modifying a mechanical advancer

My cams have so much duration that I found I could add 5 degrees initial timing to the stock 10 degrees, called for by kawasaki with no issues. I would however still like to limit total timing to 38-4o degrees, and have to take 5 degrees out of the mechanical advancer. Just curious if any of you have done this same thing, and how you modified the mechanical advancer to achieve it?

i have heard that some guys change the spring, but that seems like a tedious trial and error type of job.
i wonder if the Z1/kz 1000 advancer would Fit/work. they came in 10, 15, and 20 degrees of initial advance.
the Dyna 2000 is an electronic programmable advancer. it eliminates the stock mechanical advancer.

Could possibly bend the two "advanced stops" inward to reduce outward motion of the two weight arms, or fashion blocks of some sort between the stops and arms, but either of these methods seems very crude and inexact, especially when compared to installing the electronic programmable advancer as suggested by mark1122.

Good Fortune!

Godfrey wrote: My cams have so much duration that I found I could add 5 degrees initial timing to the stock 10 degrees, called for by kawasaki with no issues. I would however still like to limit total timing to 38-4o degrees, and have to take 5 degrees out of the mechanical advancer. Just curious if any of you have done this same thing, and how you modified the mechanical advancer to achieve it?

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Good Fortune!

The engine is a 1980 KZ750E

You could build up a silver solder "pad" on the stop notches which would let you adjust it by filing that pad down. You need to adjust how far out the two metal "wings" can open at full advance. Messing with the springs won't help, that just changes the rate they open versus RPM.

bountyhunter wrote: You could build up a silver solder "pad" on the stop notches which would let you adjust it by filing that pad down. You need to adjust how far out the two metal "wings" can open at full advance. Messing with the springs won't help, that just changes the rate they open versus RPM.

good point. and as u add wieght with solder, it will slightly alter the rate of advance (will adv. faster or sooner.).

glad I got extra parts, tryed bending the advance stops in and have a small fracture in the metal, I may fill them with solder, and good idea with the silver solder , could fine tune with some trial and error.

Bent and fractured? How far before that happened? I've only gone enough to get rid of about 4 degrees total advance. A small build up of material at the stop should not effect advance rate just total. Adding to the moving arm/ weight would increase advance at lower RPM, same as a weaker spring. The programmable would be a great choice for those with the bucks. But how many settings are there or can you set it as wanted? Some would only have like 4 different curves pre-programed to choose from.
Doing it mechanically is the old fashioned way, more time consuming, but cheaper if you have the time. We know you have the patience.

Motor Head wrote: Bent and fractured? How far before that happened? I've only gone enough to get rid of about 4 degrees total advance. A small build up of material at the stop should not effect advance rate just total. Adding to the moving arm/ weight would increase advance at lower RPM, same as a weaker spring. The programmable would be a great choice for those with the bucks. But how many settings are there or can you set it as wanted? Some would only have like 4 different curves pre-programed to choose from.
Doing it mechanically is the old fashioned way, more time consuming, but cheaper if you have the time. We know you have the patience.

the Dyna 2000 only has 2 curves. 1 for stock, and 1 for a little more lively motor, but u can make your own map if u like to experiment.

Patton wrote: Could possibly bend the two "advanced stops" inward to reduce outward motion of the two weight arms, or fashion blocks of some sort between the stops and arms, but either of these methods seems very crude and inexact, especially when compared to installing the electronic programmable advancer as suggested by mark1122.

Good Fortune!

Would it be possible to drill and tap for a small screw in the advance stop? Juat an Idea.

Ya know Patton I thought of the screw idea, not sure i trust locktight spinning that fast, plus I wonder if there would be a balance issue.