Solder KZ900 stator wires back together?

My KZ900 has an oil leak where in that rubber part that the stator wires poke through. I bought the new rubber part and carefully cut the stator wires. I thought the wires were strands but they're solid core. It doesn't seem like soldering them back together will be very sturdy. Shall I use crimp connectors instead?

I don't know which side or how close to the grommet you are working. But to re-solder clean the wires off, get the coating removed with some sandpaper/ emery. You need Rosin Core, 60/40 Solder, and a Rosin Flux. I would take the plastic off of a Butt connecter, install some heat shrink, then crimp the wires. then use some flux, and solder the crimp with the wires in it. Slid the heat shrink over the repair, and of course shrink it.
Where you cut them and are working may make things difficult?????

I cut the wire a couple of inches from where they exit the stator cover. It just seems like soldering two solid core wires together would be difficult - and I don't know much about soldering. I just bought a soldering iron for this job.

Thanks for the info!

If you can do a slight overlap of the two clean solid wires(no wire varnish, just clean and shiney) and cover in heat shrink tubing. It should work.

The soldering iron should be at least 35-50 watts in size, and the soldering iron tip will need wiping with a damp rag or sponge to keep the tip cleaned of corrosion, as at this high of a temperature (about 750 F or so)the solder quickly oxidizes.

On a brand new unusued soldering iron, the tip must be coated with solder or "tinned" for correct heat transfer. To do it, just plug in the iron,let it get up to operating temperature, and then carefully apply some rosin core solder to the tip,wiping the excess off with the rag or wet sponge.

When getting ready to solder, take some rubbing alcohol and wipe about 5-6" with a paper towel, removing the fingerprint oils from the solder, and then after the wires have been cleaned and in position for soldering, put some rosin flux on the wires & carefully apply heat and solder to the joints.

If conditions are all met for being clean and hot, the soldered joint should be smooth,no voids,or excess solder.

If space permits, best practice is to make a physical connection as well as soldering the connection. It is in this way that the splice will be virtually as strong as the original conductor. The completed splice should then be covered with heat shrink tubing, due to exposure to heat and oils. An example of a physical connection is attached, good luck!

Thanks for the help - physical connection will be easy to do. I just cleaned up and clear coated the engine covers today. This weekend I'll put the stator cover back on and get to work on soldering.