Ignition switch key

:woohoo: Hello thx patton yes I did download a wiring digram last week ....helped alot ....but today I think I got it..... pulled the ignition switch apart and seems the little springs pushing the tabs to make contact had worn a bit so streched them and now have continuity between wire connections...will plug it in tommorow for the big test.....yayyyy....:silly: :blink: :S

wannaby wrote:

mmmmm...guess I am giving myself help ...so anyways if anybody is interested today I unhooked the ignition switch plug and jumpered a couple wires and got power to my guages which tells me its inside the ignition switch so gonna tear into it at work tonight ....but hate those plastic sealed units hope I dont bust anything...oh ya gonna check all the wires from back of ignition to plug end too....getting there slowly.....ill let you know...Den

I got a new switch from Z1 for about $12.

I Looked at all the swithces on zi they look generic didnt see my switch.....If you can show me my exact switch for 12 bucks ill buy it but then we have shipping costs to canada....shoot I paid about 30 bucks just to get a key matched for this ignition....

wannaby wrote:

:woohoo: Hello thx patton yes I did download a wiring digram last week ....helped alot ....but today I think I got it..... pulled the ignition switch apart and seems the little springs pushing the tabs to make contact had worn a bit so streched them and now have continuity between wire connections...will plug it in tommorow for the big test.....yayyyy....:silly: :blink: :S

....well that wasnt it got power coming out of switch now but problem seems to be rectifier or igniter switch no pwer to brown wire comming out of rectifier wiring diagram shows brown wire from rectifier powers lights on guage cluster ...any way to test rectifier????will check online.....:S

O.K.tryed this from dans motorcycle page.



Rectifier. When a coil produces electricity, it sends it out in plus or minus waves. The battery can only charge on one of these waves. A rectifier has silicon diodes that only allow half the wave to get through. Back in the 60s and 70s a lot of the little bikes had these single wave rectifiers. Now most bikes have full wave rectifiers that have four diodes. All this rectifies the AC current to DC to charge the battery. To test the rectifier, hook up the ohmmeter leads to one of the wires and to the ground (mounting) stud. Note the reading you get. Now reverse the leads from the ohmmeter and note the reading again. The exact reading is not all that important, but there should be a big difference between the two if the diode is working right. Test each of the wires this way. If any wire is very close in the two readings then the diode is leaking and no good. If there is no continuity, then the diode is shorted out and no good. Be careful not to turn the bolt holding all the diodes together. This can short them out. It is possible to test the rectifier with a circuit tester by adding a D flashlight battery in line with the circuit tester. You want to see the light, light in one direction and not in the other. If all of a sudden you start blowing the main fuse, it's possible one of your rectifier diodes has failed, letting current, from the battery flow back to ground.

Thing is I didnt get any continuity from any wires does that mean the rectifier is shot...???:blink:

Generator produces and furnishes alternating current to the rectifier, which converts the ac to Direct Current needed by the battery (and bike's electrical system). DC from rectifier goes to the regulator, which keeps charging voltage to the battery at the correct level.

The bike's ignition system and chassis electrics such as lights, etc., draw from the battery.

Engine should start and run with a good fully charged battery, and without any charging system components whatever. And continue running just fine until the battery runs down.

In other words, the generator (aka stator aka alternator), rectifier and regulator, (i.e., collectively known as the "charging system") keep the battery charged. That's all the charging system does. Just keeps the battery charged.

With key inserted into the ignition switch and turned one click clockwise to normal bike running position, there should then be battery+ voltage in a red/yellow wire from the ignition switch to the Off-Run-Off switch (aka "Kill Switch").

From the Kill Switch (in RUN position) a red wire carries the battery+ voltage to the ignition coils.

An ignition coil receives battery+ voltage through its primary winding. While grounded, the coil is charging. When ungrounded, the coil fires through its secondary loop which includes the two spark plugs and plug wires attached to the coil.

The electronic ignition pick-up coils and igniter serve to ground and unground the coil primary windings (same as with points closing and opening).

For test purposes, the ignition coils may be powered with a hot wire direct from the positive battery terminal (instead of the red wire from Kill Switch). But don't leave such hot wire connected while the engine isn't running.

Good Fortune!

With ignition switch ON, should be getting full battery+ voltage to coil primary terminals.

Don't forget to assure clean snug connections for cables at battery terminals.

Would also assure integrity of ground connection where negative battery attaches to rear of engine.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

Generator produces and furnishes alternating current to the rectifier, which converts the ac to Direct Current needed by the battery (and bike's electrical system). DC from rectifier goes to the regulator, which keeps charging voltage to the battery at the correct level.

The bike's ignition system and chassis electrics such as lights, etc., draw from the battery.

Engine should start and run with a good fully charged battery, and without any charging system components whatever. And continue running just fine until the battery runs down.

In other words, the generator (aka stator aka alternator), rectifier and regulator, (i.e., collectively known as the "charging system") keep the battery charged. That's all the charging system does. Just keeps the battery charged.

With key inserted into the ignition switch and turned one click clockwise to normal bike running position, there should then be battery+ voltage in a red/yellow wire from the ignition switch to the Off-Run-Off switch (aka "Kill Switch").

From the Kill Switch (in RUN position) a red wire carries the battery+ voltage to the ignition coils.

An ignition coil receives battery+ voltage through its primary winding. While grounded, the coil is charging. When ungrounded, the coil fires through its secondary loop which includes the two spark plugs and plug wires attached to the coil.

The electronic ignition pick-up coils and igniter serve to ground and unground the coil primary windings (same as with points closing and opening).

For test purposes, the ignition coils may be powered with a hot wire direct from the positive battery terminal (instead of the red wire from Kill Switch). But don't leave such hot wire connected while the engine isn't running.

Good Fortune!

mmm...thx patton... problem no power at ignition switch yellow/red wire....also no power to brown wire at ignition switch wich powers cluster lamps.power to all other wires on ignition.Had ignition all apart streched springs should be getting good contact at switch ...

Seems like brown wire comming out of reg/rectifier is culpret wich goes to cluster,ignition,rear taillamps,fuel warning,hornand fourth fuse no power .....so can it be rectifier bike is not running does not run...

:laugh: :silly: SUCCESS!!!!!!! yaaayyyyy....so anybody care to guess what the problem was ....or should I tell you.....hahahah....Den

mmm...guess nobody cares...eh.Oh well working on the carbs now.they need a major cleaning guess ill swithch to the engine catagory....

Well gave you guys long enough to post your guess but guess ya dont care for ill keep it to myself:unsure: ...kidding...ill spill the beans ...so after all that back and forth thinking it was ignition switch pulling it apart checking everything ...then to rectifier pulling battery box to get at it...so it ends up being one of the wiring plug connecters on the left under the side cover where all the wires connect had power on the black and white wire from the ignition switch followed it down to the connecter still had power checked the other side of the connecter and voila no power paydirt....cool pulled connecter apart cleaned prongs wih sandpaper and all good .....so all that advice from the guys here was right check all connections and clean first.thanks again guys...Den