My 1977 KZ1000A1 is not making enough charge.

Hi,

I bought my KZ1000A1 about eight months ago. It had about 33,000 miles on it and needed some TLC. It is a work in progress and I am gradually trying to make it a clean dependable ride. So far, I have only cleaned it up, changed the oil, installed a chrome passenger grab bar, headlight rim, battery, kurakyn LED voltage meter and moved the front signal lights from the handle bars to their original position on each side of the headlight. My next and biggest challenge is fixing its electrical output problem. It only shows about 10 volts or less charge when running without the headlight and about 5 volts with the headlight on. I am somewhat mechanical and I don't want to spend the money for the labor to have someone else find the problem. I would rather spend that money on the new parts that it is probably going to need anyway. In addition, I am a little intimidated by electrical systems and would rather replace likely components than have to do extensive testing to pinpoint the problem - at least intially. Based on my bike's mileage, age and symptoms - what part or parts are the most likely cause of this charging problem and in what order would you check or replace these parts if you did not intially want to do extensive testing of the electrical system?

Welcome to KZR,
Do you have a Manual, preferably the Kawasaki one, for your bike? Basic test equipment, volt ohm meter and test light, jumper leads?
If checked already what is the voltage across the battery @ 4K rpm?
Here is a link to your wiring diagram in"File Base":
www.kzrider.com/filebase/cat_view/95-197...-kawasaki-kz-1000-a1
This is the charging system. you need to find your current voltage level, then if you un-plug the small brown wire at the regulator/ rectifier the voltage should rise to over 15v. If not then of course check all of the connections. But the 3 wires coming from the stator will need checking for proper ACV, any combination of the 3 should have about 54 ACV.

I'm Chasing a charging problem myself but the local guy told me to put a multi meter on the battery rev it to 4500 and see how many volys it reads 14.5-15.5V your good below that unplug the green voltage reglator if it goes up your regulator is bad i had a friend who's 77 charging system was wore out probably needed a stator and when he unplugged his it was within range he rode it that way for a year then sold it with no probs however there is a gut on here who is currently giving me all the right answers for chasing my charging/voltage/ground problems sent me to a site www.electrosport.com has a great troubleshooting section

ramtough_63 wrote: I'm Chasing a charging problem myself but the local guy told me to put a multi meter on the battery rev it to 4500 and see how many volys it reads 14.5-15.5V your good below that unplug the green voltage reglator if it goes up your regulator is bad i had a friend who's 77 charging system was wore out probably needed a stator and when he unplugged his it was within range he rode it that way for a year then sold it with no probs however there is a gut on here who is currently giving me all the right answers for chasing my charging/voltage/ground problems sent me to a site www.electrosport.com has a great troubleshooting section

that sounds a little high, if u rev it and the v's increase as u rev then its charging, 15.5 sounds a little much

Thanks for the info. I have a test light, and some manuals that came with it - an old Clymer manual and a Kawasaki KZ1000 manual, but I think it is for 1982 KZ1000.

The wire color at the stator will be different, otherwise it is the same. Three phase permanent magnet. The later has 3 yellow wires instead of the pink/ blue/ yellow. Testing is the same.
You need the first test, charged battery, then how much DCV across the battery @4K RPM.

yeah he did say 15.5 was def the high side

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website.

On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach. Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start. Some of these older bikes are showing signs of the solder joints crumbling in the switches, so to repair the soldering, get some rosin flux(not acid flux!) and with a 25 watt soldering iron, touch up the connection.

Usually a spritz or two of the contact cleaner with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you.

Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting). I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt

Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.

If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation.

Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........






Why WD-40 Should Not Be Used On Motorcycle Electrical Items.

For many years, I was proponent of the use of WD-40 on fuse clips, fuses, switches and connectors. After hearing of other peoples experience with intermittent and sporadic activity, I shrugged it off as maybe they did something wrong in the application of the product.

