killswitch problems?

bikes turns over but will not start. i have no spark at all. at all! lol..if a kill switch is faulty could that be my problem? if so how do i check my kill switch? thanks alot!

got a volt meter ???

yea

Open up the right handlebar switch pod, you should see two wires going to the run/stop(kill switch) One will be a RED wire going to the ignition coils, the other may be RED with Yellow stripe comimg from the main harness.I'd open up the headlight housing too, checking the connections inside.

Some of the older Kawasaki's have had reports of the soldered connections crumbling on the switches.You might also have to do this:

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website.

On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach.Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start.

Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you.

Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting).I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt

Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.

If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation.

Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........

could the kill switch be my problem? i tried everything else people have told me on the forums and it all tested out fine. and ive even changed parts ect and still no spark. the bike will turn over but no spark to either plug. only thing left is my kill switch i think...my bike turns over though so i dont no if the kill switch is the problem.

If kill switch is off or broken it should kill power to ignition and starter both,maybe check connection before starter button in bar control

Good Fortune!

have you looked at points yet?
they might me stickin shut or just need replaced?
let us know

i have looked at the points and they look brand new. they seem to be opening and closing properly too but i dont see any spark from the points when they r opening and closing.

is that 20amp fuse by the batter? i see the fuse box on the left side of the bike behind the panel. but is there another fuse by itself some where else on the bike?

If needed, there's a wiring diagram under FILEBASE.



Here's a direct link to the diagram:

www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/284-z750b4

Good Fortune!

how can i tell if the bike is out of time? im not very good at mechanics but i think if i get basic enough instruction i can figure out of the bike is out of time. also if it ends up being out of time bad enough not to spark what would cause this?

Don't worry about the timing until you get fire to the points. You move those points and you will be totally lost.

Start at the battery like the diagram shows. Follow the diagram with a test light until it does not light up. Have you got a test light yet? Roy