Not charging enough. Battery slowly dying.

Confirm the results again with your meter on OHM's and when you find which yellow wire has flow in both directions mark it, piece of tape, sharpie, etc. Then we do a better test with a light bulb. Do you have a spare, say turn signal bulb, or a test light of sorts?

Motor Head wrote: OHM on the meter, correct. If leads are touching nothing, there is a 1 displayed? When touching them to each other, 0 Displayed? Does it Beep, is there a option to turn on sound?
Anyway, the reading you get, when you touch the two test leads from the meter to themselves. That should be pretty much what you should see when going between the yellow and white, but in only 1 direction. If any have contact in both directions, then the Rectifier has a bad Diode. A diode is like a 1 way street, current goes 1 way. This is how it converts the AC voltage made by your Stator, into DC voltage for you battery, and electrical.
With a bad diode, you will be trying to charge with 2 of the three phases, low Amperage.

Ok yes, 1 when disconnected and 0 when connected. i selected the continuity setting? I just took a second reading. so with red lead on pos white cable. i tested again on all 3 yellow and could not get it to change from 1. but when i reversed leads, neg lead on the white out of rec, then all 3 yellow wires changed to a reading of .4 or .5, but not to 0.

When I dd the original test, i had the Ohm dialed on 2M. and one of the wires gave a reading in both directions, but not on any other Ohm setting.

I'm not sure what you mean by 1M on the meter, but that probably doesn't mater. The big issue is current flowing only one way. So this time you checked and all were the same reading? Non would flow both ways? This OHM meter test puts a very small amount of current through the Rectifier Diode that you are testing. The service manual would most likely have you use a light bulb. So then you put like 2 Amps through each, which is still low, but way more than the Ohm meter. I don't know what those Diodes are rated for Current. I would guess about 10 Amps each but could be wrong.
Do you know how to make a circuit to test with a bulb and Battery, to go through the test again? One test lead from the positive battery, the other from the negative, to a test light, then continuing. So you should have one Hot lead, and one ground lead with a bulb in series, this means continuing through the bulb. If it is a single filament turn signal bulb, you would have to connect to both the outside metal, and the center post.
Then with this hot and ground, place the Hot on the White, then with the bulb in the ground go through the three yellows. Again the light should only work in one direction.

Motor Head wrote: I'm not sure what you mean by 1M on the meter, but that probably doesn't mater. The big issue is current flowing only one way. So this time you checked and all were the same reading? Non would flow both ways? This OHM meter test puts a very small amount of current through the Rectifier Diode that you are testing. The service manual would most likely have you use a light bulb. So then you put like 2 Amps through each, which is still low, but way more than the Ohm meter. I don't know what those Diodes are rated for Current. I would guess about 10 Amps each but could be wrong.
Do you know how to make a circuit to test with a bulb and Battery, to go through the test again? One test lead from the positive battery, the other from the negative, to a test light, then continuing. So you should have one Hot lead, and one ground lead with a bulb in series, this means continuing through the bulb. If it is a single filament turn signal bulb, you would have to connect to both the outside metal, and the center post.
Then with this hot and ground, place the Hot on the White, then with the bulb in the ground go through the three yellows. Again the light should only work in one direction.

OK I'll do this tomorrow. Getting dark outside right now so i can't see anything. Never made a test light before but I'll give it a go tomorrow.

Thanks so much for the help. I can't thank you enough.

If you get a chance you could buy a test light, but it would have a very low watt bulb, compared to, the turn signal bulb. If you don't have a spare on of those, pick up one. 1156 is a single element bulb, like the one the Manual shows for testing. You would solder a wire to each contact, to the outside metal, and the center post on the base. Easy, cheap test light you can use again.

I purchased a test light, and repeated the test. Clipped onto the rectifier pos, and then tried the yellow connectors into the rec. Couldn't get the bulb to light. I do have a 1156 bulb kicking around, I'll make a test light with it when I get home today and repeat the test. WHy does the bulb make a difference?

I see your back at it.
Go and watch this U-tube Vid. It will explain a bit for you, how to test your Diodes as I explained.