KZ Simple Wiring Help

Thanks man!! Looks Great. The Old Salt is sending me that Rectifier tomorrow..... So Much for a weekend ride
Its cool. Ive still never gotten to ride this damn thing.
next week.....

A little know bit of unknown information about the Japanese wiring on these older bikes it that untinned (solder coated) wires are used due to greater flexibility.

If a tinned wire is used in a place where bending and flexing occur, the wire will quickly fail due to metal fatigue as it will be stiffer.

Tinned wires resist corrosion better than untinned, but some thinking is needed when figuring out what gauge(due to current needs or AMPS)and whether or not movement will be required.

I like using wire with insulation rated at 105 C, it's pricey, but the wire will last a long time versus wire from the local auto supply store usually rated at 80 C or lower.

I bought a 78 KZ 650 B (I think it is a the wiring was re done when someone did some work on the bike and did not solder or seal any of the wiring. The bike has been in the pacific northwest long enough to completely rot the harness. I redid the harness, but I hav a key-off draw that kills the battery, and the battery doesn't seem to charge much from riding. The turn signal lights do not blink and the starter also does not work. Can these cause the draw? Also there are is a seemingly extra battery cable. When I got the bike, I think it was hooked to the positive, but I can't remember. The bike has been changed to an electronic ignition, and I have replaced the reg/rec. Any help chasing this problem would be great. I am tired of charging my bike.

That should say (I think it is a "B")

Use this procedure for electrical troubleshooting:

The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!


Here is the most basic method I know(Taken from www.kzrider.com by member Patton)

1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.

2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one.

3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.

4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.

5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go off/stop buzzing.

6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).

7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.

8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.

9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).

10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.

11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.

12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.

Ok, So heres what Old Salt Sent Me. It doesnt Have a Brown Wire. Other Than that Im Pretty comfortable with the diagram....Good job!
Is the brown wire a big deal?

That looks about right. I hope it works.

I'll update the diagram.
.

this is the one.

thanks.

see if one of these one works using on my 82 kz 1100 d1

I was ginin this one for my kz 1100 was tolf it was used on a kz750 also