TOPIC:

If you are using an electronic ignition to trigger it. You need it with the amplifier. So a Dyna-s or Dyna-III or the stock Kawasaki ignition should fire it fine. You need to fire it with the wires going to the coils.

Why is it raining on a day i want to do this?

dejavoodo41 wrote:

When the Dyna III that came installed on my bike went out I tried to install the MCI that I was given when I bought my bike but it didn't have the OE connector and my bike is bare bones as far as wiring goes. I tried to get it to work and gave up trying to get the info and put in a Dyna S that I was also given with the bike. Maybe I'll have to give it another go.

I have made mine 100% plug-N-play with the harness I made. Just unplug the wires from the ignition coils plug four of the wires from the harness back to the coils and the other four wires from the harness to the four wires that were unplugged from the coils. Than just attach the remaining two wires from the box to the battery or to the fuse box.

otakar wrote:

Why is it raining on a day i want to do this?

May have to implement Plan B.



Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

otakar wrote:

Why is it raining on a day i want to do this?

May have to implement Plan B.

Good Fortune!

Yea, that would be Good Fortune. More than I could hope for.

Did you get it tested and working?

Not yet, but I will have time tomorrow. I will post my results.

Just picked up another MSD MC-1 Ignition box a few days ago. This one had the wires cut between the box and the plug for some reason, but did come with the adapter harness. All of my speculations about the wiring system was confirmed. Considering that the replacement MC-3 for this box is $550 now, I think I got a good deal. I mounted the first box the other day, and the first thing I noticed was that the bike fired on the second tick-over in 28*f temperature. Where before it would take about 10 turns at that temp. Also I noticed that my "rich Condition" between 2k-3k is no longer noticeable during acceleration. I seam to have a LOT more power in some RPM bands, most likely where the bike is running rich. I think I will pick up and restore as many of these MC-1 and MC-2 units as I can find at a good deal. It will be interesting to see if my fuel efficiency goes up, which it should. I get 40.5MPG on the bike now with all the Hi performance mods I did and that is about 45/55- Highway/City riding. If I get more efficient burn, that should give me more power and better response. Therefore lower throttle settings while riding.

Cool. Are you going to play around with the plug gaps some more? You're running those Hot U's ND plugs, right?
Maybe go back to those forum posts at MSD and add your harness/ adapter wiring in a drawing for the guy's with questions still. That is if you haven't already.
That harness you made up looked real nice.

Yes I am running the ND (Denso) hot-U plugs but not the new exotic metal ones. Just the original copper core ones. I find that they are better for the bikes than the newer plugs. This new ignition is going to burn threw plugs I suspect, with the estimated 90-100kV spark. I am at a .060" (1.5mm) gap now and may go to .080" (2.0mm) gap. It starts to get hard to open the electrodes up that much. It's a bitch to open them up to 60-thou and keep the electrode centered and straight.

Glad you got it working. Sounds like you got a deal and then some.

The actual voltage at the plugs will be determined by the gap opening and how easily the air/fuel ionizes in the gap. By opening the gap, the current will be reduced, so that will actually reduce the wear on the plugs (compared to having smaller gap with the same ignition system).

The extra wear will come from having more current in the new system and having more sparks per revolution (at lower RPMs) than the stock system. But plug sacrifice is worth it if you're getting that much more power or smoother power.

What compression ratio is this motor?

I'm at about 11:1 compression. Might a skoush higher. Plus I am still using the 2.2 Ohm coils. MSD recommends 1.5 Ohm and I am going to install 0.7 Ohm. They push the 1.5 Ohm because that is what they sell. I was told straight out by them "the lower the resistance the better".