Weird battery issue

TeK9iNe wrote:

hocbj23 wrote: 2 amps is a "trickle charge" to be used only after a battery is fully charged to maintain full charge.Put the new battery on ur charger at 10 amps and let it charge for 24 hours and then see what u got.bj

Do not do this. Sorry BJ, but that will @#%$ a cheap little powersport battery by killing its lifespan considerably. Stick with a 2 amp or less charge ALWAYS for every occasion - 1 amp is better, and a good automatic batter maintainer/charger designed for powersports is best.

It says this in the directions that came with the battery.

PEACE.

AMEN. Most bike batteries live in the 15 A-Hr ballpark, 10 amps for 24 hours will boil it dry and destroy it. 2A is plenty to charge a bike battery, but it needs to taper off and hold the battery at about 13.6V to prevent overcharge.

650ed wrote: Here's some documnetation from Yuasa - probably the biggest bike battery supplier in the world. Notice that on Page 12 it states:

4. A battery must be completely charged before
installation. Charge for three to five hours at the current
equivalent of 1/10 of its rated capacity found in the
Yuasa Applications Book.

So for a 10 amp bike battery that's charging on a 1 amp charger for 3 - 5 hours. Elsewhere in the instructions it mentions if the battery begins to get hot take it off the charger and let it cool before continuing. Ed

www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechManual_2009.pdf

And add more acid if the levels drop below the top of the plates during initial charge. Never add acid again after that, just DI water.

Obviously, since the horn worked, the battery has some charge, and I'd bet both batteries are fine.

There should be no spark when connecting a fully sharged battery to another good, fully charged battery. Since they are both at nearly the same volatge, there should be almost no current flow, until you turn the bike on (by then the cables are connected).

Sounds to me like you popped the main fuse, or one of the battery wires is bad, or the ignition switch is bad.

I would like to mention that little button on the right handlebar, called the kill switch.

I m speaking from experience here, and experienced it twice before it was branded into my brain:

"Start simple and work your way towards complicated"

Doesnt turn over at all: Check killswitch/main fuse

Sounds like one or the other to me.

Battery was perfect this morning at 12.7 amps. Thank you to all with that issue! I think my charger wasn't putting out any amps until i slapped it around switching to 10 amps then back to two.

So I get out the wiring diagram from the Haynes and start...get to the fuse box and whaaaa? Where is the 20amp fuse and why are these wires dangling where it should be? Yep, previous owner melted the fuse off and just wired around it using various colored wires and the most nonsensical bunch of connectors. This Rube Goldburg contraption had come apart and the buck stopped there. I had the tank off and gave the wiring a good once over and all i can say is, Thank God for long Adirondack winters. He also appears to have been very fond of zip ties. That's what was holding the tail light on after he removed the fender. A few 6mm bolts from autozone and a lot of snipping...ahhhhhh.

So, a lil starting fluid and a few vicious kicks and I'm a happy guy. I know the road is going to be long with this one but a KZ is worth the effort and time!

Thank You ALL!

Many of the owners of these older bikes have changed from the glass tubed fuses to the more modern "Blade"style used in cars.

Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by removing them from the clip and electrically continuity checking with either a self powered test light, or a multimeter set on OHMS can they be determined to be in good shape.

5. A physical inspection of the metal end caps for tightness will tell you if the fuse is serviceable.

6. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

7. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

8. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.

9. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:

www.waytekwire.com order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/...20%20%20%208%20FUSE/

www.rallylights.com www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=765

www.delcity.net/store/6!way-fuse-blocks/p_10822.a_1

10. A source for the glass tubed AGX fuses:
www.boatownerswarehouse.com/browse.cfm/2,4986.html

That's a winter project. For now I'm going to wire in an inline fuse to get me through the rest of the short summer. Napa still sells the glass fuses down the road and I'll get a bunch in the morning.

Thanks!