Brown Wire Voltage on 3 Phase Reg/ Rectifier

Can some of you guys who have 1 or maybe more of these Bikes with the electric Speedo/ Tach/ Odometer 3 phase charging system do a voltage measurement and post it here please.
I am looking to do some comparing.
I need Battery Voltage across the battery posts, with Key ON, and that means your head light should be on. Then Voltage across the brown, ignition switched wire, with key still ON. If you have the Left side panel off you will see the top right connector, this will be for your R/R, this would be where I would like the reading. Key On Engine Off.
Then If you could do it again with The Engine at Idle Speed.
I believe there may be several bikes out there with a slight overcharge situation, and would like to find out if I'm right. I get almost a full volt difference at the two points, even with manipulating the feed into the circuitry, past the Ignition switch, etc.
I'll thank in advance anyone who goes to the trouble, and if I find or you find the correcting solution we can share with KZR.

I believe the brown wire from the reg/rect is the sense circuit controlling the charge voltage.

www.wgcarbs.com has mentioned a good voltage source to tap would be the running light circuit.

On most Kawasaki's the rear lighting is:

RED,running light,or tail light.
BLUE(sometimes with a RED stripe), the brake light circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

Some bike's have front running lights with a dual filiment socket and bulb, they are usually using a BLUE wire for this circuit.

My wiring is all custom on my bikes. But the concept is the same. I still go reg/rec output to battery, then battery to main fuse, then mainfuse to main switch, then brown wire feeds off main switch back to the reg/rec. The more current going through the fuse, the more drop there will be (same goes for all wires and connections. The last time I checked I had about 3/4 volt drop, but that was while running. When I get a chance, maybe today, I'll do a quick check with lights off, not running, and lights on not running.

The measurement will be more accurate with the bike not running because there won't be any ripple in the voltage then, and it will be pure DC measurements. But If we are trying to see what the actual drop is, while running, I think it needs to be running.

To get a very accurate measurement of the voltage drop on the brown wire while running, the measurement should be done from battery positive terminal to brown wire on the reg/rec. That will directly tell you what the actual drop is. (Rather than doing a subtraction... ala measuring battery voltage and measuring brwon wire to ground, and subtracting the difference.)

Also, let's not forget the ground can also have drops the same way as on the brown wire, but it has fewer spots to worry about. So another good check would be to measure voltage from ground wire on the reg/rec to the negative post of the battery. Hopefully that is right about zero volts.

Thanks, I can reroute the Brown that just goes into the R/R sure, but was trying to find out if on these particular models if it is a common problem. Also what some readings are.
As it seems that as the brown is supplied from the ignition switch, white/ black wire, which is supplied from the main fuse, which of course is from a red/ white at the Y bullet connector to the battery/ R/R. So the brown is powered at 3 fuse rail in the Fuse panel, from there it does even more. It ends up when as brown, with the splices, running most of the bike, then with the other circuits on the After Fuse panel side, a lot of the rest of it. It ends up going back to the Ign switch where it it turns to red/ yellow for the coil/ ignitor circuit. Even supplying a fresh 12v source to the white/ black, after the Ign switch, and to the brown at the fuse panel end, did not increase the voltage on the brown at the R/R. The brown seems to stay nearly 1 volt lower than Battery voltage, which of course the R/R sees and makes up this difference to charge the battery. So if Brown is 14v, then R/R output red/ white is 15v.
So once the R/R thinks the Battery is low, do to the voltage on the brown, (sense) wire, up the charge voltage goes, enough to boil a battery on a long ride, especially in hot weather.
So I am thinking of where the problem is occurring, and that maybe this has also led to some of the "Coil Mod's) out there. As since the brown powers the Ignition system, voltage is down here as well.