It wasn’t until the time I rode my 1982 GPz1100 B2 model to downtown San Diego that I encountered the problems others had gone through.

After concluding my business downtown, I walked to where my bike was parked, turned the key to unlock the forks, and prepared to start the engine. The key was in the "On" position, yet I had no lights in the dash panel, the fuel pump was not running(I have FI), and the horn and tail light were not working.

Puzzled as to why nothing electrical was happening, I remember my earlier conversations about how WD-40 will over time become a non-conductor(more like an insulator). I had some pieces of 400 and 600 grit sandpaper in my tool kit and with them was able to scratch away the coating from the WD-40 on the fuses and clips.

After removing the insulating film, the bike started and ran like it should. Since that time, I’ve told people about the problem with WD-40. If you must use a contact cleaner, I recommend getting some "De-oxit" from Radio Shack Stores or any good electronic supply store.

Alternator Testing For the Older 4’s(Z1’s,Kz 900’s, Kz1000’s,Kz1100’s and GPz1100’s).

To check to see if the alternator is working you need to follow these simple steps:

1. Fully charge the battery as this will be the power source during this test.

2. Disconnect the Regulator/Rectifier at the plug that has the six wires in it.

3. Start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature.

4. If you're worried about overheating, position a large fan for cooling the engine.

5. After the engine has reached operating temperature, have a helper assist you, and using a multi-meter, read the output at the three yellow wires (or the alternator output wires)at the disconnected connector.

6. Raise the engine speed to 4000 rpm, and see what the three YELLOW wire combinations(or any alternator output wires) are(1-3, 2-3 & 1-2). The output will be around 50 Volts A.C.(Alternating Current). BE CAREFUL, AS THERE IS A SHOCK HAZARD HERE!!

7. If any of the combinations are low or non-existent, the stator(wire windings) are bad and must be replaced. Some of the older Z1’s and KZ900’s were reported to be phase sensitive, so check the wire colors carefully.

8. Using an OHMETER, Check the three wire combinations again, looking for a reading of 0.36 - 0.54 OHMS. If the readings are above or below, the stator may be bad and need replacement. Also check from any of the three YELLOW wires to ground, this will show if arcing took place. Check only with the engine off !!

9. Before ordering a new stator, check the connections from the stator as there are electrical "Bullet" connectors that may be damaged or dirty. Inspect the wiring for signs of shorting or overheating too. www.z1enterprises.com sells replacement rubber grommets for the alternator output wiring, they get hard and could leak oil after a while.

10. Check the wiring coming out of the grommet as there have been situations where the wires were damaged causing a short(I.E. twisted together with insulation damage).

11. The sprocket cover will have to be removed to access the electrical connectors coming from the alternator, the left foot peg assembly and shifting lever will have to come off also.



Alternator Stator Replacement On the Older 4’s
Source for replacement Stators:

A. www.electrosport.com/technical-resources.../fault-finding-guide
B. www.customrewind.com
C. www.rmstator.com
D. www.ricksmotorsportselectrics.com
E. www.regulatorrectifier.com

1. If by testing either by checking the output voltage from the stator or by using and ohmmeter for resistance and the stator is determined to be bad, replacing the stator is not a difficult job.

2. The motorcycle owner should have on hand a replacement alternator gasket as it will tear on removal and leak if reused.

3. Put the bike on the center stand if possible and lean it to the right to minimize the oil volume that could come out when the alternator cover is removed.

4. Have selection of Metric wrenches and sockets along with Metric Allen keys to be able to accomplish this repair. ¼" and 3/8" ratchets and extensions may be needed along with Allen bits.

5. Remove the gear shift lever, the sprocket cover and possibly the left foot peg assembly.

6. A catch pan for what little oil will be lost should be positioned under the alternator on the left side. Newspapers will soak up any oil lost or some kitty litter will do as an absorbent.

7. Remove the alternator cover fasteners, some bikes use a socket head cap screw(Allen type) and others use the Phillips head type, the #3 screwdriver bit fits best for those. Use a small dish or can to collect the removed fasteners from the parts to prevent loss/damage.

