if you can find it. You will also need the rotor from the Dyna S. You will need a coil that is 3-ohm or 4 -ohm or 5-ohm.
Advantages: More reliable than points. No points to adjust. Possibly cheaper than using Kaw electronic system. Can use a wider range of coils including stock points coil. Dyna S abundantly available. Longest dwell available at higher RPMs. No external igniter module required. Dyna is a good company to deal with.
Disadvantages: Still uses mechanical advancer. Wastes electrical power, especially at idle because of inefficient dwell structure. Dangerous to coil or igniter if ignition is left on with crank not turning. Uses electronic components mounted to engine, so less robust than Kaw system.


3. Use points to trigger an HEI module. This uses the stock points and coil, but adds an HEI module to create the spark. This allows the points to virtually last forever, and need very little to no adjustment thereafter. It will just need an occasional quick wipe-through with a rag to clean them. This could be done at the same time the advancer gets lubed, maybe once a year. It requires a bit more external electronic components to be soldered together as an adapter, but that is about it. No expensive parts are needed. This is a good project for someone who likes tinkering or playing with electronics. It was a very common project back in the day. I think they were called ignition amplifiers. It can use 2.2-ohm, 2.3-ohm, 3-ohm, 4-ohm, or 5-ohm coils. There are several options available for this project.
home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/Ignitio...heiModForPoints.html
Advantages: No points adjustment needed after initial adjustment. Timing and dwell won't change over time. Cheap. Can use a wider range of coils. Can be made so that there is no coil current when crank is not turning when ignition is on.
Disadvantages: Still uses mechanical advancer. Still requires initial point setup. Requires a little bit of electrical construction.


4. Boyer-Bransden supposedly has an ignition for the 750 twin. I know very little about it. I only worked with one of their ignitions on a BSA. It did work, but seemed very finicky. The construction was unimpressive, and the wires were so thin it seemed if you looked at it too hard they would break. The big advantage here is that it has electronic advance... but I can't say for sure it's the proper advance. It was also pretty pricey, if I recall. I don't know what coils are recommended for it. Someone on the twins forum will probably know about it.
Advantage: Electronic advance.
Disadvantage: Expensive.


5. Then there is the electronic system from the KZtwin forum. I don't really know what to call it since there was no company name, unless I missed it. Maybe the company is called 7thgear, as that's the link on the seller's signature. It seems to be one guy, but I'm confused as to whether he developed it, or he had someone else develop it for him. Early on he says he developed it, but then when questions are asked, he often says he has to refer to the manual, or speak to the developer. Maybe he owns the company, but has an engineer working for him. I'm not sure. But his system seems to be getting good reviews, and, for now, at least, he seems able to respond to questions etc. The main advantage with this one is that it uses electronic advance. The main disadvantage is cost and possibly product support, as the company seems very young. (1 or 2 years?)
www.armbell.com/kz400/viewtopic.php?t=12...tart=60&mforum=kz400


I will have to go back through the thread and check out the links from Motorhead and Mfolks, when I have more time.

Number 1 it is then!

1 thing i have learned in life is to listen to people who know better than me!

Just 1 thing though, between no's 1 & 5 i dont think there is going to be that much cost difference. By loosely calculating the sum of the parts for number 1 mod i think it'll come to somewhere between $? & $265 depending on what Steve needs to buy his kit.
Number 5 mod costs $295 shipped to me, as you say though, i dont know how reliable it is yet.


Which leads do i use with the CDI Dyna Coil setup? Suppressed or copper core? & which plug caps, resistor or non resistor?

I should emphasize, that I would use #1 only because to me, (and I know, probably Steell too), money is an object. For whom it is no object, probably #5 would be the best bet. Electronic advance can give quite an improvement over mchanical advance in engine performance.

Mechanical advance is really just a two-stage advance, where the only part in question is the transfer from the low-RPM advance to the high-RPM advance. It is very difficult (impossible?) to make a mechanical advancer match exactly what is best for the engine, so manufacturers had to make compromises with a mechanical advance. Basically they have the idle advance and the high-RPM advance, and the only real thing they play with is where, and how fast it changes from one to the other. The transfer happens at a relatively low RPM. Then from here on up, the advance is static. With a digital advance mechanism, based on a lookup algorithm, you can tailor the advance to what the motor wants.

In between mechanical advance, and digital advance, you have electronic advance which is analog. This is better suited to making power than mechanical advance, but there are still compromises made. Some of the GPz bikes had electronic advance. There you could see that it was actually desireable to have some form of advance all the way to redline. With mechanical advance, it's "all-in" relatively early on, and one of the compromises is that you have to use less total advance so that a lower RPMs you don't get knock. The electronic advance allows more total advance at higher RPMs without having knock at lower RPMs.

So really, if money is not an object, and you want more performance, I would try #5.

For a cheap, simple, ignition I would use #1 as long as parts are available to you. In the U.S., they seem more common.

And I certainly don't want to make it sound like the other options are out of the question. They are all known to work, so it's more about what your comfortable with. Some people don't want to be bothered with sourcing and soldering parts. It can take time etc. I wouldn't blame anyone for just getting everything in one place at one time and throwing it on the bike.

Have you considered just trying the points ignition to see if it works? Or is it in bad shape?

Oh money is an object to me & there is still money to be spent in clocks, respray, powdercoating, various accessories as well, im even going to attempt the wiring myself (that should be a fun thread ).
Just as you say those parts are basically non existant here in the UK & the shipping charges from USA are, understandibly, astronomical sometimes! A grey 2.2-ohm dyna coil here in the UK, for example, seems to be £95 to £130! (thats $150 - $200). All im trying to do is be cost effective, i've bought & shipped parts before & then realised with the shipping money i could have upgraded anyway. My $150 Z1 order incurred a $55 Shipping charge, then another $40 customs charge here in the UK.
I also took a step back from the £550 ISR levers i thought i'd like to buy, i ended up with a free clutch lever & perch off a 2009 Kawasaki ER6, i was also given its front master cylinder with intergal reservoir FOC...that made me happy!

Performance is not such an issue, good running is. I have an 07 ZX6R race only bike for when i want some speed.

Yes the ignition point is done, or near it, the bike started ok & ran ok but its slightly off on the left cylinder. I cant do valve clearances due to lack of knowledge so a friend that can work on these things is doing that for me & he advised a replacement condensor & point.

As this is a project & may take a long time i might very well just buy that point & condensor to get me running & i can buy a CDI kit sometime, whichever 1 it ends up being.

Motor Head did kindly offer for the parts to go to him & he would ship them, if he were not to do that the shipping alone on the parts he has listed would be in the region of $70, then another $25 from Z1 to ship the coil.

Maybe im not thinking straight, its a common trait with me, & maybe im even runing away with my own thoughts, but im just trying to spend wisely & you guys are the best experience & knowledge out there. I'd seriously be lost without your guidance.

Also, another minor thing. I noticed the #5 system has an output for digital clocks, i'll need that for the clock im hoping to buy. Is it possible to do the same with the #1 setup?, that is to solder a lead on to give an electronic readout? I know the clock has a feed that can be wrapped around, i think its an HT lead or something, but this would be a bit unsightly.
#5 seems to have less electrics to hide as well.

By Clock, do you mean Tachometer? If so it should have a pick-up point on the Negative side of the Ignition coil, which ever system is used.
Offer still stands, if you organize some stuff, you want from the USA. I can compile and ship in One box, to save you a couple of, what Pounds? You use Pounds or Euro's?