TOPIC:

Still having charging problems on my 77 kz650b1. here's what I've done so far (to the electrical):

New battery
New stator
Replaced wiring harness and hand control (checked wires)

I just replaced the stator b/c I assumed it was the culprit when my new battery kept running dead and not charging...it would seem that it wasn't the culprit.

At idle the volt meter reads 11.4 at the battery with the lights off and 11.1 with the lights on.

Performed the regulator test according to the Clymer's manual and it read that the stator was bad (right after we put the new stator in)

I thought that if the stator was functioning correctly it should read 14 or higher at the battery, at least when the rpms climb, but I keep a stagnant 11.4 all the time.

Might I have a bad rotor? Is there any way I can test the rotor? Any help would be HUGE. Thanks!

That is a very complicated charging system you have there. However, it is very similar to this one. If you follow this thread very closely it will probably answer a lot of your questions (but not all). Kit is very meticulous in his work and observations.

kzrider.com/component/option,com_joomlab...ew/id,35581/catid,4/

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2006/04/27 11:58

Thanks for the link loudhvx!! I performed the stator test detailed in that thread and found that even with the new stator I'm only getting about 11.5 volts after bypassing the reg...the good news is she started on the first kick cold! WHOO HOO!!!!!

Now, I'm just wondering if I should suspect the rotor or the field coil for causing the lack of output from the stator assembly. I just put in the NOS stator last night, so I'm really really really hoping that it's one of those two and not that I wasted money on a bum part....is there anyway to test the rotor? My Clymer's manual says the only way to test it is to switch it out with a part that I know to be good...which doesn't seem like much help. I did notice when I took the basket apart that there was a light layer of surface rust over the rotor, is that normal? Any ideas on testing the field coil/rotor? Thanks again, this site has been a godsend and you are all AWESOME!

Found the test procedure for testing the field coil, and the good news is mine tested within the parameters. It showed 4 ohm when measuring from the green stator lead and neg battery terminal.

I'm fairly convinced now that I must have a defective rotor, but I'm hesitant to drop more money on something that may or may not solve my problem. Does anyone know of any way to test the rotor? I scoured the board and found all the other tests to be extremely helpful, and just want to know now if I should pony up the bucks and buy a new rotor, or if there is any way to test that piece.

Thanks again!!!

Is the field coil producing magnetism?

How do you know it's not the rectifier?

There isn't much that can go wrong with the rotor electrically. As long as it's there and rotating, it's probably ok.

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2006/04/28 16:18

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2006/04/28 16:19

Don't know if the field coil is producing magnetism, couldn't find any testing procedures for that. I tested the rectifier by the method listed in my Clymer's manual and it seemed okay according to that test. Fortunately, I got the rotor pretty cheap on ebay for a nos part, so I won't lose much if that's not it.

Kit explains how he tested the field coil for magnetism in that thread.

The rectifier may still be bad if you only did an ohm test.