8. The alternator stator is secured to the inside of the cover usually with three Allen headed bolts, Some bikes may have Torx style fasteners, Remove them and disconnect the three yellow wires that have bullet connectors on them from the bundled wires inside the sprocket cover.

9. If your bike has some color other than yellow for the alternator output wires, make note of what goes where as the older Kawasaki’s were phase sensitive in regard to the regulator/rectifiers.

10. When installing the replacement stator, clock or position the output wires and grommet so they fit into the small port under the alternator cover without being pinched or damaged.

11. Tighten the three Allen or Torx fasteners, securing the replacement stator to the cover. I like using the BLUE Loctite # 242 for hardware that can be removed with hand tools.

12. Remove the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the alternator cover and engine case by scraping with a piece of sharpened plastic like Lexan or Plexi-glass as these will not gouge the soft Aluminum Cases. Avoid using a metal gasket scraper for this.

13. Position the alternator cover, checking for pinched wiring and install the fasteners with a little silver anti-seize on the threads, tightening to the correct torque.

14. Connect up the output wires to the mating female bullet connectors and while you’re in there, check the routing of the wire bundle that runs through there.

15. Inspect for signs of heat damage to the wire insulation and vibration damage too.

16. The side stand switch, neutral switch, and oil pressure switch wiring are all bundled with the alternator output wiring running above and behind the engine output sprocket. This bundle runs in a channel as it goes up toward the various electrical connections.

17. The regulator/rectifier plug on the 80’s bikes usually has six wires in it:

A. One (1)WHITE with RED stripe, this is the bikes main power wire usually 12 gauge in size.

B. One(1) smaller Brown wire, probably 18 gauge or so, the voltage sense wire for the regulator/rectifier, helps keeping it from overcharging the battery.

C. One(1) BLACK with YELLOW stripe wire, part of the ground circuits, maybe 16 gauge in size.

D. Three(3) YELLOW wires, maybe 14 gauge in size, the alternator output wires going to the regulator/rectifier which converts the Alternating Current(A.C.) to Direct Current(D.C.) using rectification, producing the power to run the motorcycle and charge the battery.

18. Reinstall the sprocket cover, again checking for pinched wires before tightening. Install the shifter on it’s splined shaft checking for proper location, and the left side foot peg assembly.

19. Except for the minor oil spill and reluctant fasteners, it’s not a very difficult job to do.

i have a '76 900 a4, I have upgraded to the reg./rect. combo. My bike runs fine on a fully charged battery then goes dead all of a sudden. How can I test the alternator output at the battery with the regulator off while the rect. is intact?

thadley55 it would be better for you to start a New thread, it will get more views, and responses.
Also you changed to a Combo R/R is that the aftermarket 5 wire or a Kawasaki part, possibly the 6 wire?
First check is to test the battery, make sure it is fully charged. Then test Voltage across the battery with engine at 4K RPM. then checking the Stator ACv output before going to the R/R.
Is the R/R properly connected? Good Ground?

Hi All,

I just wanted to update my thread and let everyone know how I resolved my charging problem. Well, I found a forum posted in the forum history of this site with someone with a KZ650 that was having similar issues as I was having with my bike. That person resolved the problem with a regulator/rectifier combo from Z1 Enterprises. As a result, I took a gamble and ordered a regulator/rectifier combo unit from Z1 Enterprises online. I received the part quickly by regular mail and installed it myself in about two hours - including the removal of the old units and the trip to the auto parts to get the longer bolts that the new unit required for installation. Fortunately, the new combo unit plugs right into the existing wiring and factory plug. The hardest part of the job was cleaning and sanding the main ground wire before adding the ground wire from the combo unit. After installing it, I started the bike and it immediately began charging at the proper levels as indicated by my voltage gauge - Thank God! and Thank God! for the KZR Forum and all its helpful members!

Dave