Starter button?

Hi, my bike does not start anymore. At Times before I would have to wiggle the key or the starter button to get it to start. It rained pretty hard the other day and the next day when I went to start it it would not start. I turn the key the lights come on I press the button and it does nothing. I can jump the solenoid and it will start.

It there a way to trouble shoot the key ignition and starter button? Is there a way to bypass the starter button?

Thanks

I'd open up the right handlebar switch pod looking for corrosion or broken wires. The run/stop and start switches are there.

The next place to inspect would be inside the headlight housing as a majority of the bike's electrical connectors mate with the ones from the main harness.

Why WD-40 Should Not Be Used On Motorcycle Electrical Items.

For many years, I was proponent of the use of WD-40 on fuse clips, fuses, switches and connectors. After hearing of other peoples experience with intermittent and sporadic activity, I shrugged it off as maybe they did something wrong in the application of the product.

It wasn’t until the time I rode my 1982 GPz1100 B2 model to downtown San Diego that I encountered the problems others had gone through.

After concluding my business downtown, I walked to where my bike was parked, turned the key to unlock the forks, and prepared to start the engine. The key was in the “On” position, yet I had no lights in the dash panel, the fuel pump was not running(I have FI), and the horn and tail light were not working.

Stumped as to why nothing electrical was happening, I remember my earlier conversations about how WD-40 will over time become a non-conductor(more like an insulator). I had some pieces of 400 and 600 grit sandpaper in my tool kit and with them was able to scratch away the coating from the WD-40 on the fuses and clips.

After removing the insulating film, the bike started and ran like it should. Since that time, I’ve told people about the problem with WD-40. If you must use a contact cleaner, I recommend getting some “De-oxit” from Radio Shack Stores or any good electronic supply store. www.deoxit.com is their website.

The Switch at the clutch lock out can cause this also, at clutch lever. Aren't there some bikes with a side stand switch as well?

I believe on his bike and like mine, the side stand switch turns on a flashing light as a warning. It's not until some time later Kawasaki created the interlocking switches that require a certain procedure to start the bike and then be able to ride away.

Just out of curiosity,,, DVM voltage measurement at starter switch to starter solenoid... +12Vdc(+) getting switched?

If so, check solenoid/starter terminals... Clean, non oxidized, good ground etc....

Just a thought....

Help. I switched out the key ignition with a new one no luck. I switched out the solenoid and nothing. The handle bar run switch looks okay inside. When I press the button nothing happens, when I turn the switch to off I can hear a click in the solenoid.

Not sure what to do now to get it to start. It will start if I jump the solenoid.

I checked the clutch lock out and that was not it.

According to shop manual possibilities are:clutch lever not pulled,starter motor damaged,battery voltage low,relay not operating,starter button not contacting,wiring open or shorted,ignition switch damaged,engine stop switch damaged,engine stop switch in "OFF" position,fuse blown,starter lock out switch damaged.Good luck.bj

I'd check all the battery connections as they need to be clean and tight for maximum current flow. Also the one going to the starter motor.

Look at the Negative(-)terminal connection going to the engine mounting bolt too, as this gets overlooked when troubleshooting.

I've been having the same problem with my starter button. I took apart the right hand switch cover to find a spring-loaded (looks like a brass) pin. The pin looks like it gets worn out in the middle of the pin over time and (being too short) will not make the required contact. My proposed plan to fix this condition is to remove the pin from the small housing and either turn another one on the lathe or quick-fix the existing one by dropping some solder onto each end of the pin (to make it slightly longer.) Since my bike still starts by wiggling the button, I haven't performed this repair, but will keep you updated if I do the fix.
grant.

Old Man Rock wrote:

Just out of curiosity,,, DVM voltage measurement at starter switch to starter solenoid... +12Vdc(+) getting switched?

If so, check solenoid/starter terminals... Clean, non oxidized, good ground etc....

Just a thought....

Rock:Where have u been? Been missing ur insightful posts.bj

Grantl wrote:

Since my bike still starts by wiggling the button, I haven't performed this repair, but will keep you updated if I do the fix.
grant.

That seems about the same way mine started out a few months ago. Now nothing, I took it all a part and tried making a connection. There is power going to the wires in the button, even the black wire has power

Sure wish there was a way to bypass.

Just to clarify, the bike starts if you short the two terminals of the starter solenoid?? As in the screwdriver across the 10mm starter solenoid nuts method. Like, it cranks over then starts up and runs??

Oh, and De-oxit. What kind of chemicals are in it?? I've tried using carb cleaner and brake cleaner. They clean the brass parts up but as it turns out they gellify and lock together the plastic terminals.