Fitting Dyna Coils under tank?! 1980 750-4

OK, bought some new dyna 2.2 coils. Problem...the SOB's don't fit under my tank. The way my stock brackets are the terminals hit the tank. I tried to move them inwards toward one another, but I run outta room. I can move one coil further in, but the other can't move in far enough because it hits the first coil. Has anyone else had this issue? I'm trying to figure out how to fab something up... I think I need the terminals to face downward...but have enough room to attache the wires and not be touching the cam cover...

BTW, it's an LTD.

wow, my picture actually loaded!
2nd pic...

I've seen picture of the coils laying on their sides. Are the new coils larger than what the Kawasaki's were?

yeah they are larger. Well, the dynas wires come off the side whereas the Kawasaki ones come out the rear.

If you drilled new mounting holes 90 degrees in the laminations of the coils, would they fit without hitting the tank? From the pictures, I don't think they will have the sparkplug ports point down as they might hit the cam chain cover.

Well, I don't want to drill on the coils... BUT, I'm thinking if I get some L brackts and I got some 1" flat stock already I can make my own bracket that holds the coil with the terminals pointing downwards and maybe more tucked into the frame.

Someone else must have had this issue right?

Side question on the Dyna-S, I am wanting to put a Dyna-S ignition in my 550 LTD, does doing this by pass the igniter?

Thanks.........

Rae

RaeRae wrote: Side question on the Dyna-S, I am wanting to put a Dyna-S ignition in my 550 LTD, does doing this by pass the igniter?

Thanks.........

Rae

Yes, but why ?
The factory electronic ignition is more efficient, and you'll have to get new coils to use the Dyna S.

If your igniter is bad, you can make one for less than 1/2 the price of the dyna S.

If the pickups are bad, you can get them pretty cheaply on ebay.

I think something is "burning up" igniters on my bike......she's getting good spark, just no fire if that makes sense.....not even after trickle charge or jump-off?

See, I am still learning about all this crazy stuff, and sombody told me to just drop a Dyna-S in her and it would by pass the igniter anyway..... because the Dyna-s is a self-contained high performance ignition system, and that it would give it stronger fire as well......

The guy who is helping us do some more work on her is a killer engine mechanic, but doesn't know a whole lot about the electronics part of it.....(not the same guy who told me about the Dyna-S)

Anyway, not sure where to go from here. I just want the bitch running so I can ride her. There is a reason why I call her the red she-devil, and she's showing it true to form now, plus the fact that she's fast as hell for a 550! :evil:

Thanks - Rae

Which of your bikes is giving you electrical trouble in the ignition dept.?

You might try this:

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website.It can be purchased at Radio Shack Stores and other electronic supply places.

On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach.
Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start.

Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you.

Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting).
I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........

ok, anyway....

Anyone got any ideas/advice or better, pics of how I can go about mounting MY coils on MY bike?

Sorry to be rude, but please start your own thread if you have your own questions.

Like you mentioned, some "L" brackets might work to mount the coils. I'd be concerened about the sparkplug wires rubbing through the insulation against the tank. I've found tha Radio Shack sells a black 1/4" spiral wrap that fits tight around brake lines as a scuff protector. I'd think some pieces around the sparkplug wires would protect them too.


You might have to once the spark connections are hooked up, to use some ty wraps to bundle the leads out of the way.