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Starter relay and coil probs
- redneck-kz
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Nic
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Nic
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Attachment IMAG0367_2011-05-17.jpg not found
IMAG0368.jpg
Nic
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IMAG0367.jpg
[attachment:2]IMAG0368.jpg[/attachment]
Nic
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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650ed wrote: Do you have a service manual? Ed
No I do not ive not been able to find one that is reasonably priced
Ive pylled most of the specs off the net
Nic
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1979 KZ650 SR (aka: Stella Blue)
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Remove the points cover on the right side of engine. Under it you will see 2 sets of points. The set on the left fires cylinders 1 & 4; the set on the right fires 2 & 3. When replacing points observe carefully how the little bits and pieces are arranged where the wires attach. Some of those pieces are actually insulators and if you leave any of them out or put them back in the wrong place the points will be grounded and won’t work. Take a very close look at the contact surfaces of the points. If they are pitted you really should replace them. You can sand down pitted points, but they will quickly pit again. Replace one set of points at a time so you can look at the other set in case you get the little bits confused.
Use a 17 mm wrench to turn the nut NEAR the end of the crankshaft clockwise while looking in the hole above that nut. (Do NOT use a wrench on the smaller bolt on the very end of the crankshaft to turn the engine.) Inside that hole you will see a vertical pointer cast into the casing. As you turn the 17 mm nut you will see a 1 & 4 and F and T roll by and then you’ll see a 2 & 3 and F and T roll by. Each F and T has a line next to it.
Here’s the method I use for static timing. To make my life easier, I turn OFF the ignition. I disconnect the green wire near one coil and the black wire near the other coil. (This is not in the book, but it makes checking continuity much easier for me.) After installing the new points or cleaning up the old ones, turn the 17 mm nut while watching the points. When points set 1&4 are at their widest gap adjust them (by loosening the 2 screws that hold the points to the backplate) so the gap equals 0.35 mm. Turn the 17 mm nut clockwise through a full revolution again and double check this gap. Then repeat this for points set 3&4. Now set your meter to test continuity and clip one wire to the leaf spring on points set 1&4 and clip the other wire to ground. Turn the 17 mm nut clockwise until the 1&4 “F” mark aligns with the pointer mentioned above. You want the continuity across point set 1&4 to just break when the F mark aligns with the pointer. The idea is that when the continuity just fails is when the points will fire their respective coil and cylinders. In order to adjust the point at which continuity fails you loosen the 3 screws that hold the backplate to the engine and slightly turn the backplate until the meter shows a break in continuity. On the newer KZ650 models there is no separate timing adjustment for each points set, so once you have the 1&4 set timed properly you can check the 2&3 set to make sure they break when the 2&3 F mark aligns with the pointer. Don’t forget to plug in the green and black coil wires when you’re done.
Sorry this is so long. It’s not as difficult as it sounds. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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Nic
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Now that its running I did find that my 2&3 coil is verry verry weak it has a intermedit skip and when I disconect
And swap the coils around I then get miss on 1&4 so picking up a set of coils Monday
I tested all conections and grounds cleaned all conecctors and sealed them all as well
Fingers crossed the coils are the last issue for a while again thank you for the help will be posting
Pics as soon as I get the paint finished
Nic
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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