Dyna-S vs. Loudhvx igniter mod

Converting to 3-phase is easy. You just get a 3-phase stator from a later 650 or some 750's, but I'mnot sure exactly which models physically fit. Then you also need reg/rec from one of the 3-phase models. You may have to add one wire, that is a brown wire, onto the harness to accept the new reg/rec with 6-wires, unless you get an aftermarket, 3-phase reg/rec with 5 wires.

I know Clutch is already tired of hearing the pro's and con's to each type of system, but there is one more, that I'm not sure if he is aware of... That is the fact that the Dyna S is powering the coils anytime the ignition is getting power. It's easy to forget to turn off the key when troubleshooting lights etc, and som have reported melting their coils. You have to remember to kill the ignition or turn off the kill switch.

The Kaw system, (and HEI version) automatically turn off the coil power any time the crank stops turning.

There are no charging problems I am aware of, the alternator on my 1980 engine is off of the original 81 650 that came in the bike.

Guess I'm just lucky the alternator was from an 81 H1 csr

loudhvx wrote: I know Clutch is already tired of hearing the pro's and con's to each type of system, but there is one more, that I'm not sure if he is aware of... That is the fact that the Dyna S is powering the coils anytime the ignition is getting power. It's easy to forget to turn off the key when troubleshooting lights etc, and som have reported melting their coils. You have to remember to kill the ignition or turn off the kill switch.

Oh no, I always want to know what to keep an eye on, or look out for. I did end up ordering a dyna-s from Z1 for the bike. I figured that I already have the right coils installed, and it will be a faster and easier fix to get my bike back on the road. I will also be making a new wiring harness for the entire ignition system, which will hopefully motivate me to finish rewiring the entire bike (a project I had hoped to tackle last winter...but never started...it was cold! LOL!) :woohoo:

But keep posting on this thread, as it may help others searching for answers! I will be posting pics of installing, rewiring, and adjusting the timing for the dyna-s once it gets here in a couple days as well.

~Clutch

Websites for the electrical connectors:
www.easternbeaver.com
www.vintageconnections.com
www.z1enterprises.com/catalog.aspx?pid=KPEL1
www.electricalconnection.com/electrical-components/hitachi.htm
www.hvccycle.com/electrical-connectors.html
www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination&page=1
www.crowbarelectricalparts.com/butt_connectors.htm
www.ironbutt.org/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1759&PN=1
www.ratwell.com/technical/Terminals.html
www.economycycle.com/servlet/the-Bullet-...lectrical/Categories

www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination
(The Good, Bad, & Ugly Wire Crimpers)

So I got my Dyna-S yesterday, and installed today. Here is the install:


Timing cover removed...remove the 3 screws at 12, 4, and 8 o'clock to remove the stock ignition plate.


Next, you need to unscrew the terminal on top of the oil pressure sensor and remove the wire.


Using a 12mm wrench, loosen the bolt holding the mechanical advancer on. Remove the advancer, and replace the timing cam with the one provided with the Dyna-S. The picture shows this step done and the advancer re-installed. After that, attach the blue wire provided with the kit to the oil pressure sensor.


The space between the rear of the engine and frame was too tight to squeeze this connector through. I couldn't remove the individual connectors from the plastic part, so I ended up cutting this to remove it.

Next, connect all wires. The blue wire connects to where you disconnected the oil sensor wire from. The red wire should be connected to a wire that only has power when the off/run/off switch is in the on position. I did this by using a blade connector and using the red wire from the ic Igniter harness. The white wire connects to the BLACK coil wire, and the black to the GREEN coil wire. There were small plastic green and black rings on the wires to help distinguish them. Next you should check your static timing. Only use the 17mm nut to turn the engine.


Lastly, start the engine and check the dynamic timing. Luckily, the mail came with my timing light, right as a finished the static timing (another type of good timing! LOL! :woohoo: ). If you set the static timing properly, this should be spot on too. The pic is of dynamic timing on my bike!



My bike seems to idle MUCH smoother and cleaner now (I was having ignition issues prior to swapping to the Dyna-S). I have not had a chance to test ride yet because it is raining here today