KZ440 No Spark, No lights. New Solenoid & Battery

to make this short. there is no power at all no spark, no lights. it will rev with a jump but no spark. don't know if i need a transistor ignitor, new coils or a start switch. the battery has a charge and a new starter solenoid.

dont want to buy the wrong thing. First kz and bike i have ever bought

I'd look at your fuses, I suspect a 20 amp main fuse it blown. Also look at this:

Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by removing them from the clip and electrically continuity checking with either a self powered test light, or a multimeter set on OHMS can they be determined to be in good shape.

5. A physical inspection of the metal end caps for tightness will tell you if the fuse is serviceable.

6. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

7. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

8. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.

9. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:

www.waytekwire.com order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/...20%20%20%208%20FUSE/

www.rallylights.com www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=765

www.delcity.net www.delcity.net/cartviewitem?item=73805&search=y

im going to check the fuses they look good, but ill get some replacements just in case and let you know

If fuses check good, have battery fully charged and load tested followed by hydrometer test(floating balls indicating percentage of charge).

If battery is good, check wiring for corrosion at connectors and then look at ignition switch and right handlebar run/stop switch.

1.changed fuses still no power
2.New Solenoid makes noise when i press the start button but not spark.
3. this all happened when i used a screw driver on a bad solenoid to make it start.
4. wires look fine. screws on the battery are old and rusty not sure if it corrosion.
5.still no lights, still no spark.

Battery fully charged? electrical conections must be clean and tight for maximum current flow. Check the Negative(-) cable going to (Usually a engine mounting bolt) for tightness and corrosion.

dckareem wrote:

...no spark.

With ignition switch in ON position, ignition coil must be receiving battery voltage in order to produce spark.

Would measure the voltage at coil primary terminal.

Good Fortune!

i checked the ground its on there tight unless there is another one.

i cleaned the battery because it had a corrosion on the positive connector side.


Still no lights, no spark.

When you hook it up to a charger the engine revs up but still no spark or lights. just a revving noise.


I only can assume its the starter coil or transistor igniter.

Check the bunch of wires in the headlight bucket. There are lots of plugs that could have possibly came loose. Your stater turns over so that is a good sign. Follow the whole harness and check all the connections along the way

if there is no power going to the ignition coil. i can assume its a fried wire?

No, check the right switch pod as this is where the coils get the voltage. Also the run/stop switch may have corrosion on the contacts.

If no voltage there, start by looking at the ignition switch as they fail over time.