Installing new DYna Green Coils

eddyshore wrote:

How do the spark plug wires hook to the coils ? Am
I right in assuming you crimp the end of the wire enough to slide it into the coil? And does it matter which wire goes to which ? And does it matter which wire goes to which screw in terminal ? Cause I hook up one coil and tested it for spark and still got nothing .....

In concurring with MFolks, would install new Dyna spark plug wires, which already have the caps/boots affixed, and come with connector clips used at end that inserts into the coil.

Click > Dyna plug wires from Z1E

Small green wire attaches to whichever ignition coil has plug wires to inside plugs #2 and #3.
Small black wire attaches to the other ignition coil having plug wires to outside plugs #1 and #4.

The ignition coil's two primary terminals (screws) are not polarized, so it doesn't matter which terminal is used for which wire.
Red (or red/yellow) and green to "2/3" coil.
Red (or red/yellow) and black to "1/4" coil.

Good Fortune!

One note of caution here... when connecting to the Dyna Coil be sure the top terminal does not touch the mounting post and that there is a good gap in case the frame torques. :ohmy:

Don't ask how I found this out. :whistle:

I used Heat Shrink tubing to insulate the post which you can see in the picture below. Other members have replaced the metal post with a length of Nylon Tube/Pipe, which I think is a much better solution.



I chose to connect the + Battery to the top terminal and the ground to the bottom terminal but it does not matter. As mention earlier by others, there is no polarity to Ignition Coil connections.

Best of success,
Bill

Hi there.

Can you clarify what you mean by insulation the cold from the frame? I have used metal spacers to get the coils to clear the frame spine but are you saying this is a no go?

And yes I know this is a 5-year old lol - thread but I didn't want to create a new one!

I just moved the bolt away from the connector. Both bolts don't fit in the holes but they aren't too close ether. Had to make a bracket for the other one. Mine came with yellow silicon HT leads. I don't like them. Sure they look hot but when the graphite/ silicon leads go bad, they do it RIGHT NOW. I'll be buying some solid copper leads soon.
Steve

by royalratch: Can you clarify what you mean by insulation the cold from the frame? I have used metal spacers to get the coils to clear the frame spine but are you saying this is a no go? ....

I guess you meant to type post, instead of cold?
You don't want any part of the electrical terminals where the wires attach to touch the mounting posts, mounting brackets or the frame. Even if nothing is touching, you might want to add some insulation as a precaution, in case the coils move from vibration or something.

Yeh its clear that the supply terminal should not touch - just looks like from the image above that the mounting spacers shouldn't touch, which is not the case.

Yes, upon close inspection, (and in the photo), there appears to be plenty of clearance between the post and the screw head, but in practice, things seem to have a magical way of moving around just enough to be a problem. The screw can back out, or the post can loosen and move, or just plain vibration. Remember, while running, there will be spikes in upwards of 400v to 600v on the screw terminal for the ignition connection.