Brake lt woes

the switch diagram show white to brown and blue to red in the diagram. but i dont get any power to the red at the switch, but i do get power to the red at the tail. i get power to the blue at the switch when i turn on the running lt switch. i only have 1 fuse on the bike. it is the white going to the key, and the rectifier.
can u pm me your addy and i'll see if i can email u a manual with a wiring diag.

On my 82's it has, when switched to ON contact at White to Brown/ White. A contact to the Orange & orange/ White. A contact to the Brown/ Red/yellow.
This is probably different than yours.
I can PM my email to you.

OK now i have power to the red at the switch. it must have had a poor connection. the red gains power with the running lt switch. the white supplies power at 12.7 and the red receives it at 10.5. so the lose must be in the switch.

i put the meter on each of the to posts in the brake lt bulb housing, i get 10.5v on 1 (running lt) and a fluctation on the other. why would i get anything on the brake side, without depressing the break? i asume the fluctuation has to do with the brake light touble senso which is making the dash light flash?

There is a module for the brake warning, I've never had to trouble soot it. Does you manual show the location and wiring to it? Maybe unplug the module, but then it may take a jumper to complete the circuit for light function.

Mark....

Jeff at Z1 has the ignition switches, ~ $20... Plug & play Z1/KZ900 into 6 conductor ignition switch...

Chances are your switch contacts/solder joints or internals are old... Due yourself a favor, get a new ignition switch....

Same time... Possibly this red conductor has a short somewhere in the harness...

As can be reviewed in this image, the running light is a direct feed off the ignition switch RED conductor!...

To prove the theory/t-shoot... You can bypass for testing only the red conductor to the switched +12Vdc BROWN conductor... Hvae some spare 20 amp fuses just incase...

If it stays up and running/lit up then you know for sure it's the ignition switch droping the voltage.....

If you need this manual or just the wiring diagram...let me know....

EDIT: OEM Z1 Manual with this diagram....
kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_docman&...d&gid=434&Itemid=108

OMR

I replied my cell#

ok so the only issue i see is that i have 10.5v to the tail instead of 12.7. would this cause the element to fail? or should i keep looking?
OMR , did u copy that from a PDF? how?
I do have a manual.3 hard copies and PDF's

I don't know if a Constant low voltage would cause repeated failures, but if the voltage fluctuates/ spikes, Maybe. Right now Chevy has the same type of problem with there Trail Blazers, bad sockets. Is your socket and wiring corroded? Is it your Ignition switch causing the low voltage or the wiring? Or may be your still testing?
What about vibration? Is everything secure, with rubber mount at the tail light assy?

Another possibility is that moisture might be getting into the housing. I have two aftermarket "bullet" tail/brake lights on my bike that weren't sealed well from the factory. Everytime water got into the housing through the hole for the wiring the running light filament would burn out. I just sealed it up better with silicone. Come to think of it, I was out in the rain last night. Better go check if it worked!

ok, i learned something. i am dumb.:laugh:
i have 12.7v to the white power lead on the ignition switch, and when i measure the power to the running lights i have to turn the running light switch on, then i get only 10.r to the tail. ok, what i learned. when i turn on the running light the headlight comes on as well. the headlight drain is what is causing the voltage drop, not a poor connection in the switch.
so i unhooked the headlight and retested voltage to the tail, and i have no power loss.
so i can assume that the bulb blowing must be related to vibration. any other ideas?
while i had the guts torn out of the front i resided i had better replace the speedo bulbs as well. booth bulbs were were black as if they burnt out. do u think it is just coincidence that they booth went? being black makes me think of a power surge?? but they would be on the same circuit as the tack bulbs ,which are ok. could vibration breakage make them go black? i just assume that vibration would just break the element? my tail lt bulbs were not blackened?

Patton wrote:

Regarding the red dash brake bulb idiot light ---

With the brake dash bulb (idiot light), here's the way it's supposed to function:

Ignition ON with no brake applied --- dash bulb stays dark.

Apply either brake --- dash bulb glows steady during brake application. Regardless of whether the brake light is shining, or whether the rear bulb is missing altogether.

Whenever dash bulb flashes, that's a warning.
And such flashing would typically occur when just riding along normally without either brake applied, and happen to notice the flashing dash bulb.
It's flashing to warn the rider that something's wrong in the rear brake light circuit, whereby the rear brake won't shine upon application of rear brake. For whatever reason, such as for example a burnt out brake light filament in the rear bulb.
If the rear bulb is simply missing, the warning dash light is supposed to flash while neither brake is applied.

Good Fortune!

i dont get a flashing, warning, when the bulb element is out, only if i remove the bulb?

The reason for the big change in voltage when you un plug the head light is that you have taken the current draw of about 4.5 AMPs out of the circuitry. If you had good connections and wiring able to handle this the voltage drop would be minimal.

mark1122 wrote:

...dont get a flashing, warning, when the bulb element is out, only if i remove the bulb?

Flashing is warning only about functionality of brake light, not running (tail) light function.

If the rear bulb's running light filament is blown (such as riding along at night without a taillight), but the brake light comes on when brake is applied, there is no flashing warning.

If the rear bulb is removed, the flashing warning is saying the brake light won't come on when the brake is applied. Same as flashing warning when the installed rear bulb's brake light filament is blown.

The flashing warning system doesn't give a hoot about the rear running light. And only cares about functionality of the brake light.

Good Fortune!