Another coil question.

Going to use some green Dyna Dual Output 3.0 Ohm Coils on the 1980 Z1R Mk11.

Ive been told that by using these I can eliminate the ballast resistor all together.

Can anyone confirm this please?

0Z.Z1R Mk2 wrote: Going to use some green Dyna Dual Output 3.0 Ohm Coils on the 1980 Z1R Mk11.

Ive been told that by using these I can eliminate the ballast resistor all together.

Can anyone confirm this please?

Is Dyna-S ignition fitted to replace the stock Kawasaki ignition?

Good Fortune!

I cannot be sure of this Patton. :S

I presume its the stock system fitted.

Am pretty sure the stock ignition includes an I.C. igniter, and that each stock ignition coil has primary winding resistance of 1.2Ω~1.9Ω, and that there is also a 1.5Ω~1.9Ω resistor in the battery power wire leading to each coil.

The green Dyna coil has primary winding resistance of 3Ω, and is designed to work with the Dyna-S ignition which eliminates the stock I.C. igniter and the stock resistor.

Where a Dyna-S ignition is used to replace the stock ignition, the stock coils are usually also replaced with Dyna green 3Ω coils.

Usually doesn't hurt anything to fit a higher ohm coil than designed (other than slightly weaker plug spark).
But it's generally ill-advised to replace an existing ignition coil with one of less resistance.

I don't know whether the stock 1.2Ω~1.9Ω coil plus the stock 1.5Ω~1.9Ω resistor would be okay to run with the Dyna-S ignition absent the I.C. igniter.

The ignition, either stock or Dyna-S, may be found located under the points cover situated on the right side of the engine.

See pics below.

Good Fortune!

As Patton says, you need to know which ignition you have before you get any coils.

The factory ignition will use 2.2 -ohm Dyna gray coils.

The Dyna S needs the green 3 ohm coils.

Does the Z1R Mk2 not run Electronic Ignition from stock?

Quote z1 enterprises.

www.z1enterprises.com/Dyna-Dual-Output-3...s-pair-DC11-210.aspx
3.0 Ohm greenies (above link) should do it for you.

You can run 2.2 Ohm coils if you want to keep the ballast resistor. You simply eliminate it from the system if you want to use the 3.0 Ohm green coils..

www.z1enterprises.com/Dyna-Dual-Output-2...-pair-DC41-1306.aspx

Z1E listing for Dyna green 3 ohm coil says,
...For some Kawasaki bikes with a resistor in the circuit (KZ1000 79 & 80), the 3 ohm coil is the best choice - just remove the ballast resistor from the circuit....

Wonder why Kawasaki didn't simply fit the higher resistance coils in the first place instead of using lower resistance coils that required a resistor?

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote: Z1E listing for Dyna green 3 ohm coil says,
...For some Kawasaki bikes with a resistor in the circuit (KZ1000 79 & 80), the 3 ohm coil is the best choice - just remove the ballast resistor from the circuit....

Wonder why Kawasaki didn't simply fit the higher resistance coils in the first place instead of using lower resistance coils that required a resistor?

Good Fortune!

My guess is the answer involves flyback (reverse emf) energy and a lot more math than I'm interested in reading :laugh:

Here a pic of my ignition....obviously stock.



I'm still none the wiser to my original question.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationThe MK II engines, just like the 79 KZ1300 had a 3-Ohm system. Not until 1981 did Kawasaki go to a 2.2-Ohm system. The electronic igniter changed between 80 and 81. You will require the 3-Ohm green coils and remove the resistor and jump the wires that had the resistor in them. Also, do not use resistor ignition wires or resistor spark plugs. Kawasaki confused this for is on the 79-80 engines. You can also replace the older igniter with the more modern and better igniter from the "J" engines and than use the 2.2 Ohm gray coils. This option would be my choice. You can get them on eBay. Here is one that I found.

The Dyna gray coil is 2.2, the original Kaw coils range was 1.8~2.8, so the middle of the range is 2.3. The 550's had the 2.3 system's igniter from the start in 1980. (Not that .1 ohm makes a difference, but for nomenclature reasons, it's best to keep them separate.)

Do we know for a fact that the earlier (some 1980 or earlier) style factory igniter cannot use a 2.3 ohm coil?

Since it's the shape of the rotor and pickup signal that will determine the dwell, I would assume the dwell design is the same for all of the mechanical-advance, factory electronic ignitions. We just need someone with a dwell meter and a early ignition bike to confirm the dwell.

In my opinion, if you have those factory pickups, you should be using original 2.3 ohm coils, or the Dyna 2.2 ohm coils. The 3-ohm coils take longer to charge, so at the higher RPMs and wider throttle openings, the coils may not have enough time to charge to spark. This is especially true if the plug gap is larger than normal.

Since the igniter is easily replaced, and cheap to make, it's not a big risk to use the gray Dyna 2.2 ohm coil on any of the KZ electronic ignitions without a ballast resistor.

None of the 2.2, 2.3, or 3.0 ohm coils should use a resistor in the primary circuit. (Ballast type resistor or otherwise.)

This is for the inline-4 KZ's.

By the way, it doesn't help that some of the factory service manuals, and the parts fiches, have the info messed up. The 550 A1 is shown with one points coil, and one igniter coil. :blink:

I know that the 2.2 Ohm coils will not work on the KZ1300. It uses the same picups as the other bikes but three of them. They heat up quite a bit and crack on the 1300. I suppose one can try the 2.2 ohm coils and see what happens.