Brake lt woes

ok just checked the brown, and yes, it only drops when the head lt is on. no drop when it off.so it stands to reason that the entire system is low when the head LT is on.

Yes the extra load is pulling through all of the circuitry.
Like I said I eventually re did the fuse panel on my 82, the Ignition switch feed a 3 fuse buss bar, the head light circuit and the Ignition plus 1 more was all feed off of 1 contact in the Switch. I found adding a separate circuit for the head lamp cured all of the drops. I think a lot of members would have modified their systems on bikes that are not a collectors/ museum piece. While not a great difference your Dyna coils would pull a bit more than a stock set depending on the Ohm coils you're using.
This is where the WG coil mod etc comes in, as if the brown is down, then the coil voltage will be. Changing the head lamp circuit is just a different approach, but is changing the load going through the Ignition switch, head lamp had the highest draw on my system and I would rather it fail than the spark.

i just checked the yell/ red coil wire and found the same thing. 1.3 v drop when i turn on the hd LT.
i'll just have to clean every connection until i have done them all and then see where i am at. it may be time for a second fuse, or relay.

I would do the fuse thing, a new style fuse block and reroute the circuits so head lamp/ tail is on its own, then the Ignition Brown is separate, the others are small current draws. A 4 fuse panel would be enough, don't bother with the old glass fuses get the Spade type ATC, with a good fitting cover to help keep out weather and dirt.
Shoot loudvhx a PM as he may have a diagram and parts list for such, also OMR has been there done that as well.
The bike will love the other 1.4v at the coils!

u never found your power drain. is it most likely a dirty connection? or is there something else i should be looking for? i think i have ruled out a poor ground?

Well it was not a "Power Drain" per say. I have a later system and the Brown wire is also the Regulator and Rectifier voltage sense wire. So with a drop I had a over charging Issue on 2 bikes with the same system I had almost identical readings. ! bike I went the full cleaning, testing route and got it reasonable, this bike I wanted un molested. The second I had already fixed some of the PO wiring, and needed to find out what was the best solution. Again with the testing/ cleaning and still just a bit high on charge, and a drop on Brown wire. So I decided to re do the circuit, it's all done on the back side of the fuse panel, so it looks stock, and 1 relay mounted out of the way, for the head lamp power.
I am going to source up a 6 fuse block and redo the whole thing to make it really nice, but not stock.
Resistance can be in the wires right at the connector, not just the terminals. The voltage drop across each connector and their wires can be kept to a minimum, but there will always be some on a old bike. It's when the total gets so bad that it needs repair/ or even replacement.
Your system only has 1 fuse, Kawasaki sure changed that over just a few years trying to upgrade the electrical. The stators changed along with the R/R, so if you Modify/ upgrade your wiring it will be closer to a newer version.
Sorry about the dribbling rant.:blush:

Here is the thread I had on the Brown on my bikes:http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=390375
Only if you are bored!

Perhaps simply a weak battery.

Could re-test with bike battery jumped to a known good automobile battery.
Automobile engine must NOT be running.
Bike engine may also be left not running.

Getting the same voltage drop, jumped and with headlight ON, would indicate no problem with bike battery.

If voltage drop disappears when headlight's ON, maybe just a weak bike battery.
Check fluid levels and specific gravity. Charge overnight and have battery load-tested.

Meanwhile, if not already done, would disconnect negative battery cable where it grounds to the engine.
Inspect and clean the lug and surface area on engine where lug attaches.
All to assure good connection between battery negative post and its ground onto engine.

Also assure negative battery cable's attachment at the cable post end is clean and snug.

Good Fortune!

Thanks again guys.
patton, i'll try that tonight