Fitting Dyna Coils under tank?! 1980 750-4

good point. I'm a little concerned with vibrations too...

If after you're happy with the mounting of the ignition coils,think about putting a ty wrap or two around the coils securing them against the frame members as a redundant means for vibration restraint.

whats ty wrap? the nylon zipper ties?

apbling wrote: Well, I don't want to drill on the coils... BUT, I'm thinking if I get some L brackts and I got some 1" flat stock already I can make my own bracket that holds the coil with the terminals pointing downwards and maybe more tucked into the frame.

I like this plan. Use steel for magnetic reasons. It will provide higher inductance in the coil.
Heavier the better on the bracket to protect from vibration.

apbling wrote: ok, anyway....

Anyone got any ideas/advice or better, pics of how I can go about mounting MY coils on MY bike?

Sorry to be rude, but please start your own thread if you have your own questions.

WoW....sorry, I was hoping since it appears you already installed the Dyna-s I might get some feedback about them. I had already read through several other Dyna-s threads, and didn't want to be redundant on the MB with starting another one.

My bad....

RaeRae wrote:

apbling wrote: ok, anyway....

Anyone got any ideas/advice or better, pics of how I can go about mounting MY coils on MY bike?

Sorry to be rude, but please start your own thread if you have your own questions.

WoW....sorry, I was hoping since it appears you already installed the Dyna-s I might get some feedback about them. I had already read through several other Dyna-s threads, and didn't want to be redundant on the MB with starting another one.

My bad....

He is installing Dyna coils, not the Dyna S.

There are many threads on KZ550 ignitions and starting problems.

But to get better responses for KZ550 starting/running issues, it would be better to start a dedicated thread.

my bad.....

See told ya I was still in the learning curve of this whole mess!

Thanks and sorry again....

Rae

loudhvx wrote:

apbling wrote: Well, I don't want to drill on the coils... BUT, I'm thinking if I get some L brackts and I got some 1" flat stock already I can make my own bracket that holds the coil with the terminals pointing downwards and maybe more tucked into the frame.

I like this plan. Use steel for magnetic reasons. It will provide higher inductance in the coil.
Heavier the better on the bracket to protect from vibration.

Those little brackets you get from walmart or whatever...those are galvanized steel right?

Explain this inductance thing...I chose chemical engineering, not electrical

The coil, while it's charging, and before any spark occurs, is basically a big electromagnet. The energy it stores is dependent on the inductance of the coil, and the amount of current in the coil. By giving the magnetic flux an easier path to travel through, the inductance of the coil is increased. This is done by giving the flux lines a path of ferrous metal. By mounting the core of the coil using steel hardware, a loop is created for the magnetic flux lines.

If you mount the coils with straps that don't touch the core, as is sometimes done, the coil will not hold as much energy. The difference is very slight, and may not have much affect at higher RPMs, (actually if you notice much difference in the bike with small differences of spark energy, then there are other porblems with the bike).

This is just a very brief description. There are many other little details related to changing the inductance of a coil.

so, lets say that a nut fell off one of the mounting bolts to the coil. The bolt stayed in the hole and the other bolt was ok, would this cause a problem? Because, when I pulled my coils off, I was missing a mounting nut.

Just did some more measuring before I tackle this job tomorrow and man oh man, it's gonna be a tight squeeze.

It is ok if my spark plug wires come into contact with the cam cover, correct? (I'd assume it's designed to not melt, but I don't want to find out).

I'd say try to get the maximum clearance away from the cam cover. The high energy spark will try to go to ground. The worst will be no spark at the cylinder that's grounded out. It might affect the coil operation too.

It's hot environment under the tank where the coils live, material expands when heated, so I don't see the sparkplug wires(especially the grounded one or two) surviving long as it's probably going to arc and sound like pre-ignition.