Yea did the ground check, this tested OK. These with all the load, electric gauges/ etc have a bigger demand on the system. So I was pondering that maybe the old wiring harness is not quite up to it any more, as it has "Step Down" in the harness. It comes off the fuse panel at one size, then drops in size around the bike. I will say 14 gauge to 16, and even 18. The AMPs measured seem low enough on the circuit, KOEO, about 7.5, that is a total for the 3 fuse bar in the panel. One thing I did notice, that while measuring at the brown @ R/R, and powering each of the two other circuits on the fuse buss bar, I had a slight feed. This tells me some where in the old girl one or more of the 28 year old parts, or connector is "Bleeding" a bit, from corrosion or maybe a diode. Once again the Storms have brought the job to a quick halt for today.

Most of us have come to the same conclusion that the coil-relay-mod, while it does address the voltage at the coil, may mask a problem of low voltage on that brown wire. That may lead to overcharging and the subsequent failures. We usually recommend fixing the underlying problems if possible, but sometimes people just need a shortcut to get it running. And in some cases the relay may re-route enough current to restore some of the voltage to the brown wire. But without any cleaning/fixing, the drops will eventually return.

Yes, on this bike everything is so unmolested, original, had been in storage, (Garaged) for all its life. I really want to be doing the bike justice with a Factory look repair. So again it is a beautiful cloud free morning, as with nearly each and every, but by noon storms are again forecast. I am going to pull the fairing so I can get into the "Bucket" and also the Tank, with the side covers off, and see if I can locate this small "Bleed" of current/ volts. Maybe unplug then clean every connector will be enough?

OK so I'll say I found 3 problems, one is the Vetter Fairing Installers Fault. The PO or shop that had "Wired" in the Vetter harness was a goof, scotch locks, probably in the kit, and the running light feed for the front was taken from the right handlebar Ignition and start switch Brown wire. So there was a slight load on the Brown that was not Factory. Of course now it is on the correct running light circuit. Then the Second problem is one most would expect, slight green corrosion starting in the main Ignition switch, a disassemble cleaning and fresh Dielectric grease fixed that. Then the third was that one connector in the Head light bucket was just dirty from those buckets not being sealed, picked up .1 Volt here, and I also had the fuse panel removed from the bike, completely cleaning all contacts, but also taking the back off and inspecting the wires and underside of the contacts for heat damage. I also ran the bike and with my RayTech thermometer tested for heat issues at various points in the fuse panel and harness.
So after a few hours of fooling around, and testing mostly for Voltage drop on the Brown wire, Verses Charging Voltage at the battery, I now have 14.6 across the Batt terminals at 4000rpm. I call it good enough, because I really want to be able to NOT chop up this beauty. If for some reason I Boil a battery, which has not happened yet, as I just checked the water level, I may consider rerouting some circuits.
On that i think I would look at redoing the buss bar in the fuse panel, on this model. Making where the Ignition switch feed white/ black coming into the buss bar gets its AMP load lightened. This would effectively raise the voltage on the brown. I would separate the three terminal buss taking the head lamp feed off, and resupplying the feed for this 1 fuse with a load relay used for head lamp applications from a Jap Car. I think there are some with the right wire colors on the harness pig tail, it could be cut out of a car at the wreckers cheap. The head lamp circuit is by far the higher AMP load on the buss bar. Why Kawasaki didn't feed the head lamp with a separate circuit in and out of the fuse panel, and Battery through Ignition switch is another debate.

Those Scotchlocks are nothing but trouble, they are not sealed againt moisture. When somebody istalls a Dyna "S" electronic ignition, I tell them to throw away this cheap splice and use solder and heatshrink tubing for a far better electrical connection.

I've read of people being under a trailer during a pouring rain troubleshooting the light and braking circuit due to these splices.The trailer wiring installer did the installation cheap and fast.

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Nice job on tracking down the Vetter install error.

Soemtimes jsut cleaning is not enough, if the outer plating is gaone on the contacts. After it's gone, cleaning will work for a little while, but usually it will corrode faster.

Yeah I agree that it would have been better to route the lighting load independently from the ignition/charging circuits. The lighting already has it's own fuse, so why put it through the main as well. There may be a reason, but I can't see it off the top of my head.