Brown Wire Voltage on 3 Phase Reg/ Rectifier

Well I can tell you that when I supplied an extra wire from the main fuse to the 3 fuse Buss bar, that has the brown, and the head lamp, and running/ tail fuses, that my voltage drop became nearly zero, brown compared to batt with KOEO. Still though i won't cut this girl up without being necessary.
But my Black 82 1000 LTD will get the mod I have described above in this thread, then I'll post up some info on it. Going to clean the Ignition switch, and connections on i first though.

Sounds good, but make sure the relay is not ridgid mounted. Or if it is, at least make sure vibration doesn't affect it. Others, and myself have had problems with vibration on the relays (cheap parts-store relays). On mine, I used relays to run the lights in order to have an automatic cancelling turn signal, but I use the actual headlights as turn signals. One headlight was going out when I revved the bike. Turned out vibration was enough to move the contacts. I then mounted the relay in a foam surround and the problem was gone.

Ok so now on the 82 KZ1000 LTD, which has the same system as the 82 1100 A2.
I've taken the white/ black that is the main switched source from the key and moved it so that it powers two circuits on the fuse panel, removing and Isolating the Blue wire which feeds the Head lamp circuit. The 3 wire buss bar has been cut, wires then re soldered to the rear of the fuse clips. Blue head light wire has now been hooked through a relay back to the fused side of the main fuse power. So I took 4.6 amps out of the Buss bar that is switched by the white/ black.
So the brown wire at the R/R connector had the voltage drop issue, nearly a volt, but now has only .27 of a volt drop. The head lamp circuit also had a voltage drop before of .54 but now is .12 of a volt.
So one has to wonder about Kawasaki not providing a separate feed through the ignition switch, or through a relay to power the head lamp circuit. This I found is the highest AMP draw, besides the starter of course, on a stock system. While wiring in a new fuse panel will be done next, it does not resolve the Ignition switch is a bit overloaded on 1 switched wire, a load relay must still be used with the original switch.
I can see why loudhvx has Custom wired his entire bike, and his input has been great along with MFolks. There are also other members which have replaced fuse panels with the later "Spade" type fuses.

Been super swamped at work, but had a couple minutes to check the brown wire and ground to the regulator.

This particular bike was rewired by hand about 10 years ago and uses some new wires and some older sub-harnesses. The fuse section was re-done with a blade type fuse as the main for everything. The wiring for the reg/rec area still retains some of the old sub-harness, so it is not new there.

Ign on, Lights off, brown wire had .16v drop (batt to reg).
Ign on, Lights on, brown wire had .31v drop (batt to reg).
Ign on, Lights off, ground wire had .04v drop (batt to reg).
Ign on, Lights on, ground wire had .30v drop (batt to reg).

The battery itself was about 12v.

Cool, and that's with all custom wiring, right. So this is good to use as comparison. If not for me then others. The charging threads are still coming at a great rate.:laugh:

Well, the wiring is pretty stripped down, but the charging area still has some older wiring. The surprising part was the ground at .3 with the lights on. I may have a couple grounds to clean up in the future. Luckily I run them all to one lug on the frame, and one lug on the engine, so not too many places to look.