Not charging enough. Battery slowly dying.

Motor Head wrote: Well that confirms that at least up to the connection where you checked it the white wire is hooked to B+ at battery post. Is this the same spot where you measure the 15+ volts?

Also confirms that the Green wire is out-putting the same as in-coming. Brown wire is same voltage going into regulator, as green wire coming out? Right.
Did you take some load out of the system by un-plugging the head light, and watching for voltage rise at the battery.

Yes the same spot where I measured 15v closest to rectifier.
Yes same voltage out of green coming in from brown.
Yes I forgot to mention I unplugged the headlight and measured a slight increase in voltage a cross the battery up to about 12.9 at idle and only jumps to 13v maybe 13.1 at 4000rpm.

Ok, lets test the rectifier diodes with your Meter. Unplug the Incoming three yellow wires and the output white wire. Using you Meter, On Ohms, test the yellow wires to the White. You should have connection, continuity in 1 direction. That would be with the positive on the white and the negative on the yellow. Test each one, reversing your test leads to make sure there is no contact going through the other way. This can also be done with a test light bulb, this way more current is applied, more like when hooked in the system. Requires looping in with a battery, flow should still be only one way. Yellow through to white.

Do i do this with the engine idling?

Sorry, no this is all off. Disconnecting the Incoming yellows at the rectifier, and the output. Just Isolating and testing the rectifier for a potential diode leak.

bloglos wrote: OK,
4. Same test on neg out of rectifier, 12.6v, no loss.

What about this?

Negative of the rectifier should be zero, not 12.6v. All voltage readings should be taken with the meter's black lead connected to the battery negative terminal.

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The brown wire is the sense line for the reg, AND the power source for the field. Since the brown wire is low on battery voltage, the green wire will nearly match the brown as the regulator will try to put full current to the field.

loudhvx wrote:

bloglos wrote: OK,
4. Same test on neg out of rectifier, 12.6v, no loss.

What about this?

Negative of the rectifier should be zero, not 12.6v. All voltage readings should be taken with the meter's black lead connected to the battery negative terminal.

I connected the black neg out of rectifier to one lead and the other lead to the positive. Did I do this wrong?

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The brown wire is the sense line for the reg, AND the power source for the field. Since the brown wire is low on battery voltage, the green wire will nearly match the brown as the regulator will try to put full current to the field.

The same way you paralleled a jumper wire for the white wire, You should make sure the black wire on the rectifier is connected to ground.

Inspect it carefully, though, because if the rectifier shorted or some other shorted long ago in the past, that ground wire may be all melted. If you smell smoke, be ready to kill the bike immediately.

loudhvx wrote: The same way you paralleled a jumper wire for the white wire, You should make sure the black wire on the rectifier is connected to ground.

Inspect it carefully, though, because if the rectifier shorted or some other shorted long ago in the past, that ground wire may be all melted. If you smell smoke, be ready to kill the bike immediately.

Loudhvx: sorry i should clarify, i tested black out of the rectifier at positive on the battery. You mentioned I should always take care the reading with the lead at the battery neg. Which I did not. I had it at battery positive, and the other on black out of rectifier. Does this explain the voltage reading?

Yes that would explain the reading. Unless specified, we should assume voltage readings are based on the battery's negative post.

You should verify, then, that the black wire on the rectifier is at 0v, when running etc., when you get a chance.

Motor Head wrote: Ok, lets test the rectifier diodes with your Meter. Unplug the Incoming three yellow wires and the output white wire. Using you Meter, On Ohms, test the yellow wires to the White. You should have connection, continuity in 1 direction. That would be with the positive on the white and the negative on the yellow. Test each one, reversing your test leads to make sure there is no contact going through the other way. This can also be done with a test light bulb, this way more current is applied, more like when hooked in the system. Requires looping in with a battery, flow should still be only one way. Yellow through to white.

Ok I did this, but this is where my lack of knowledge about my multimeter comes into play. I selected a setting on Ohm on my meter. it dsplays a "1" as a default. I plugged the positive to the white output of the rec, and the neg to each of the yellow into the rec. 2 of the 3 yellow connections did not change from 1 to anything. 1 of the yellow wires changed from 1 to something. I didn't write the readings down. Then I switched the leads and attached the neg lead to the white rec output and the pos red multimeter lead to each yellow wire... then they all changed to a different reading from 1.

Did I do this correct? or did I missinterpret the instructions?

loudhvx wrote: Yes that would explain the reading. Unless specified, we should assume voltage readings are based on the battery's negative post.

You should verify, then, that the black wire on the rectifier is at 0v, when running etc., when you get a chance.

Thanks, yes this is now confirmed at 0v. Just checked.

OHM on the meter, correct. If leads are touching nothing, there is a 1 displayed? When touching them to each other, 0 Displayed? Does it Beep, is there a option to turn on sound?
Anyway, the reading you get, when you touch the two test leads from the meter to themselves. That should be pretty much what you should see when going between the yellow and white, but in only 1 direction. If any have contact in both directions, then the Rectifier has a bad Diode. A diode is like a 1 way street, current goes 1 way. This is how it converts the AC voltage made by your Stator, into DC voltage for you battery, and electrical.
With a bad diode, you will be trying to charge with 2 of the three phases, low Amperage.