under the contact breaker

hey my bike is a 81' kz440 ltd and in all the diagrams the stuff under the contact breaker looks totally different then what i got so help me if you can what do i got?

That's what i got much help please

cpreset wrote: hey my bike is a 81' kz440 ltd and in all the diagrams the stuff under the contact breaker looks totally different then what i got so help me if you can what do i got?

That's what i got much help please

Appears to be a stock Kawasaki electronic ignition, that works in conjunction with an I.C. Igniter box.

Lots of good info on kawasaki.com, including parts diagrams, part numbers, models sharing same part, availability, etc.

Here's a link for help with navigating the site and finding information.

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...w&catid=13&id=376734

Good Fortune!

Thanks I thought I was missing something

you wouldn't happen to know what the gap should be between the two things at their closest point

cpreset wrote: you wouldn't happen to know what the gap should be between the two things at their closest point

Why? There is no adjustment.

I use those same parts to convert 750 twins to electronic ignition.

Just make sure the gap is even across the surface. Sometimes the pickups can get bent to where they get closer to the rotor. At higher RPMs, they sometimes make contact from vibration. That's not good. As long as the gap is even so the two surfaces are parallel, it will likely have the correct gap. I tusually looks like about 1/32" or so. Maybe 1/16"... not positive?

i was asking because the po got a little heavy handed while adjusting the valves and bent the black part away from the center it runs but the spark is off a little. so ill try to get it as even as possible

The "Black Part" is a critical part of the ignition system as it tells the IC Igniter to add the ground signal to fire the sparkplugs through the ignition coil(s).

On some of the older bikes, this part is becomming heat sesitive and will quit working possibly stranding you until it cools off.

Here's test procedure I wrote for the bigger 4's having the same "Pulsing coil"

Ohm Checking Pickup(Pulsing) Coils

The pickup coils on the Kawasaki’s with the factory supplied electronic ignition can sometimes fail or become intermittent due to heat and vibration.

1.Trace back from where the pick up coils are mounted,(under a right side CD sized cover) locate and disconnect a small 4 pin connector. Using a multi-meter set on OHMS and range of 2K, check between the BLUE and BLACK wires(#1 and #4 sparkplug wires) for between 360- 540 OHMS.

2.For #2 and #3 sparkplugs the wire colors will be YELLOW and RED, again 360-540 OHMS. The 550’s,650’s & 750’s may be backwards to the Z1’s,Kz900’s,Kz1000’s & Kz1100’s.

3.If the pickup coils are suspect of failing due to heat, they can be stressed using a hair dryer without the need of the engine running.

4.A replacement set of pickup coils might be obtained from a dealer who serviced the police Kawasaki’s.

5. If replacement pickup coils are not available, your next choice would be to order a Dyna “S” electronic ignition system from www.z1enterprises.com It replaces the IC igniter with a smaller module located where the mechanical ignition advancer was mounted.

6. Checking with Kawasaki.com website has determined that the Pick up(pulsing) coils are available . The pulsing coil # is 59026-1133 and replaces the older # 1002, 1012 which were used from the MKII motors until the 2005 P24.

7.Check the small 4 pin connector that the pickup coils connect to for corrosion/loose pins too.

do i have to have the bike on to do the check

ok i did and it came back as 463 so my pulsing coil is good anyway thanks Mfolks

Have it checked if the ignition becomes intermittent, as as these pulsing or pick up coils can be heat damaged.

so i am going to replace the whole ignition system so what do i need to get to replace it