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Dyna Trouble shooting
- eddiem
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- KZR FLAG RELAY CARRIER #63
While the test light is hooked up there is a very and I mean very faint light and its on all the time but that's it.
Reading the manual it tells about the sensor and rotor having a gap range of .025 to .045 so I checked that and all I have is a .035 gauge and its very loose.
I had the older system with the little box on this bike and it worked great.
1976 Kz900
1978 Kz1000
1978 Z1r
1982 Kz1100 A2
1975 Z1b-900
1975 Z1b-900
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- Patton
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This to assure full battery voltage being supplied to Dyna-S when ignition switch is ON.
If using Dyna green 3 ohm coils, would also assure neither primary terminal bolt head is touching the coil mounting spacer.
And also assure the Dyna-S rotor is installed correctly and not 180 degrees off.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- eddiem
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I had the problem with the screw rubbing the mount and blowing fuses a while back I fixed that but I am going to double check it.
If I have the rotor off 180 degrees will I still get the light to lite up? even if its off?
does the gap on the sensor and rotor sound to wide?
1976 Kz900
1978 Kz1000
1978 Z1r
1982 Kz1100 A2
1975 Z1b-900
1975 Z1b-900
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- Patton
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I just put in a DS2-1, when I did the static timing I don't get the test light to lite up I double checked but still no light.
While the test light is hooked up there is a very and I mean very faint light and its on all the time but that's it.
Reading the manual it tells about the sensor and rotor having a gap range of .025 to .045 so I checked that and all I have is a .035 gauge and its very loose.
I had the older system with the little box on this bike and it worked great.
Have never needed to use static timing for Dyna-S.
Just install with backing plate in center of slots, and use timing light with engine running to fine tune the timing, by assuring F mark aligns with case mark at idle rpm.
Advancer unit should take it from there as MaKaw intended.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- Patton
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I did not use the connector they supply I have it plugged in.
I had the problem with the screw rubbing the mount and blowing fuses a while back I fixed that but I am going to double check it.
If I have the rotor off 180 degrees will I still get the light to lite up? even if its off?
does the gap on the sensor and rotor sound to wide?
With engine not running, would assure magnet embedded in rotor is at 9 o'clock position when F mark for #1/4 aligns with case mark. Use 17mm fake nut to hand turn the crankshaft. This will confirm rotor isn't installed 180 degrees off.
And further assure that black wire from left Dyna-S module runs to primary wiring terminal of whichever ignition coil is firing outside spark plugs #1 and #4.
And that green wire from right Dyna-S module runs to primary wiring terminal of whichever ignition coil is firing inside spark plugs #2 and #3.
I don't yet suspect the clearance between rotor and module to be an issue.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- Patton
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I did not use the connector they supply I have it plugged in....
If not already done, would assure the harness connector that Dyna-S red wire is plugged into does in fact provide full switched battery voltage.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- Patton
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The test light, however rigged, is to indicate when the rotor's embedded magnet aligns with the Dyna-S module, which alignment ungrounds the coil primary winding to thereby fire the coil.
Engine should crank up and run with Dyna-S backing plate installed in the center slots position. I have always gone from there straight to dynamic timing with engine running, without doing any static timing.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- eddiem
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I checked power at the sensors and power is there
I put the plate on center as you said, it cranks over and nothing no fire, nothing at all
1976 Kz900
1978 Kz1000
1978 Z1r
1982 Kz1100 A2
1975 Z1b-900
1975 Z1b-900
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- Patton
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I check the volts at the connection its at 12v
I checked power at the sensors and power is there
I put the plate on center as you said, it cranks over and nothing no fire, nothing at all
Would assure that battery voltage is reaching coil primary terminals when ignition switch is ON.
Also remove spark plug (hold base against engine head) to see whether the plug is firing when engine is being cranked over.
With switch ON, must have battery voltage to coils. Voltage reaching coil primary terminal runs through coil primary winding and exits the other coil terminal where it then runs to ground through the Dyna-S module.
While grounded through the Dyna-S module, the coil is "charging."
When the Dyna-S rotor embedded magnet aligns with the Dyna-S module, this is supposed to unground the coil primary winding which causes the coil to fire through its secondary loop (formed by the plug wires, caps, plugs and engine head).
Perhaps during installation of the Dyna-S, the dual connector (from the wiring harness) was disturbed which provides battery voltage to wires running from the dual connector to the ignition coils. Red/yellow wire from harness to dual connector. Red/yellow wire from dual connector to each coil.
This would apply to replacing points with Dyna-S. Different wiring where replacing Kawasaki electronic ignition with Dyna-S. But regardless, battery voltage must be supplied to coil primaries when ignition switch is ON.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- eddiem
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- KZR FLAG RELAY CARRIER #63
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1976 Kz900
1978 Kz1000
1978 Z1r
1982 Kz1100 A2
1975 Z1b-900
1975 Z1b-900
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- Motor Head
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- FIX UP YOUR BIKE RIGHT AND CHEAP
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1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
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- eddiem
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my other post was wrong the gap should be between .025 to .040 I had it down as .045
1976 Kz900
1978 Kz1000
1978 Z1r
1982 Kz1100 A2
1975 Z1b-900
1975 Z1b-900
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